12v socket overload - help

[huw169]

Hi All.
I'm hoping that you guys can help shed some light on my issue.

I have a 3 way portable fridge (Dometic RC2100) which I use on the 3 pin house socket for chilling and loading, then on the 12v cigarette lighter socket for the journey, then obvs back on to elec or gas when camping. The 240v and gas works great.

The 12 not so great. The connector gets chuffin hot.
Last year I fried the 12v socket on passenger side behind sliding door. If I put a new fuse in it pops immediately, so probably melted wires and have a short now. (On list to fix)
I bought a cheap 12v adapter from Lidl for BOUT £2 that also had 2 usb ports so we could run it from the dash as a trial. That lasted about a couple of hours and the inside of the socket is all melted.
So I thought it must be the cheap lidl socket. So I thought I'd get technical and look at the fridge spec first.
Fridge has a maximum draw of 85W. So I looked for an adapter with greater than 85W.
I found one with 130W capability. Winner!
Nope! Lasted an hour with fridge and 2 iphones. No way that would be more than 130W. The whole thing has distorted and it took out my dash socket. (Might be the fuse as not looked yet - any tips on where the fuse is for the socket just to left of the gear lever?)

I'm wondering if my fridge is dying and drawing too much power on 12v element? Is that even possible?
Any tips from you electrical guys on how I diagnose the fridge before I fix the van socket supplies?

Many thanks

 

[TallPaul_S]

You shouldn't really be using a 12v socket for anything over 5-8a for a long period of time, as you've found out, they get very hot. If you're using it when driving too, it can also come loose and cause a bad connection generating more heat.

 

[huw169]

Cheers. 7 amps at full draw.
Maybe i should put in a special 2 pin connector run directly from the battery with a relay triggered off the ignition.
Thanks

 

[Matt-T68]

I have changed one of my 12v leisure sockets for a 3 pin plug. Don't have the dreaded heat issue and it doesn't shake loose when driving. Fused from the battery and I've put an inline fuse on the fridge cable. Not had an issue since. Mine is off the leisure battery.

 

[Salty Spuds]

Hi All.
I'm hoping that you guys can help shed some light on my issue.

I have a 3 way portable fridge (Dometic RC2100) which I use on the 3 pin house socket for chilling and loading, then on the 12v cigarette lighter socket for the journey, then obvs back on to elec or gas when camping. The 240v and gas works great.

The 12 not so great. The connector gets chuffin hot.
Last year I fried the 12v socket on passenger side behind sliding door. If I put a new fuse in it pops immediately, so probably melted wires and have a short now. (On list to fix)
I bought a cheap 12v adapter from Lidl for BOUT £2 that also had 2 usb ports so we could run it from the dash as a trial. That lasted about a couple of hours and the inside of the socket is all melted.
So I thought it must be the cheap lidl socket. So I thought I'd get technical and look at the fridge spec first.
Fridge has a maximum draw of 85W. So I looked for an adapter with greater than 85W.
I found one with 130W capability. Winner!
Nope! Lasted an hour with fridge and 2 iphones. No way that would be more than 130W. The whole thing has distorted and it took out my dash socket. (Might be the fuse as not looked yet - any tips on where the fuse is for the socket just to left of the gear lever?)

I'm wondering if my fridge is dying and drawing too much power on 12v element? Is that even possible?
Any tips from you electrical guys on how I diagnose the fridge before I fix the van socket supplies?

Many thanks

you have discovered the limitations of a system that was designed to deliver 6A for 10-20 seconds, and then the world decided to plug gadgets into it that draw maximum current indefinitely. You can get a 16A Hella DIN socket that will fit, but the problem just moves, as the vehicle wiring isn't sized to deliver that amount of current over an extended period.

 

[huw169]

you have discovered the limitations of a system that was designed to deliver 6A for 10-20 seconds, and then the world decided to plug gadgets into it that draw maximum current indefinitely. You can get a 16A Hella DIN socket that will fit, but the problem just moves, as the vehicle wiring isn't sized to deliver that amount of current over an extended period.

Yes, i figured as much.
I will install a dedicated supply and size it correctly.
Just though i was doing something odd, but seems not.
Cheers