Search results for query: Cable route

I thus presume I am back to first plan. Either- A) run off starter battery with supplied live fuse kit (which does has low voltage protection) B) find a way to run off leisure Both solutions require me to route rear camera cable though driver side cupboards or above sliding door void. I...

The wiring diagram explains what the big relay is for then, your 12v water heater :thumbsup: So from the documents you'd want to tap off Fuse 4 - just keep in mind if you make a Y cable the arm that needs connect the 12v socket needs to be similar sized cable to that installed as that's fused...

@Chris1983 Have a look through this thread Thread 'Hillside Birchover' Hillside Birchover Might give you some more ideas of where you can route your cables. Plenty of photos throughout the thread. You can gain access to the rear of the wiring in the back cupboard: 4 screws and the left...

Hi so which route did you go down ?

I was attempting to route the cable for my DC to DC charger this afternoon. I planned to use the lower grommet behind the battery but it appears it is already occupied by an unknown wire. The wire comes from below the headlight, along the wing and it enters the the cab on the passanger side. It...

I think many do if they are also running a 12v charge feed as it's easy to route both at once so long as there is space. There are a list of alternative points in this thread: https://www.t6forum.com/threads/split-charge-cabling-sunroof-drain-pipe-grommet-issue.41261/

Evening to the collective. Just a quick question. And yes I have searched Those of you with split charging and EHU under the bonnet, did you use the same hole through the passenger side grommet? I'm about to run my EHU hook up into the drivers side base but wanted to check if there was...

Photo dump inbound. Working from rear do I assume I would need to drill a hole into plastic around rear wiper housing? I have also pulled rubbed off tailgate and shone a torche from a popped out spot light and can just about detect the light. So there is a tortuous route through. Uncertain I...

i actually ran it underneath the van using these two grommets, encasing the cables in conduit. This allows future cables to be ran between the two without needing the remove bases and lift the floor, as well as removing the worry that constant footfall will cause any wiring damage. That being...

Thanks @Ads_Essex ours too is a euro5, so that may work well. I was planning on lifting the front mat and routing through the bulkhead grommet, but perhaps don’t need to if what you’re saying is an option. I presume you then routed cabling to and from the driver and passenger side beneath the...

...tends to be more factory electrics under the passenger seat so if the drivers seat is free that can be easier to retro fit, especially if choosing a larger battery. There are cable routes to both seats from the front and across between the two so you can be pretty flexible where you put things.

For me… my LB us under the drivers seat, as mine is a camper and I wanted to be able to get to the camper electrics easily and so I installed them underneath the pax seat (otherwise the furniture is in the way). There is one large (and perhaps a smaller) grommet / bung underneath both seat...

Hi Folk, I’ll shortly be heading down the leisure battery route, to enable diesel heater, lights and additional rear sockets etc. I see most people mount the battery under the drivers seat. Is there a main reason for this? We’ve got a captain seat up front, and I’m looking at the possible...

So an update. I have now got the cable 3/4 of the way down the passenger side where the pop top wiring routes run. Just got to get from the rear light position to the flexible duct on the tailgate that is todays job. For info I ended up using 1.5mm lighting cable stripped to individual cables...

Why not route the cable under the van and pop up to go into a door?

I’ve had a search and can’t find any info on the best route in a van that’s fully converted with the kitchen, high kitchen units and pop top. I’d rather get some advice before I start removing panels etc. I don’t know whether to go up or down with it. It’s a LWB with barn doors. Anyone done...

H7s with uprated bulbs are the most cost effective route, have you read the "H4 to H7 upgrade" thread? Philips Pro bulbs were the best lifespan that I could find.

I know this is an old thread but it is still relevant today. I have a few thoughts on this whole dim H4 headlight problem. My night vision is not the best so I need to get this sorted - no carrot comments please! In reply to Mooncats post - Voltage across the lamp is all we are interested in as...

Thanks for all that roadtripper looks like I was on the right wavelength with my initial solar mod. Should Be enough space on the terminal for a second from memory there about 20mm between terminals. Makes life a lot easier, although still have the battery temp probe to route tempting as it is...

Crownfield Lithium Iron phosphate cornflakes guaranteed to give you a buzz in the morning :rolleyes: I probably stole the edging idea here, so no kudos for me, mind it's nice being a tiny cog in a wheel of help;)