Electrical small job

[Chris1983]

Hi,

Posted in another thread, tell me if this is naive or against forum rules please.

Looking for someone to perform the soldering fix on a DRL lamp holder.

There appears to be a thread whereby someone has bypassed/ soldered some wires to offset the issue of a dodgy lamp holder causing bulb out (said thread has VW as aware and thus an updated H7 unit lamp holder with wires directly to lamp.

I have a quote for near £300 for this from local VW centre. Obvs I am both disappointed in this ‘hour job’ but also don’t have the electrical skill or equipment to solve myself.

Does anyone fancy helping? Happy to pay of course (again forum folk can tell me if this is not good etiquette etc).

Thanks in advance all,

 

[Bav]

It's customary to pay for such assistance with beer tokens.

 

[Chris1983]

Great, if anyone wants to help me out, beer tokens will be traded!

 

[gilesjuk]

Is it fitting these?

VW Transporter California T6 DRL running light bulb holder 7E0998953

Part Number 7E0998953 DRL daytime running light bulb holder repair kit New genuine original VW part Will not fit all, please check with us To Fit Volkswagen Transporter/Caravelle/California (T6) 2016 >> 2019 **This part may not fit all variations of the above models. Please send

www.partshaus.co.uk

If so I would crimp, not solder. Soldered joints are brittle and prone to snapping.

 

[Chris1983]

Is it fitting these?

VW Transporter California T6 DRL running light bulb holder 7E0998953

Part Number 7E0998953 DRL daytime running light bulb holder repair kit New genuine original VW part Will not fit all, please check with us To Fit Volkswagen Transporter/Caravelle/California (T6) 2016 >> 2019 **This part may not fit all variations of the above models. Please send

www.partshaus.co.uk

If so I would crimp, not solder. Soldered joints are brittle and prone to snapping.

I don’t have a clue?

I know my ‘older’ style holder seems to have failed (although no evidence of melting) and someone mentioned a fix with a new style DRL holder but needs some work on wiring. Immediately beyond my skill set.

Vw quoted me £300 for part and one hour labour.

Seemed excessive?! Hence my overtures to the forum

 

[roadtripper]

Yes it is those, and that's why I suggested heat shrink crimps.

Cut the wires, strip the ends off, squeeze with crimping pliers, heat with edge of flame.

Buy a set and spend 10 minutes practice with a bit of wire and you'd be fine I suspect.

 

[Paynewright]

Having fitted the uprated DRL bulb holders on the bench as a pre-emptive repair (bought some H7 headlights to replace the H4s), I’m not sure I’d even be able to do while the light units were still on the van or in under an hour. As a minimum you’d need to clear some working space - battery / airbox out.

That said, £300 seems excessive considering the parts are <£20.

 

[Chris1983]

Ok, so I am getting an understanding of the lamp holder side of the work, but where would I be attaching the two wires to?

I did swap out the h4 to h7’s so can take whole units out again, just don’t know where the crimped wires would be attaching to

 

[gilesjuk]

It's more serviceable to use connectors you can disconnect in the future. I'd even recommend Wago connectors over soldered joints. Anyone can use those.

 

[Chris1983]

I’ve ordered a lamp holder and will get some connectors.

If I have whole headlight units out of van, is it straightforward to determine ‘which wire to cut’ and splice new tails to?

 

[Chris1983]

https://amzn.eu/d/0b9ADZA9

These the correct sized ‘wago’?

 

[gilesjuk]

https://amzn.eu/d/0b9ADZA9

These the correct sized ‘wago’?

It says for up to 4mm2 cable. I'd think that is enough. I expect the cable isn't that thick. Wrapping them up in PVC tape will protect them from the elements.

 

[roadtripper]

Don't use any kind of non weather sealed connection.

That ability to remake the connection is of no use if using a non weather sealed connection means the wires have corroded away in the first place.

I've linked to @Paynewright post with pictures a couple of times now but for absolute clarity I'll put the picture right here, it's those 2 wires that look white (they're dark grey actually)



Cut these as close to the plates as possible to give you as much to work with as you can and join them to the 2 black wires on the new holder.

 

[ginkster]

but where would I be attaching the two wires to?

Without being able to look at the back of my lights I assume there are two options. Top option, but likely most difficult, would be to splice into the cables on the headlight itself which would look neater and simplify future headlamp removal. Easier option would be to cut the wires on the loom close to and before the connector and attach the new DRl holders there. That might be possible without removing anything. Main downside is disconnecting in the future and possible weatherproofing but that could be overcome by using a simple waterproof connector (available from Halfords for a few quid) or a wago and tape it up.

Edit: beaten to it by Roadtripper with great info of the golden solution.

 

[Chris1983]

Thank you all so much, I will report back! Fingers crossed

 

[Chris1983]

Does it matter which way around the wires go? I note in chat someone had just said ‘just flip bulb around if so’ but the bulbs I have seen appear symmetrical.

 

[Paynewright]

Does it matter which way around the wires go? I note in chat someone had just said ‘just flip bulb around if so’ but the bulbs I have seen appear symmetrical.

Only needs flipping (occasionally)with LED bulbs. Standard incandescent will be fine.

If I were attempting to do in situ I’d definitely use crimped connectors!

 

[Greybeard]

Yes it is those, and that's why I suggested heat shrink crimps.

Gosh @roadtripper
I’m 68 and a 16th Edition ex self-employed sparky, who gave up electricery in ‘02.
I know of and used crimp connectors, including butt connectors.
Also knew of heat shrink tubing, but never used it.
But, heat shrink crimp butt connectors?!?

Today is another school day!
Thank you
Andy

 

[roadtripper]

But, heat shrink crimp butt connectors?!?

Very handy in harsh environments as they are a mechanical connection on the conductor (so no issues of soldering fractures or migration) but easy to weather seal, as well as providing additional mechanical support.

Just test any new batch as I've heard some don't have the adhesive lining and are not nearly as good because of that.

 

[DXX]

I used to use them 30 years ago with wiring connections submerged in kerosene at 3 bar external pressure, brilliant invention. Duraseal are a reliable brand.