Leisure battery draining overnight

Jp143?

New Member
Hi all first post here

I have a 2018 T6 converted it has a Sargent EC160 power unit in it when I stay in the van the leisure battery starts at 12.7 by the time I wake up it’s at 7.7 only item that’s been on is the fridge it’s a brand new leisure batter

Any help would be great cheers
 
Welcome to the forum @Jp143?

If a lead acid battery is showing a voltage of that level then that battery has failed, it takes remarkably few deep discharge cycles to kill a battery.

lead-acid-battery-state-of-charge-table-jpg.222970


You need to find what is putting a load on your system and killing the batteries, there's an extensive thread here investigating this that might be helpful reading


Start by taking some pictures of your system showing both your batteries, chargers and wiring and folks will be more able to advise.
 
One question - did you put the new leisure battery in because of this problem, or is this something that has happened after fitting the new battery?
 
The battery is now dead and will need replacement. Don’t fit a new battery without finding the cause or that will be damaged beyond repair..
For Forum members to provide some advice you will need to provide some detailed info on the electrical installation and the consumers that it’s supplying.
Photos help.
 
I left the fridge on and the old battery ran out
So I tired to charge the old one but it just kept dropping very low so I replaced it with a new battery
 
Check that your split charge system is working. It’s common to get a blown fuse if you’ve run the Lb flat. Doesn’t affect B2B chargers bit I think the Sargent system is a VSR based system
 
On the CTEK why are there 2 wires on the positive input terminal and 2 wires on the negative output terminal? Where are those wires going?

Also that charger will have 2 small gauge options wires (red and black) where are those connected to?
 
If you want to resolve this then you need to be sure, we can only help if you know the state and arrangements of your wiring.
 
Aside from the battery discharge problem I’d get an insulated shroud over the battery positive terminal soon.
 
Can you disconnect your fridge and see what happens with the battery - there may be something else at play?
At the fuse not the switch on the fridge - the ones on the fridge are generally a "soft on/off" that just tells the fridge controller not to run, it doesn't actually disconnect the power.
 
Be aware this isn't a conclusive test with your damaged battery - a 12v lead acid that's been run flat hard enough to reach 7.7v is likely to have cell damage that will cause quite a lot of self discharge.
 
From that test last night of taking the fuse out the battery seemed to hold at 13.5v got a couple more tests just keeping you all updated
 
13.5v is too high for a lead acid battery at rest, that's around 12.7v

13.5v suggests a charger is still running, which would invalidate the test?
 
On the CTEK why are there 2 wires on the positive input terminal and 2 wires on the negative output terminal? Where are those wires going?

Also that charger will have 2 small gauge options wires (red and black) where are those connected to?
While you're digging try and check these, there's potentially unusual wiring on your CTEK
 
While you're digging try and check these, there's potentially unusual wiring on your CTEK
The second neg looks to be from the solar panel. It’s from the same cable sleeve as the solar pos input.
Which will also probably explain the battery reading of 13.5v
 
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