Connecting a fold up Renogy 200w Solar panel to my CTEK D250se

[Rollindoughnut]

Hi, I think this is fairly straightforward query. I already have a CTEK d250se fitted with my leisure battery.
I didn't want to start drilling into the pop top roof or retrofitting solar panels ( which I'd probably make a dogs dinner of anyway).
So I decided to purchase a portable Renogy 200w Solar panel with extension cable.
Now, the leisure battery is sited under my drivers seat with the CTEK mounted just forward of it.
When I opened the box on the solar panel I found that one of the crocodile clips was poorly assembled with the pin halfway out. One squeeze and it pretty much fell apart. I've raised the issue with Renogy and await a response.
In the meantime I've been thinking about I would connect it.
Using the crocodile clips to the leisure battery seems a bit unweildy. I was thinking would it be better to replace the crocodile clips with fork connectors so i Could just undo the connectors on the CTEK and silde the fork connectors in and retighten. Is there any reason why this wouldn't work or is there a better way of doing it? Thanks in advance. Chris

 

[Sackmycook]

My fitter has just done similar on my van. He put a solar/battery mppt monitor in between the Ctek and solar panel, with a long fly lead which I can.connect to my jackery panel. This sits in the passenger seat base pocket.
Sorry, not much help on how everything is connected though

 

[Dellmassive]

That's fine...

You can connect the Renogy panel direct to the CTEK unit. (Without the Renogy controller)

You can use a quick disconnect inline to make it easier to plug in and out.

 

[VanDamMan]

We started off with our mobil solar cable’s routed via the window and had tails on the Ctek to connect too…..but soon learnt our lesson ..British weather…but with help from others ….we then routed the cables to bonnet area and fitted quick connect Anderson plugs…so by changing the input solar cable connecters can safely connect under the bonnet and no nasty holes or bad weather to worry about

ps Blue plug is EHU…Red is solar

 

[RedUn]

Need to be careful of input voltage with a 200w panel and the ctek.

The cut off from memory is around 23v

 

[Skyliner33]

We started off with our mobil solar cable’s routed via the window and had tails on the Ctek to connect too…..but soon learnt our lesson ..British weather…but with help from others ….we then routed the cables to bonnet area and fitted quick connect Anderson plugs…so by changing the input solar cable connecters can safely connect under the bonnet and no nasty holes or bad weather to worry about

ps Blue plug is EHU…Red is solar
View attachment 170623

Out of interest what Anderson connectors are those, I can’t remember seeing any like that

 

[Dellmassive]

Need to be careful of input voltage with a 200w panel and the ctek.

The cut off from memory is around 23v

That's a good point @RedUn .

Re the voc 23v max on the CTEK.

Saying that Renogy normally run the the 200w as two 100w in parallel, so a VOC of around 19v maybe?.

@Rollindoughnut post a pic of the Renogy 200w spec sticker to check.

 

[Dellmassive]

Out of interest what Anderson connectors are those, I can’t remember seeing any like that

They are standard SB50 Anderson.

But red version which is keyed differently.

The different colours denote the keying.

 

[Skyliner33]

They are standard SB50 Anderson.

But red version which is keyed differently.

The different colours denote the keying.

View attachment 170657

My eyes are deceiving me then. It doesn’t look like that to me.

 

[Dellmassive]

My eyes are deceiving me then. It doesn’t look like that to me.

It's got the red water proof protection cover on.

And.

The water proof cable protection cover.


Eg...

 

[VanDamMan]

Out of interest what Anderson connectors are those, I can’t remember seeing any like that

what @Dellmassive said……. You don’t want dirty unprotected connectors …….…always use protection hence the bag

 

[Rollindoughnut]

That's a good point @RedUn .

Re the voc 23v max on the CTEK.

Saying that Renogy normally run the the 200w as two 100w in parallel, so a VOC of around 19v maybe?.

@Rollindoughnut post a pic of the Renogy 200w spec sticker to check.

Thanks for the replies everyone. Dellmassive, see image attached. Thanks

 

[Skyliner33]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Dellmassive, see image attached. ThanksView attachment 170675

The open circuit voltage on that panel is 21.6V which is below the 23V that the CTEK can handle (quoted above) so it will be fine to use.

 

[Rollindoughnut]

The open circuit voltage on that panel is 21.6V which is below the 23V that the CTEK can handle (quoted above) so it will be fine to use.

Lovely jubbly, thanks for your reply Skyliner.

 

[Rollindoughnut]

I've had a reply from Renology, they can't or won't replace the cable with the faulty croc clip, only replace the whole unit OR give me a 5% discount, but it will take a while they say. I dont really want that palava, so I intend to keep it, and accept the partial refund.
I'll then cut the crocodile clips off and replace them with ring connectors onto the CTEK. I'll tuck the excess cable into the back pocket of the drivers seat, and connect them using the extension cable out through the side door and awning to the solar panels. Thet should be tidy without too much faff connecting and disconnecting.
Does anyone see any issues with this plan?
Thanks to all
Chris.

 

[Dellmassive]

21.6 voc..

So fine, on the CTEK.

The crock clips are only from the controller.

The panel allone should have mc4 solar connectors on.... These are what needs connecting to the CTEK... You will prob need a mc4 extension cable too...

Post a pic of the rear of the whole 200w panel for more advice.

 

[Skyliner33]

I've had a reply from Renology, they can't or won't replace the cable with the faulty croc clip, only replace the whole unit OR give me a 5% discount, but it will take a while they say. I dont really want that palava, so I intend to keep it, and accept the partial refund.
I'll then cut the crocodile clips off and replace them with ring connectors onto the CTEK. I'll tuck the excess cable into the back pocket of the drivers seat, and connect them using the extension cable out through the side door and awning to the solar panels. Thet should be tidy without too much faff connecting and disconnecting.
Does anyone see any issues with this plan?
Thanks to all
Chris.

I have 2 cables coming from the MPPT (in your case CTEK) with an Anderson connector at the end. Then another Anderson connector on the end of the cables from the solar panel, I feed its through the drivers window and plug in. I have an extension cable with the Anderson at one end, for inside the van near the MPPT and MC$ connectors at the other to plug into the panel.

 

[VanDamMan]

Only problem you may have is rain water getting in via open windows or awnings which are not totally waterproof and and If you sleep in the van ..it’s the wind noise etc….we have electric doors so can’t half shut them but we didn’t want the chance the door May trap the cable…..personally it’s neater to exit the cables either under the van or via the engine bay…..but for short term it’s ok

 

[Skyliner33]

Only problem you may have is rain water getting in via open windows

Not with wind deflectors

 

[VanDamMan]

Not with wind deflectors

Your Right