Loc8 door table rubbing 10J rear wheel

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I just wanted to check if anyone else finds that they cannot fit a Loc8 door table alongside their Lv1 or Lv2 alloys (wider, 10J rear)? Mine rubs and I just want to be sure that's just a by-product of the wheel width and not me being some sort of muppet in how I've fitted it?

I'm reliably informed that the wheel width and offset is the problem, but before I move the table on and think of a plan b I just wanted to check.

Thanks
 
I just wanted to check if anyone else finds that they cannot fit a Loc8 door table alongside their Lv1 or Lv2 alloys (wider, 10J rear)? Mine rubs and I just want to be sure that's just a by-product of the wheel width and not me being some sort of muppet in how I've fitted it?

I'm reliably informed that the wheel width and offset is the problem, but before I move the table on and think of a plan b I just wanted to check.

Thanks
I’ve read posts on the forum about the sliding-door brackets being loosened and the slider adjusted to suit.

However I’m about to press the button on a Loc8 so if it won’t work with your van, drop me a line!
 
I have a loc8 table with 10j wheels (innovit blitz) and I don't have any issues.
Surely the wheel arch sits further out than the wheels themselves, or are you just getting catching on the bottom edge?
 
I have a loc8 table with 10j wheels (innovit blitz) and I don't have any issues.
Surely the wheel arch sits further out than the wheels themselves, or are you just getting catching on the bottom edge?
Yeah it's catching on the bottom edge/lip that the table sits in and rubs the wheel where the spokes sit proud of the outer rim.

I'm currently at standard ride height and did wonder if it was lower (I have some coilovers to put on) then would it clear the wheel slightly differently because the wheels would camber inwards from the top?
 
Yeah it's catching on the bottom edge/lip that the table sits in and rubs the wheel where the spokes sit proud of the outer rim.

I'm currently at standard ride height and did wonder if it was lower (I have some coilovers to put on) then would it clear the wheel slightly differently because the wheels would camber inwards from the top?
The Loc 8 set up looks similar to the Cali Table / door card, there have been reports that the factory fitted VW Cali table card rubs on the wheel arch from new, so there must be a tolerance that the factory sets these doors within.
mine stands proud of the wheel arch by quite a bit, but others report next to no gap !

The slider can be adjusted quite a bit via the three hinges / roller/ brackets, although from experience it’s a bit of trial and error. (Even for VW)
Each door hinge bracket carries out a different function as far as geometry and alignment.

does your slider close nicely with no real forward pressure, gaps correct etc?

if not may be worth a try at adjusting the brackets.

word of warning: Mark the exist position before making any adjustment, make small adjustments and check , recheck the door operation and closing (carefully) after each small adjustment.

if you need info on which slider hinge / bracket does what, I’ll find some previous information I had and drop the detail in here. (If I can find it)

here you go from previous post (elsewhere) : some basic indication (trial and error required)

The roller brackets can be adjusted, (all three) they do wear out and can be replaced if necessary.


The top roller can be adjusted inward to pull the top of the door in ward and conversely allow the bottom to clear the bodywork. Correct adjustment will ensure the top roller makes contact with the outside of the top rail and allow the roller to roll. ( not slides)

Open the sliding door half way fully, look up at the the top roller bracket from you will see several fixings, in the middle of the bracket there is a slot, the slot is a locator and sits over a protrusion.

Mark the existing position of the two parts of the top bracket (important) so you can reference the existing position. (Use something that will not rub off easily, or attach some tape to the two parts and mark that)

Loosen the two screws that attach the two brackets together ( do not undo them fully, just loosen them) the bracket will now slide in / out

Using the previously marked position as your reference, move the door inwards on the bracket, by a couple of millimetres.

Tighten the two screws fully

Try the operation of the door carefully to see if this improves the alignment / position of the door, check all gaps etc for correct / even spacing and ensure the door does not catch the body work and door pillar brackets. Check if this has improved or not

Repeat as necessary. ( small adjustments make a big difference)

Each bracket, top, middle and bottom have a specific job to do in correct alignment of the slider.

I’m afraid it’s Trial and error to be the door seated and working 100%

Remembering to mark the original position of each bracket before you loosen / adjust anything, so you have a point of reference and can return to the exiting setting if required.
 
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The Loc 8 set up looks similar to the Cali Table / door card, there have been reports that the factory fitted VW Cali table card rubs on the wheel arch from new, so there must be a tolerance that the factory sets these doors within.
mine stands proud of the wheel arch by quite a bit, but others report next to no gap !

The slider can be adjusted quite a bit via the three hinges / roller/ brackets, although from experience it’s a bit of trial and error. (Even for VW)
Each door hinge bracket carries out a different function as far as geometry and alignment.

does your slider close nicely with no real forward pressure, gaps correct etc?

if not may be worth a try at adjusting the brackets.

word of warning: Mark the exist position before making any adjustment, make small adjustments and check , recheck the door operation and closing (carefully) after each small adjustment.

if you need info on which slider hinge / bracket does what, I’ll find some previous information I had and drop the detail in here. (If I can find it)

here you go from previous post (elsewhere) : some basic indication (trial and error required)

The roller brackets can be adjusted, (all three) they do wear out and can be replaced if necessary.


The top roller can be adjusted inward to pull the top of the door in ward and conversely allow the bottom to clear the bodywork. Correct adjustment will ensure the top roller makes contact with the outside of the top rail and allow the roller to roll. ( not slides)

Open the sliding door half way fully, look up at the the top roller bracket from you will see several fixings, in the middle of the bracket there is a slot, the slot is a locator and sits over a protrusion.

Mark the existing position of the two parts of the top bracket (important) so you can reference the existing position. (Use something that will not rub off easily, or attach some tape to the two parts and mark that)

Loosen the two screws that attach the two brackets together ( do not undo them fully, just loosen them) the bracket will now slide in / out

Using the previously marked position as your reference, move the door inwards on the bracket, by a couple of millimetres.

Tighten the two screws fully

Try the operation of the door carefully to see if this improves the alignment / position of the door, check all gaps etc for correct / even spacing and ensure the door does not catch the body work and door pillar brackets. Check if this has improved or not

Repeat as necessary. ( small adjustments make a big difference)

Each bracket, top, middle and bottom have a specific job to do in correct alignment of the slider.

I’m afraid it’s Trial and error to be the door seated and working 100%

Remembering to mark the original position of each bracket before you loosen / adjust anything, so you have a point of reference and can return to the exiting setting if required.
Wow, thanks for such a detailed reply, that's great of you.

I'll let you know how it goes
 
Im not sure how deep this LOC 8 is from the door but for the California door card which looks similar, we use 10x 20 ET45 rear wheel with no rubbing when opened.
 
Here is a photo of the Cali door card,

as you can see the rear mud flap (after market) extends past the wheel arch ,
it is close to the table but does not touch it

could it be that the Cali door is set up to be further out at the bottom when open ?
partuclarly as the door card / table looks to be deeper than the Loc8 !

AF4009AD-8E6C-4E5B-B545-2BF725523F89.jpeg

6E882EF9-272B-42E0-8C8A-A9C7C56F3C3A.jpeg
 
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I just wanted to check if anyone else finds that they cannot fit a Loc8 door table alongside their Lv1 or Lv2 alloys (wider, 10J rear)? Mine rubs and I just want to be sure that's just a by-product of the wheel width and not me being some sort of muppet in how I've fitted it?

I'm reliably informed that the wheel width and offset is the problem, but before I move the table on and think of a plan b I just wanted to check.

Thanks
Did you sort your problem out? I am looking to get the table but have the lvr 1 wheels and lowered by cars performance by 50mm
 
Sorry to hijak - but what clips did you guys use for the LOC8 table? Just about to order one and notice that it say to use existing ones. Mine wont really be suitable so thinking something like those you'd use for a door store.

Thanks
 
Sorry to hijak - but what clips did you guys use for the LOC8 table? Just about to order one and notice that it say to use existing ones. Mine wont really be suitable so thinking something like those you'd use for a door store.

Thanks
I used the factory ones. Pop them out then pop them in with Loc8

It's simple.

My problem is as shown in the above photos. Probably because van on a slope the weight is drawing in bottom corner towards tyre. I'll try parking van on level ground and see if I get the rubbing.
 
HESS do a bracket to extend the opening by 15mm. It’s not cheap though at about £430!!!, probably shipping on top of that too.
 
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