I currently have Whispbars on my (non van) motor. I've found these much quieter than Thule and nicer looking to boot. The J carriers are a thing of wonder compared with Thule's pipework version.
For the Van I wanted VW rails plus the low profile cross bars. However the VW rails apparently don't fit the SCA roofs too well, so it looks like I'll be stuck with Thule aero cross bars. They a good practical choice, but definitely more "builders van" than I was hoping for.
Top tip, for what it is worth: Get tie downs with rubber coated buckles. I praise the day I bought them every time someone "helps" me load a kayak and bounces a buckle off my paintwork.
For the Van I wanted VW rails plus the low profile cross bars. However the VW rails apparently don't fit the SCA roofs too well, so it looks like I'll be stuck with Thule aero cross bars. They a good practical choice, but definitely more "builders van" than I was hoping for.
Top tip, for what it is worth: Get tie downs with rubber coated buckles. I praise the day I bought them every time someone "helps" me load a kayak and bounces a buckle off my paintwork.
Agreed.
On that note its worth thinking about not just the physical weight of the kayak or any other object on the roof but also the weight of the drag it produces. A crazy example of what I mean to explain my point. A 20KG wardrobe on the roof of a van travelling at 60mph will be applying more than 20kg of force to the roof rack its strapped to.
Styling rails should be kept for just style and not used for function in my option.
I've got chrome ones from Vanstyle and despite them saying they have a 40KG weight capability id never contemplate hanging anything from them. Luckily I wasn't driving but I've been a passenger in a land rover discovery that had a canoe attached to the factory roof rails & bars when one failed. His only saving grace was that once he had strapped the canoe down before the journey the driver had tied a knot in the strap excess before shutting it in the door. This managed to stop the canoe from falling off the roof completely.
this is just one story and I'm sure their are countless people who do this day in day out without a hitch and their are other possible factors that may have contributed but the load is the drivers responsibility and the thought of a canoe bouncing down the road is enough to scare me into making sure my load is secure.
this is just one story and I'm sure their are countless people who do this day in day out without a hitch and their are other possible factors that may have contributed but the load is the drivers responsibility and the thought of a canoe bouncing down the road is enough to scare me into making sure my load is secure.
Thats the same with rear spoilers, someone had one come off! Luckily they had a clear road behind, he wen back to the fitter! But if it had gone wrong, and he'd fitted it!..........
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Just make sure you aren't kaking yourself
Oops, gave the game away there, kaking myself.
Just bought some Thule wing bars from a specialist kayak store, checked on Thule website and they recommend them for transporting Kayaks so not sure what else I can do to check they are up for the Job. Will also strap the Kayak to the factory rails across the middle.
200 mile trip home to Shropshire from Devon on Wednesday but will keep to 60mph max.
200 mile trip home to Shropshire from Devon on Wednesday but will keep to 60mph max.
It's not the roof bars you need to worry about, it's the rails you're fitting them to! The VW ones are designed to carry a load rather than look pretty so your set-up should be fine.
Also worthy of mention is buying a couple of folding steps......and another top tip is to put a twist in the straps so it doesn't sound like you have Bruce Foxton sat on the roof at anything above 20mph.
Also worthy of mention is buying a couple of folding steps......and another top tip is to put a twist in the straps so it doesn't sound like you have Bruce Foxton sat on the roof at anything above 20mph.
Assuming your rails are up to the job, Thule bars are about the best you can get, so you'll be fine. You may find the boat will move on the bars, a bit of pipe lagging will help, and also protect the boat. If this proves problematic longer-term, consider getting "V" cradles of some form, which will secure the boat considerably better.
I'm guessing the kayak may be a "Sit-on-Top"? If so, it will be relatively wide and flat, and this will tend to produce a lot of lift, so use decent tie straps as well - again, Thule are good. Putting it upside down may also be worth thinking about.
In terms of speed, suck it and see how you get on. I carry one, often two, 18ft sea kayaks in "J" cradles on both my car and the van at 70 quite happily. (And indeed sometimes more. ). These boats are arguably best carried on their side in "J's", but something like a SoT will probably be better flat.
I'm guessing the kayak may be a "Sit-on-Top"? If so, it will be relatively wide and flat, and this will tend to produce a lot of lift, so use decent tie straps as well - again, Thule are good. Putting it upside down may also be worth thinking about.
In terms of speed, suck it and see how you get on. I carry one, often two, 18ft sea kayaks in "J" cradles on both my car and the van at 70 quite happily. (And indeed sometimes more. ). These boats are arguably best carried on their side in "J's", but something like a SoT will probably be better flat.
Thanks guys @Mooncat @MikeB . Advice noted. It is a sit on top and I agree about putting it on upside down as it has more contact with the bars, I'm thinking of loading it in the middle of the van and strapping it down via the rails across the front, centre and back.Hadn't thought of twisting the straps but that sounds like a great tip. Also the pipe lagging is another great tip.
I'm also thinking of removing the drain plugs to help with letting the air pass through. Not sure if it will create a whistle though. Guess I'll find out on Wednesday.
Thanks again chaps.
I'm also thinking of removing the drain plugs to help with letting the air pass through. Not sure if it will create a whistle though. Guess I'll find out on Wednesday.
Thanks again chaps.
The point about putting it upside down isn't really about contact, it is about avoiding lift. A kayak hull will function as a wing at speed. Much better for it to be creating down force or pushing itself into a J cradle than trying to take off. If you are worried about contact then some roof rack pads might be an option. These are mine - they fit Thule Aero bars.
The only other point I'd add to the excellent advise above is to ensure that the straps go either side of the thickest part of the kayak to prevent it moving forwards. On a long trip I sometimes also add a bow line.
I feel we need a vans and yaks section in the forum
The only other point I'd add to the excellent advise above is to ensure that the straps go either side of the thickest part of the kayak to prevent it moving forwards. On a long trip I sometimes also add a bow line.
I feel we need a vans and yaks section in the forum
It's the manual.
The kayaks sit in "J" cradles, on a specialist side-loading rack - there are several options for J cradles, ours are KCS - which I thoroughly recommend. Others are available from KariTek, Malone and Thule. (I hesitate to recommend the Thule ones though).
The rack itself is from a German company called Zoltzer - eye wateringly expensive but allows easier loading as it comes down either side. It's solid, very nicely engineered and totally rattle free. Karitek make a similar one, although the whole lot comes down one side, which is somewhat cheaper.
I'm guessing that yours might be a Sit on Top if it's a 3 man boat? If so, "J's" and a side loading rack may not be the best solution and I have other suggestions. Have you a pop-top? If so, will it take the weight? The rack and cradles are in the region of 19kgs - then there's the weight of the boat.
Hope this helps.
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No pop top just standard Kombi, yes kayak is sit on top style. The kids want to take it everywhere, borrowed a friends roof rack and lashed it upside down, BUT could open the tail gate fully, and did not enjoy the three or so feet of kayak nose hanging over the windscreen. Any recommendations gratefully received.
Great fun aren't they? For carrying a SoT I'd tend towards a set of cross bars, and use wide V cradles which will secure the boat and also let you transport it right-way-up. Rhino bars are good and will bolt into the existing hardpoints in the roof, assuming these are fitted. Alternatively, you could just strap the boat on the bars, again right-way-up. Use cam straps of course - I've seen some eejits using bungee! Pipe lagging is good for protecting the boat, and also stops any slippage if it's well secured to the bars. Or get some Palm Roof Bar Pads - Palm Roof Bar Pads | Roof Bar Pads | Kayak Roof Pads | Pads - Canoe and Kayak Store - they are just pipe lagging neatly wrapped in nylon with attachment straps.
This combination and set-up should allow the tailgate to open fully and the boat won't hang down in front of the screen, as the bars should raise it high enough.
If you do decide to get V cradles, Ronnie, who runs KCS, INDEXwill make you a set of V's to suit the hull profile if you ask nicely and say that I suggested talking to him
In fairness, you could use J cradles - most SoT's are quite wide though, which is why I'm suggesting V's.
Or, Thule do a set of cradles for carrying a boat supported on it's hull - they're ok - as noted, I've got reservations about their J's.
