Battery powered LED light.

mopardave

150 Kombi Manual
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Right ladies and gents......can anyone with electrical knowledge help me? My best mate turns 60 this coming March. I want to make him something a bit different to mark a long standing friendship and working relationship. He loves messing about making music on his computer so I thought I'd make him a headphone stand.....but with a little difference. I want to put a red led on it to give it an "on air" feel. I'd like it to be switchable with maybe an old fashioned toggle switch.......and possibly illuminate the base too. It'll serve no purpose.....it's just for fun and to add a little ambience to his home studio. I'm not brilliant with these things so if anyone could give me some guidance as to how to go about this and what components I'd need, that would be absolutely brilliant.
Thanks guys.......any help would be appreciated!
Dave
 
It’s the most simple electrical circuit possible - a battery, a switch and a load (the LED). Most kids teach-yourself-electronics kits will cover this within the first couple of pages.

Sourcing the electronics is pretty simple too. I’d look at Farnells, where you can buy individual components.

If you used two AA batteries in series, you’d get about 3 volts dropping to about 2.4 over time as the batteries discharge.

So you could look for a 2.6 volts dc LED:


This is a series battery holder (be sure to buy a series one or you’ll end up with 1.5v):


You’ll need to add a resistor to limit the current. 10 Ohms should work fine here. [although if there are any actual electronics people here, please do confirm, as I’m pulling on a distant memory of a module in my degree 30 years ago].

Then you just need to choose a switch.


You might want a small amount of wire, but you can get that easily from Amazon. It’s just dead thin stuff you’re after.

Joining wires together is either a case of soldering or crimping. Both require tools. Crimping is safer in that it doesn’t involve heat, but soldering is best and is a good skill to learn.

LEDs are diodes, so current needs to flow the right way through them or they won’t work. If it’s wrong, just swap the wires over.

Nothing here is powerfully enough to start a fire or electrocute yourself.

All that said, why not buy yourself one of these kits - it’s fun to learn electronics and the quality of these kits and the instructions now is amazing.


My son had this kit nailed when he was about 7 years old.
 
Right ladies and gents......can anyone with electrical knowledge help me? My best mate turns 60 this coming March. I want to make him something a bit different to mark a long standing friendship and working relationship. He loves messing about making music on his computer so I thought I'd make him a headphone stand.....but with a little difference. I want to put a red led on it to give it an "on air" feel. I'd like it to be switchable with maybe an old fashioned toggle switch.......and possibly illuminate the base too. It'll serve no purpose.....it's just for fun and to add a little ambience to his home studio. I'm not brilliant with these things so if anyone could give me some guidance as to how to go about this and what components I'd need, that would be absolutely brilliant.
Thanks guys.......any help would be appreciated!
Dave
I turn 60 in March, I'm a musician and use my pooter for making and recording music...

Looking forward to my present, although the surprise element has been blown!
 
Sasquatch.......you weren't supposed to be on here! You've always been so bloody difficult to buy for......I remember when you were hinting at some monogrammed Alpaca lined Y fronts for your 50th!! Now what am I supposed to get you ffs! :slow rofl:
 
I managed to buy one this afternoon for £26.97 too. Just add the discount code during the check-out.

It’s the most simple electrical circuit possible - a battery, a switch and a load (the LED). Most kids teach-yourself-electronics kits will cover this within the first couple of pages.

Sourcing the electronics is pretty simple too. I’d look at Farnells, where you can buy individual components.

If you used two AA batteries in series, you’d get about 3 volts dropping to about 2.4 over time as the batteries discharge.

So you could look for a 2.6 volts dc LED:


This is a series battery holder (be sure to buy a series one or you’ll end up with 1.5v):


You’ll need to add a resistor to limit the current. 10 Ohms should work fine here. [although if there are any actual electronics people here, please do confirm, as I’m pulling on a distant memory of a module in my degree 30 years ago].

Then you just need to choose a switch.


You might want a small amount of wire, but you can get that easily from Amazon. It’s just dead thin stuff you’re after.

Joining wires together is either a case of soldering or crimping. Both require tools. Crimping is safer in that it doesn’t involve heat, but soldering is best and is a good skill to learn.

LEDs are diodes, so current needs to flow the right way through them or they won’t work. If it’s wrong, just swap the wires over.

Nothing here is powerfully enough to start a fire or electrocute yourself.

All that said, why not buy yourself one of these kits - it’s fun to learn electronics and the quality of these kits and the instructions now is amazing.


My son had this kit nailed when he was about 7 years old.
I'll take a look at this stuff mate, thanks. Despite what my wife says, I'm not a complete 'tard but somehow, electrics and electronics is voodoo to me! A simple circuit is as good as it's gonna get!!
 
Where's Maplin when you need it!! I can see this is going to grow arms and legs.......an illuminated switch would be nice! Oh gawd!!!!
 
These folks I use for a lot of components (you can find them on eBay too with a smaller selection)


You can get small battery boxes if you want to run off AA, as @CJW says. If you are running off disposable batteries use 2 to give you nominal 3v (2 x 1.5v) if you are using rechargeable then use 3 to give you nominal 3.6v (3 x 1.2v)

Alternatively you could consider getting a simple small USB powerbank from Poundland and get a prewired 5v LED (with the resistor already in the lead) - you might be able to assemble that with screw/wago connectors and no soldering. The only challenge would be chopping apart a spare USB lead and identifying the +5v and 0v wires if you don't have a multimeter.

(The reason I recommend Poundland is they are cheap but generally are very good at honouring safety standards and decent enough design - unlike random eBay or Amazon sellers shipping things that failed testing and were in a skip behind the factory...)

If you want to buy your own LED then you want to current to be about 10ma to 20ma and you can calculate that using Ohms law: voltage = current X resistance or there are a ton of online calculators.

I like this one as if you click on the ? On each field they give you a list of common values and it shows the wiring and resistor colour code so it's dead easy

 
If you wanted to get really fancy you could use a long arm micro switch as part of the stand so as the headphones were lifted off the light came on:

d51c86f0-bd38-4232-8cff-5851ad3771a5_600x600.jpg


If you do I'd suggest still having a main on off switch as well.
 
If you wanted to get really fancy you could use a long arm micro switch as part of the stand so as the headphones were lifted off the light came on:

View attachment 266269


If you do I'd suggest still having a main on off switch as well.
I'm starting to froth at the mouth now gents......this is getting really good! Remember though, electrics and electronics is voodoo to me. I have to keep it simple. It serves no purpose other than it'll be a fun "gadget" for my mates amateur recording studio. I'm thinking I might make two now!! I am pretty good with wood by the way. I'm gonna regret saying that!
 
I'm terrible with the physical crafting stuff, any cases I make for projects are extremely functional.

Micro switches are way to work with though, nothing sticks out of the sides as that's how they are generally mounted - switch out the top/front and connectors out the back - so should fit into a slot routed into a wooden stand possibly with just a friction fit.
 
If you wanted to get really fancy you could use a long arm micro switch as part of the stand so as the headphones were lifted off the light came on:

View attachment 266269


If you do I'd suggest still having a main on off switch as well.
This is off a mains powered supply, right???? I was initially thinking of it being very low voltage.....I don't want to burn his house down!!
 
This is off a mains powered supply, right???? I was initially thinking of it being very low voltage.....I don't want to burn his house down!!
Nope, that switch is just rated up to being able to switch mains (they are often used as limit switches on doors or door open interlocks on microwaves etc) but it will switch low voltage DC just fine.

When choosing a switch it will list the maximum current (amps) it can safely switch and voltage - so long as you are below that then you're fine.
 
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