Amp not working properly

ALFIrE

Member
Hey guys,

A few day ago, I installed a small class D amp (Pioneer GM-D1400), behind the dash above the glovebox.
Same location as many of you have used before.

First made a fused +12v power lead from the leisure battery (underseat/California) towards dash.
bought a quadlock extension cable, so I could cut speaker wires and make a so called T cable. All connections with crimped connectors.
Speaker output radio goes directly to amp, (high level).
Speaker output amp goes back in the orginal speaker wire loom.
Negative lead taken from an original VW earth bolt behind the carpet in wheel well.
No remote taken from radio, nothing connected to amp (hig level input with auto sense).

It sound amazing with my musway speakers!
BUT
I get random pops from the speakers with radio off.
When taking key out of contact, closing doors, opening the bonnet,...
Sometimes even after a few minutes in the garage.

I monitored the amp. The power ON led goes on for a few seconds and makes a bang trough the speakers. Radio is not powered on.

I thougt I had a remote power issue, so bought a high-low converter. This one produces a remote signal, what I need to run RCA inputs to the amp instead of speakers directly from radio.
Took a +12v in the fuse box center dash with a piggyback fuseholder. Made a negative lead from other chassis bolt than the amp as a test.
Result is exactly the same, altought a tad less loud. This converter goes power on at the same occasions as the amp did.
Even worse: when starting the engine, I just get loud static, louder than the music. Unpossible this way.

This morning did a new attempt, placed the converter in the middle of the van, power and speaker cables totally away from each other.
Had the same results as before...

Somehow a turn on signal is made through interference, most probably to the speaker wires.
Just can't figure out the why or how.
On standard radio, all sounds and behaves fine...

Anyone smarter than me who can figure this out?
I cannot believe the amp and the converter are "broken", both behave the same.
Buying another amp most probably won't solve this.
Can't be a faulty power cable, tried different sources.

The weird thing is, I have another amp for the underseat sub, which behaves perfectly fine. (thank god no popping from this sub)
Takes +12 from same battery, uses underseat earth bolt, high level input through crappy cheap speaker wire...
Unfortunately, it doesn't produce a remote out (no 12v output at remote screw).
 
So the stock headunit gets a turn on signal via the canbus network. When you open a door etc it gets a wake up signal. It doesn't power up until the ignition is on but basically takes the headunit out of deep sleep mode.

The pop you hear is the radio sending an output test round the speakers there's 2 signals 1 at 6k I think iirc and 14k or something around there anyway. It's to test the speakers are connected and working.

You don't hear this on a stock setup as it's at very low amplitude, now you have amplified this signal you can hear it.

The sub you won't hear it on as the frequency it tests at is below its crossover threshold and therefore doesn't get amplified.
 
My Quadlock was a cheap one from uncle Alie. Maybe something is wrong there?

The white connector is canbus. I see that 1 pin is for 'wake up'. Maybe worth trying cutting this and see what happens?
 
Put a relay inline on the leisure battery feed to the amp triggered by the ignition on feed so that the amp only gets power when the key is in the ignition?
 
Have you also used the USS4 to solve this?
When I wired the USS4 to the speakers without any 12v then the pop/thump was reduced by quite a bit but not eliminated entirely.
Wiring it up to 12v wont solve this problem either because the delay is only for power up and the pop/bump happens on power down.

The best solution I found was to insert a DSP that has the ability to power on/off the amp via remote feed when audio is detected from the HU.
My DSP is set to power on the amp via remote trigger immediately once audio from the HU is detected and to power down the amp in 8 seconds once no audio is detected form the HU.
In this scenario when you turn off the van the HU powers down, the amp powers off 8 seconds later before the canbus powers down. No more pop/bump.
The same happens when you open doors. The amp may power on because the canbus sends the speaker test signal but will then power down in 8 seconds before the canbus powers down which causes the pop/bump.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks, more money to invest

Just hoping this won't give the static since it uses the cinch out like the hi-lo adapter.
 
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