Front Mud Flaps, Oem Copies - Fitting Issues

Shaun Witts

Ski Bus
VIP Member
T6 Guru
So I have tried to fit these OEM copy front mud flaps, which looked to be really simple. For those that haven’t done this, they are held on by one bolt and a torx screw. The latter is a screw that appears to be a fixing for the plastic wheel arch liner, while the former bolt comes with the kit. Also in the kit is a hollow rubber bung with a captive nut in it. This bung replaces a blanking bung on the bottom of the vehicle, and the idea is that the bolt pulls the nut down, compressing and expanding the bung (inside the vehicle), and creating a secure second mount for the mudflap. It’s a bit like some hollow wall fixings for your house really.

But that is where I had problems. On the first attempt, squeezing the bung up into the vacant hole managed to dislodge the captive nut, which was then lost inside the sill. This happened twice. I contacted the seller, who admitted that this was sometimes a problem, and they quickly sent me some new bungs. I was very careful fitting the bung second time around, and screwed the bolt in a bit before fitting so I wouldn’t lose the nut. This technique was successful and with a bit of grease as well, i got the bung seated properly. However, when tightening it up the nut can no longer have been captive, as it just pulled through the bung without compressing it - and I was only using my fingers at this point.

So has anyone else had this problem? Are the genuine mudflap fixings any better?
 
I had issues with an aftermarket flap. Eventually both sides fell foul to a heavy handed employee at my local vw garage who refused to acknowledge the damage as the part wasn't genuine.
Anyway bought genuine and no issues.
Sadly it's that age old saying of buy cheap buy twice.
 
Make sure you give the area a good clean and if you have any rust prevention spray then I'd suggest alittle squirt.
 
Make sure you give the area a good clean and if you have any rust prevention spray then I'd suggest alittle squirt.
Indeed, the area will be liberally coated in waxoyl or ACF 50. The rivet nuts I’ve ordered are aluminium anyway, but I would always use plenty of corrosion inhibitor.
My van has only done 500 miles so far anyway, so is still pretty clean.
 
Back
Top