3rd clutch and DMF but still grinding noise!! Help

J88arv

Senior Member
T6 Guru
Hi all.

I’m on my third clutch and flywheel this time fitted by a head tech for LUK yet I’m still getting a slow grinding noise when driving slow in first and also when I engage the clutch.

Any help appreciated as it’s sooo annoying
 
To be fair I’m thinking drive shaft which is causing the noise. Thoughts?
The drive shaft isn’t moving when you engage the clutch.
Have you changed the gear oil? Maybe worth doing just to check for metallic debris.
 
The drive shaft isn’t moving when you engage the clutch.
Have you changed the gear oil? Maybe worth doing just to check for metallic debris.
That’s just it, the noise is now only when it’s in 1st and moving slowly
 
Can it be greased to rule out? The drive shaft that is
When the second clutch and flywheel was removed were there any signs of damage or any other visible indications that would explain the grinding noise?
 
Can it be greased to rule out? The drive shaft that is
What’s the milage?
Has the van been lowered / raised putting drive shafts out of optimum alignment (as OEM)?
Has anybody inspected the drive shafts for wear, split boots? I would think a clutch specialist changing a clutch/DMF and not finding a clutch/DMF defect would have recommended this.
If there is a grinding noise it’s too late for lubrication.
If you haven’t already, try running the van in gear with the front wheels off the ground so you can get a better idea of where the noise is coming from, either good axle stands or a lift. If not possible having somebody outside the van while you are slowly moving should enable you to locate which side.
The drive shafts can be checked to some degree with the wheel off the ground, leave in gear and check for slack in rotation and possibly end float.
A damaged CV joint will be more noisy on full lock, normally a failed joint will ‘click’.
There is no need to replace both drive shafts if only one is at fault.
There are some cheap re-conditioned drive shafts / CV joints available on the market. I’ve always used these and it’s a very mixed bag when it comes to quality, not a big issue if you are providing the labour but paying a garage labour rates it might be better to go OEM and pay a bit more.
 
When the second clutch and flywheel was removed were there any signs of damage or any other visible indications that would explain the grinding noise?
No signs at all

What’s the milage?
Has the van been lowered / raised putting drive shafts out of optimum alignment (as OEM)?
Has anybody inspected the drive shafts for wear, split boots? I would think a clutch specialist changing a clutch/DMF and not finding a clutch/DMF defect would have recommended this.
If there is a grinding noise it’s too late for lubrication.
If you haven’t already, try running the van in gear with the front wheels off the ground so you can get a better idea of where the noise is coming from, either good axle stands or a lift. If not possible having somebody outside the van while you are slowly moving should enable you to locate which side.
The drive shafts can be checked to some degree with the wheel off the ground, leave in gear and check for slack in rotation and possibly end float.
A damaged CV joint will be more noisy on full lock, normally a failed joint will ‘click’.
There is no need to replace both drive shafts if only one is at fault.
There are some cheap re-conditioned drive shafts / CV joints available on the market. I’ve always used these and it’s a very mixed bag when it comes to quality, not a big issue if you are providing the labour but paying a garage labour rates it might be better to go OEM and pay a bit more.
Will take a butchers later and run whilst the wife drives lol
 
What’s the milage?
Has the van been lowered / raised putting drive shafts out of optimum alignment (as OEM)?
Has anybody inspected the drive shafts for wear, split boots? I would think a clutch specialist changing a clutch/DMF and not finding a clutch/DMF defect would have recommended this.
If there is a grinding noise it’s too late for lubrication.
If you haven’t already, try running the van in gear with the front wheels off the ground so you can get a better idea of where the noise is coming from, either good axle stands or a lift. If not possible having somebody outside the van while you are slowly moving should enable you to locate which side.
The drive shafts can be checked to some degree with the wheel off the ground, leave in gear and check for slack in rotation and possibly end float.
A damaged CV joint will be more noisy on full lock, normally a failed joint will ‘click’.
There is no need to replace both drive shafts if only one is at fault.
There are some cheap re-conditioned drive shafts / CV joints available on the market. I’ve always used these and it’s a very mixed bag when it comes to quality, not a big issue if you are providing the labour but paying a garage labour rates it might be better to go OEM and pay a bit more.
It has been lowered by @CRS Performance with the konis by 45/50mm
I’m happy to change the drive shaft/s and it’s just turned 90k
 
To be sure I understand properly, am I right in thinking:
Engine running, gearbox in neutral - no noises.
Press the clutch down - no noises.
Engage first gear, clutch still pressed down - no noises.
Let the clutch out gently, moving slowly forward, grinding noise.

Does the noise change with steering input, i.e. is it worse if you're on full lock?
Is there a safe place that you could move off then put it in neutral while travelling slowly, to see if the noise still occurs? (Possibly a car park in the evening or somewhere quiet.)
 
To be sure I understand properly, am I right in thinking:
Engine running, gearbox in neutral - no noises.
Press the clutch down - no noises.
Engage first gear, clutch still pressed down - no noises.
Let the clutch out gently, moving slowly forward, grinding noise.

Does the noise change with steering input, i.e. is it worse if you're on full lock?
Is there a safe place that you could move off then put it in neutral while travelling slowly, to see if the noise still occurs? (Possibly a car park in the evening or somewhere quiet.)
Bang on, I also get a noise when putting the clutch down whilst approaching an island and down gearing
 
Does the noise change with steering input, i.e. is it worse if you're on full lock?
Is there a safe place that you could move off then put it in neutral while travelling slowly, to see if the noise still occurs? (Possibly a car park in the evening or somewhere quiet.)
 
Alignment tool for what? If they are referring to the clutch plate, in my experience the gearbox will not go back on if not centred. If it is slightly off and the gearbox will go on, it’ll sort itself out the first time the clutch pedal is pressed.

I recently helped a friend pull a crossflow engine out due to a clutch issue. We’d only fitted the engine / box a couple of months ago after an expensive rebuild on the engine. This had all been balanced with the clutch fitted.

On disassembly I found the clutch plate had been fitted by the engine builder the wrong way around so the plate springs were clashing with the flywheel bolts. They were very apologetic and paid for a new clutch kit!

I think it is more likely to be something like this.
 
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