Door seals from Transporter HQ. Drivers door almost impossible to shut

FB1

New Member
I've had a hunt around the forum but can't really find a solution. Fitted them exactly as per THQ guide. I'd read a few posts prior to buying them that the drivers side door would require a bit of extra force to shut it. However, the amount of force I need to use to shut the drivers door is nothing short of ridiculous. The passenger door feels absolutely perfect. I've double checked that they're on the correct part of the door by referencing lots of images and videos online.
Before I rip the seal off, I wanted to check if people have found a way to overcome the issues on the drivers door? (perhaps making perforations or small cuts in the seal, fitting in a slightly different place etc).
I'm aware that there's loads of different sellers who offer these aftermarket seals so ideally wanting to hear from people who've fitted the ones from Transporter HQ.
I'll also reach out to THQ to see what they advise too.
 
It tends to come down to either a mechanical issue (it's being squeezed) or an air pressure issue.

There are normally slam vents in the rear to relieve the air pressure but if you're a converted van they can get covered.

First quick test is to try and shut the door with the window on it or the passenger side down. If it shuts much better check the slam vents, if it doesn't make any difference try and check where the new seal may be getting in the way.
 
It tends to come down to either a mechanical issue (it's being squeezed) or an air pressure issue.

There are normally slam vents in the rear to relieve the air pressure but if you're a converted van they can get covered.

First quick test is to try and shut the door with the window on it or the passenger side down. If it shuts much better check the slam vents, if it doesn't make any difference try and check where the new seal may be getting in the way.
I forgot to mention I've tried with window open (have now edited my post to include this). With regards to checking where the seal is getting in the way it's an almost impossible task as the door is closed (or almost closed) so you can't see whats going on. I'm hoping someone has found a remedy via trial and error so that I don't end ruining a door seal unnecessarily
 
You may need to adjust slightly the striker plate on the door opening so it catches, I think I had to do that, and then maybe again once they’ve been on for a while.
 
It gets (a bit) better over time.

The seals compress a bit. I still occasionally have to re-slam my drivers door to shut it properly after installing the ‘sounds like a golf’ seals.
 
I had this problem no matter which seal I tried (although to be fair I didn’t try the oem one) and found it could only be fixed by slashing the seal in places until it closed without too much of a slam (this ended up being along most of the bottom and a little at the sides). This did reduce the “sounds like a golf” effect though. I wouldn’t want to move the striker plate as I would have thought that would effect the door alignment.
 
Or buy genuine Caravelle ones. I never had a problem closing my doors.
When I investigated this previously it appears the doors and seals are different on Californias and Caravelles?
The doors have small holes punched into them and the seals have pimples moulded on which push into the holes?
The seals don’t have adhesive foam tape to affix to the doors?
Also, the driver’s door has a square vent inserted into the bottom rear of the inner panel?
This allows the air pressure built up when closing to escape into the door cavity?

I examined a friend’s California to establish and think Caravelle doors are the same?
I bought a grille to fit into my driver’s door, but as others have said, the seal compresses over time and the ‘slamming’ issue goes.
 
I'd read a few posts prior to buying them that the drivers side door would require a bit of extra force to shut it. However, the amount of force I need to use to shut the drivers door is nothing short of ridiculous.
Stick a picture up of your driver door seal and I'll compare to mine.
 
See post #421

 
I had EXACTLY the same issue when I fitted these seals. To start with I put a small ‘relief cut’ in the drivers door adjacent to the lock and striker which helped somewhat. But… I still had to be heavy handed with the door to shut it. Two months later the adhesive tape was failing so I pulled them off. I then reapplied the seals with some heavy duty ‘3M’ tape. Also I cut down the seal and only put it on the door where it meets the B Pillar and also omitted it from the lock area. The doors now shuts perfectly by just letting them swing under their own weight and they still ‘sound like a golf’. (Very quiet and precision like). I’ll post pics later today when I arise. HTH ?
 
As promised popped out to van this morning and got a phot or two. Here’s my van. You can see where I have applied seal. Here is a link to tape I used.


Remove old tape as best you can (don’t worry too much, just loose bits). You will need to trim new tape down slightly to fit seal. (I used Stanley knife against a straight edge but scissors will do fine. )

1. No issues shutting doors.
2. Passenger door will literally shut itself when dropping off last check strap indent.
3. Drivers door needs the slightest effort on handle to close.
4. Looks OEM.
5. Sounds very ‘Golf/Limousine like’.
6. 3M tape offers a more robust installation.
7. Still helps greatly with road noise.

What’s not to like.

I think the THQ product is fine (they do great stuff) so not criticising at all, it’s just it seems to defeat the object somewhat, if you apply the seal to ‘enhance’ the feel and sound of the door on closing, then have to welly the drivers door like a 25 year old sh&£box to get it to close .

Anyhow. Hope that helps to anyone who searches. It’s just my OCD engineered solution after a bit of thought. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Cheers.

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I fitted these, as below.
I sited them exactly as per OEM California ones, which do not curve up at the bottom front.
I did not need to add slits etc or miss areas to improve closing.
I had to use a little more effort to close the drivers’ door for a few months until seal ‘bedded in’.
4 years later and all looks exactly as fitted.

I haven’t needed to change the tape or re-seat the seals, as they came with 3M tape and degreasing pads to clean areas before fitting.
I have no affiliation with or know anyone at x8r.
I did research a lot before purchase.


Edit; just don’t turn the seal up at the bottom front. The OEM California ones run straight along the bottom of the door.
 
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How VW fitted them to T6 Californias.

And the vent used to release positive air pressure caught between the inner and outer seals when door closed;

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I drilled a few little holes along the bottom of the bottom seal - helps the air move and expels any water that may have got into the open top ends from rain/washing.
 
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