12 volt planet do the individual parts or a kit, you need to decide where to locate your consumer unit and how many sockets you need, whether you need a mains charger in the system to charge a leisure battery and where to locate the campsite hookup socket - plenty of examples on here just play around with the search function
A lot will depend on your vehicle and how you use it in the most basic form this would get you hooked up to a campsite supply but there are many more whistles and bells you might want. I personally didn't bother with a permanent hook up, most of my van use is in the summer and I infrequently use the 230v stuff so get by just fine off the inverter/solar panel. On the rare occasion i need 230v in the van and dont want to use the inverter, i use something similar to the cable I linked
My kit purchased consists of
Renogy 50 dc to dc with Bluetooth
Renogy 1000w inverter
Renogy 100h lithium battery
12 x fuse box
I've part installed (first fix) my 12v bits using multi core 2mm flat cable..
I actually need to get someone to come out and install my kit.
Renogy 50 dc to dc with Bluetooth
Renogy 1000w inverter
Renogy 100h lithium battery
12 x fuse box
I've part installed (first fix) my 12v bits using multi core 2mm flat cable..
I actually need to get someone to come out and install my kit.
Given what you have already done if you want hook up I would run some arctic cable in conduit now, it’s not that expensive if you buy from an electrical wholesalers and then you can add the CU and sockets later. I put my consumer unit under the bonnet out of the way and used the grommet behind the battery to run the cable.
What CU did you purchase?
My general advice when wiring is buy your cable from sellers with a reputation to protect.
Copper is now very expensive so there is a lot of motivation for people to make cable with much less copper in, either by just lying about the cross sectional area or using aluminium coated in a thin layer of copper. Both are bad.
I'd avoid Facebook/Amazon/eBay unless you are sure it's an outlet of a well known seller.
Copper is now very expensive so there is a lot of motivation for people to make cable with much less copper in, either by just lying about the cross sectional area or using aluminium coated in a thin layer of copper. Both are bad.
I'd avoid Facebook/Amazon/eBay unless you are sure it's an outlet of a well known seller.
A domestic garage consumers unit will probably sort out what you want with a 30mA RCD as the incomer isolator and a couple of mcbs to isolate any 230v skts you install plus a spare way for another 230v circuit.
There's no hard and fast leisure set up as everybody tends to run different stuff in their van but in your case with the battery going under the driver's seat then your DCC50S would ideally be under there too along with a battery main isolator to separate the battery live from everything including the incoming starter battery via the DCC50S.
Due to the huge currents required b
y the inverter that is ideally located near to the leisure battery, similarly a smart charger if you install one (I've used mine just for the initial charge and not since).
The 12v accessory fuse board can go under the seat as can the various larger fuses including the VW starter battery fuse however bear in mind every time you blow a fuse you'll have to unbolt the seat to gain access so a right ballache.
Like many on here I've got solar on the roof, as mine comes from the pop top hinge point at the rear I've run that as a 6mm2 red and black all the way to the DCC50S with a 30A domestic double pole switch where the panel tails enter the van.
Thought I would randomly add my fag packet wiring diagram in the middle of the post.
There's no hard and fast leisure set up as everybody tends to run different stuff in their van but in your case with the battery going under the driver's seat then your DCC50S would ideally be under there too along with a battery main isolator to separate the battery live from everything including the incoming starter battery via the DCC50S.
Due to the huge currents required b
y the inverter that is ideally located near to the leisure battery, similarly a smart charger if you install one (I've used mine just for the initial charge and not since).The 12v accessory fuse board can go under the seat as can the various larger fuses including the VW starter battery fuse however bear in mind every time you blow a fuse you'll have to unbolt the seat to gain access so a right ballache.
Like many on here I've got solar on the roof, as mine comes from the pop top hinge point at the rear I've run that as a 6mm2 red and black all the way to the DCC50S with a 30A domestic double pole switch where the panel tails enter the van.
Thought I would randomly add my fag packet wiring diagram in the middle of the post.
This was my hookup, under the bonnet (picture a couple of posts up in linked thread). I’ve listed the RCBO and enclosure. I have a Victron 240/12 V charger to the leisure battery, and one 240V plug at the kitchen. No inverter.
www.t6forum.com
Show me your electrical system locations
Now onto planning my electrical system, planning to go for a fairly basic system, B2B charger and inverter along with 12v and 230v fuse box potentially, don't think I will bother with solar at this stage , where do.you guys install your systems? Any photos appreciated just working out best...
First fag packet drawing, this one includes the inverter. 
Then...
Vis this mess...
Then...
Vis this mess...
I had problems with a seller palming me off with CCA cable as solid copper. Something to definitely be aware of.
You can use the copper clad aluminium wire but need to use a fatter guage than you would if the cable was pure copper ie. use 25mm2 cca instead of 16mm2 copper.
I bought a couple of Vibe Car audio leads packs. The battery cables are labelled OFC stamped on the plastic and are so obviously CCA by their weight and colour when you cut them.
Isn’t it more likely to fail than OFC though.
I scrapped what I had been sent as it was totally unsuitable for my uses - CCA is not flexible like pure copper.
Aluminium has a higher resistivity than copper of roughly 60% so as a rough guide needs to be half as big again a conductor diameter compared to purely copper.
More importantly making shorter runs for the cables taking the heaviest loads will make more of a difference than discarding cca out of hand but that would only be the case if you were knowingly using cca cable and not being miss sold pure copper cable.
As for cca cable failing not sure what you mean as the fuse protecting it should be many times smaller in cross sectional area than that of the cable.
More importantly making shorter runs for the cables taking the heaviest loads will make more of a difference than discarding cca out of hand but that would only be the case if you were knowingly using cca cable and not being miss sold pure copper cable.
As for cca cable failing not sure what you mean as the fuse protecting it should be many times smaller in cross sectional area than that of the cable.
If you know nothing about electrics it might be best to get someone to put it in for you?
What do you want it to do?
What do you want it to do?
Because I would like to run the cables myself and then get it wired in.
What, not why...
What mains are you going to run?
Where do you plan on installing the consumer unit?
Where do you want the external socket to be?
What mains are you going to run?
Where do you plan on installing the consumer unit?
Where do you want the external socket to be?
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