Feedback please on my new leisure battery wiring diagram

[Velosaurus]

Hi, I would be very grateful for feedback on my proposed refresh of the leisure battery system on my 2013 T5.1. Current set up is an 8 year old Travelvolts SCR with the addition of a 150w Solar panel on pop top. Van is currently used for weekends and weeks away using hookup. I am planning to spend more time in the Hebridean Islands & Orkney this year so need better off grid power.

I am planning initially to fit a Fogstar 105A Drift LB, a Victron Orion XS 50A DC-DC set at 30-35 Amps & a Victron 100/20 MPPT, under the passenger seat. My load calcs suggest this will give me 2-3 days off grid (fridge, lights & sockets), with no engine use. I looked at the 230ah Seatbase battery, but it stretches my budget and with my seat swivel I would need to remove the foam under the base and even then it would be tight. If a 105a Lithium Battery & 300w of Solar isnt enough I could fit another 105a battery under/behind the drivers seat.

My mains hook up is under the bonnet, I will also fit two RCBO breakers and my existing Victron 12/7 battery charger by the engine battery. I will also get an underslung diesel heater fitted (after I have the van undersealed). I'd like the design to allow the addition of a folding Solar Panel & small inverter run a Remoska later this year.

Any feedback on the (revised) Drawio diagram below would be brilliant.

Thanks Andy

 

[Velosaurus]

Pic of van for reference

 

[Sim60]

I think 200A fuse is too large for 25mm2 cable from the leisure battery. 150A fuse?

Simon

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Wire the heater and fridge direct to the battery ( with fuses ), I hate to see resistance points added as both these items are sensitive to voltage drop. You have 3 points there - cut them down to 1.

 

[Dellmassive]

Looking good so far....

 

[Velosaurus]

I think 200A fuse is too large for 25mm2 cable from the leisure battery. 150A fuse?

Simon

Thanks. you are right the 25mm2 is only rated at 170A unenclosed so a 150 would be better. There is a 150A in the Maxi/Midi Busbar as well.

 

[TallPaul_S]

Looking good, my fridge is connected to my secondary fuse box and I've had no issues, so long as you use the correct sized wire and don't have a really long cable run you're good.

2 additions I'd make:

Add a Victron smart shunt. The Fogstar BMS is ok but it's not very accurate and cannot see any loads or draws under 1a so can very easily get completely out of sync. The Victron shunt will be 99.999% accurate. And you'll also have everything in the one app. Oh and the shunt will read both your SB and LB voltages.

Add an Ablemail amt 12-2. It's literally 3 wires, one to the fuse nearest the Orion on the SB cable run, then as you have the 100/20 MPPT I'd suggest using the load output on that for the other 2 connections, this will mean no extra fuses need in your fuse boxes, and you can turn off this if needed.

 

[Velosaurus]

Wire the heater and fridge direct to the battery ( with fuses ), I hate to see resistance points added as both these items are sensitive to voltage drop. You have 3 points there - cut them down to 1.

Thankyou. I have amended this so that the fridge goes back to the main busbar (Martyn did advise the same when I installed the travelvolts kit). I want to be able to full isolate the Liesure battery so it needs to be downstream of the main isolator switch. I need to speak to the heater installer in Dumfries and see what they want to do as there may be warranty implications.