[Guide] Adjusting Front B14s

andys

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T6 Legend
Annoyingly, although I ordered the replacement bolts for the lower rear shock and ARB clamps a week ago, the seller has just notified me that they’re only just posting them today, so the van remains in the garage on jack stands unable to be used for a few more days.

With this in mind, I’m likely to want to drop the fronts very slightly, once I’ve been driving it again for a while. Will I need to remove any bolts to do this and if so which ones? If I order them now they should be here for when I need them, then I’m not stuck waiting around again.
 
No bolts need removing. Take the wheel off, use the two “c” spanner to crack the lock rings loose. Adjust the height, and then reverse the process.
 
After all the issues you have had and what you have learnt with the B14's and in particular the way some parts were installed. If starting from fresh would you self install or still have them dome for you?
 
After all the issues you have had and what you have learnt with the B14's and in particular the way some parts were installed. If starting from fresh would you self install or still have them dome for you?
I had them installed at THQ. I wouldn't dream of fitting them myself, adjusting them was bad enough.
 
Be sure to clean the threads the day before ( a good dosing of wd40 helps)
Also a litte tip,,
I made up a little tool to stop collar spinning when adgusting back up in height..and jammed it in the litttle hole at bottom of thread .
Obviously its easy to lower than raise
 
Be sure to clean the threads the day before ( a good dosing of wd40 helps)
Also a litte tip,,
I made up a little tool to stop collar spinning when adgusting back up in height..and jammed it in the litttle hole at bottom of thread .
Obviously its easy to lower than raise
Any pics of the tool?
 
Fronts are quite a bit easier than the rears.

Jack up the side you are adjusting to take the load off it, back off the locking ring and adjust to where you need. Then lock off the spring again.

I think the easiest method is to hold the upper of the two adjuster rings with the larger C spanner and spin the silver threaded collar in with the smaller C spanner.

The lowering measurement info:

21.jpg

8.jpg
 
So I adjusted one of these yesterday because I want to lift it to the highest they will go in preparation for all terrain wheels/tyres. Adjusting the front certainly is much easier than the back, but can I just get a sanity check? Looking at this photo I have lifted it haven’t I? (You can see which direction I’ve moved it from the exposed thread). It’s just that my van sits pretty low as it is and this didn’t seem to make much difference to the height. I’m surprised there’s so much thread available below.

ED1F6F1D-FB73-41EB-9C3A-C5B10DDA207B.jpeg
 
So I adjusted one of these yesterday because I want to lift it to the highest they will go in preparation for all terrain wheels/tyres. Adjusting the front certainly is much easier than the back, but can I just get a sanity check? Looking at this photo I have lifted it haven’t I? (You can see which direction I’ve moved it from the exposed thread). It’s just that my van sits pretty low as it is and this didn’t seem to make much difference to the height. I’m surprised there’s so much thread available below.

View attachment 100924

Raising the front and rear the same amount on the adjusters will lift the rear more than the front. This is because the front suspension is in line with the wheel, but the rear adjuster is in front of the rear wheel. If you want to raise the front and rear equal amounts the front needs to be wound up about 30% more than the back.

For example, if you wound the front up 10mm, the rear would need to go up 6mm or 7mm for the van to stay level.

Not sure if that answers your question?
 
Raising the front and rear the same amount on the adjusters will lift the rear more than the front. This is because the front suspension is in line with the wheel, but the rear adjuster is in front of the rear wheel. If you want to raise the front and rear equal amounts the front needs to be wound up about 30% more than the back.

For example, if you wound the front up 10mm, the rear would need to go up 6mm or 7mm for the van to stay level.

Not sure if that answers your question?
Thanks, no I just wanted to check I had turned the adjuster the right way before I do the other one i.e. is the one in the picture set so that the suspension is at full height or full drop?
 
Thanks, no I just wanted to check I had turned the adjuster the right way before I do the other one i.e. is the one in the picture set so that the suspension is at full height or full drop?
Yes, you have raised the front ride height by doing what you’ve done. At the front it’s wind rings up for the van to go up, at the rear it’s wind rings down to go up. The B14s lower the van by approx 40mm at the highest settings, but that could be as much as perhaps 50mm if yours is a heavy van.
 
Yes, you have raised the front ride height by doing what you’ve done. At the front it’s wind rings up for the van to go up, at the rear it’s wind rings down to go up. The B14s lower the van by approx 40mm at the highest settings, but that could be as much as perhaps 50mm if yours is a heavy van.
Great thanks, I’ve adjusted the rears before but never the front and I suddenly had a thought on Fri night, what if I’ve moved it the wrong way. That does mean my front was only lowered about 10mm while my rear had to be dropped almost all the way down to be level! I cant just wind the back up to the top then or it’s going to look like a Hot Wheels dragster, I can see it taking a few attempts before it looks right.
 
Amazed how much easier it is to do the fronts compared to the rears, literally a 5 min job.

Going to ask what is probably a stupid question now - I couldn’t fit my stock springs to the B14s to raise the ride height while keeping the better dampers could I?
 
If it could be done you would also be forcing the shock to run at a height it isn’t designed to, so would most likely decrease the ride quality and handling and increase the chances of it topping out.
 
If it could be done you would also be forcing the shock to run at a height it isn’t designed to, so would most likely decrease the ride quality and handling and increase the chances of it topping out.
Thanks, thought it would be unlikely but it was worth asking as I’ve got some sitting around. Really don’t want to put the original shocks and springs back, the handling was so bad I thought I’d made a big mistake, way worse than my std T5.
 
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