No aftermarket head unit? No problem…

T6_FunBus

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Afternoon,

A while back I looked at the cost of upgrading the factory head unit or components.

After reviewing multiple options I decided to try a route I have gone before on a few factory systems.

I spent a long time looking unto active subs, and I wanted to maximise space and not have huge boxes or amps.

I ended up purchasing a JBL nano pro.

I had some iso pins in my toolbox from a previous install so, I went to the local auto-factors and bought 6 meters of speaker cable and an in-line fuse for about £5.

Popping out the head unit is the easiest unit U have ever removed. Trim tool to pop out the surround, a couple of torx screws and its out - literally 5 minutes.

I divided the cable into exactly two, crimped the wires to the pin, pushed it into the block and here we had my high level output for the sub.

I ran the cables foen the back of the dash and along the original loom to the passenger seat.

The JBL nano is heavy, and a quality bit of kit. Its VERY small, and I didn’t have any huge expectations for it. It also features an auto power on and off which it utilises the signal on the speakers wires / high level to switch on and off - no problems at all using that over the past couple of months.

Trying to tune the sub was a challenge. Due to the horrible factory bluetooth composition media unit dsp, you either have booming bass low down and moderate bass at high volume, or lower bass at low volume and no bass over about 1/3rd volume.

After a lot of research I settled on the lc2i and purchased one but hadn’t had chance to fit it yet.

Today I finally went out and tackled the job, I piggy backed the power and ground from the JBL nano feed and switched high level from the sub to the lc2i.

I then added the rca cable from the lc2i to low level on the JBL nano.

Now, I played with it for a good hour, and, honestly it seemed to do nothing at all. But after reading up further and discovering I had hit the phase button on the sub (so the components and sub were cancelling each other out at higher volumes) it started to sound a LOT better. After another good 45 mins or so tweaking I am hapoy to report that the factory system is now absolutely banging - on par with premium systems I have had in other vehicles.

The JBL nano is bolted to a wooden base in the passenger seat, and the lc2i to the back inside the seat base.

The sub is set to 100hz, with gain and bass etc all in the middle, and the stupid bass boost remote disconnected.

The lc2i threshold is approximately at 50%, with bass dial on 1/3rd and accubass at maximum (but not 100% otherwise this causes acubase to always be on and then you get boomy lows again.

Head unit is flat (middle of the slider), with mids slightly increased at about 60% and highs increased perhaps 75-80%

The system now has an immensely ‘clean’ sound. No booming at low volume, and bass, mids and highs all hold together fantastically up to high volume with amazing punch and depth yo yhe sound (50% on the headunit is loud enough that you can’t talk and have to shout ovet it, but it doesn’t hurt your ears and there is zero distortion).

I should probably add, in the seat base I have the metal sound deadened and also when I was insulating and sound proofing everything, I didn the inside of the door skin, but not outside as I didn’t feel like drilling out the rivets back then, but the door woofers are only there for mid bass anyway and sound great.

Total cost of upgrade:

Jbl nano pro £155
Lc2i £102
Wire and fuse £5

Screws, foam and wood I already had.

I honestly do not think that there would be any solution for £262 that would sound better. And that is coming from someone who has had HK, Bose, and numerous aftermarket phoenix gold, audison and focal installs to name a few.

It does take time though and require a fair bit of wiring in and routing / securing stuff, as well as tuning yo get the best out of the setup, but I enjoy tinkering anyway

Thanks.
 
Sorry for all the typos, still out in the van in the dark typing on my phone

just to add the only thing I miss now is carplay, as I am more than happy with the sound. So I will be looking into whether the rcd330 has an even worse dsp or output than the composition. If that is the case then I think it would be a no go, as I feel the lc2i is on the limit.
 
You'd probably find the 330 DSP is on par or worse from experience I wouldn't say it's any better
 
That would be my concern, if the rcd330 dsp or amp is worse, the acubass is at its limit, not in terms of threshold but acubass is pretty much on max to recover the low end. If the output is less then it would be a lost cause.

The result at the moment is great for a factory setup with just these two extras added - surprising what you can get out of the stock speakers, but the mids and highs need a lot of EQ or they sound really muddy.

Appreciate sound is also subjective, and this setup isn’t earth shattering if thats what people want but its a very decent upgrade for the ££

I listen to mostly electronic music as well, which it sounds great, but haven’t experimented with other genre’s yet.
 
@T6_FunBus do you have any further details about the install? Maybe pictures?
Do you think it would you be able to use the line out from the Lc2i to drive a mini amp and loop back to the door speakers?
I’m keen to get this little lot under the passenger seat but my heater output comes up through the floor (which prevents the use of standard underseat sub enclosure route). So interested to see what sort of space.
 
I will grab a picture later for you. The LC2i is a 2 channel, it can do either 2 channel for a sub or 2 for speakers but not both at the same time. There is another one for that lc4 or something.

Since the bass roll off is so bad on the stock unit, this IMO is essential to get a corrected signal to the speakers. Otherwise you end up with that annoying situation of booming bass low volume, and still next to none at high volume.

The LC2i takes high level (in my case just installed rear speaker wire pins as I had none), and ran the output to the lc2i, then you can use rca from the LoC to your amp with the corrected signal.

Thats exactly what I an doing, apart from the sub is active so just in built amp.

Cheers.
 
The sub is small, but I wouldn’t put anything above it or it would rattle around. The LC2i isn’t very large. That block of foam is to stop vibrations transfering to the wires in the middle of the double seat.

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@T6_FunBus thanks for the reply that really shows the size and thanks for the extra info, it didn’t register that you used rear speaker outputs. In that case I could probably use the standard mini 2 ch amp and harness for fronts up inside the dash for best of both worlds. I have Etons and I think they need more to get the most from them. Not really sure which way to go with it all.

Do you think you could fit the sub in on its side?
I have single passenger seat and the air duct from the heater runs right through the middle. I might be able to made a plate and have it face down?!?

Thanks again!!
 
I don’t see why not, if you made a mount for it - would mean screws or bolt going through the side of the seat though. The JBL sub is compact and gives a nice amount of bass. I got it for £155 when Amazon themselves had a load, best to hunt around or wait for the price to come back down. There may be an alternative but having not tested any other compact sub I couldn’t say.

I have the stock HU powering stock components, which is fine as bass is flat, so they just do mids a minor amount of punch and highs, I eq that up and it sound surprisingly decent for the music I listen to. I would hope something like a decent line out convertor to correct the signal combined with an amp could really help if you have much better components in. How much I couldn’t say as I don’t have that setup, but I think there are others on here that have used a decent LOC and Amp combo just with components.
 
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