Propex HS2000 and it’s feed voltage..

[widu13]

Just to add to this, I have a little more info. Having just installed a CTEK 250SE B2B and AGM battery I am having the same issue. (I will fit a voltage stabiliser, so that I can use it on the move). I have spoken to Propex and they have NOT cured the issue on the unit itself and themselves recommend a stabiliser/rectifier or a switch for a simpler solution, but confirm that the unit should be okay to 14.5v without showing an error which would tie in with an earlier post.

With the CTEK you can "set" the input voltage by not connecting the black wire which is the AGM setting which allows the charger to charge at 14.9v, whereas omitting this forces the unit to charge at the bog standard 14.5v which won't (shouldn't!) activate the over voltage protection.

For anyone wanting to reset the error codes, it is simple but not widely publicised- switch the unit (either analogue or digital) off and on 3 times and the codes are cleared, thereby enabling it's use.

 

[SteveW1963]

Bit of forward progress. Called Propex and they informed me about a reset button on the unit itself just above where the electrical connector plugs in. I hadn’t noticed this previously. This has cleared the solid red light fault and it’s no longer bricked. I’m now getting a combustion error but Propex have said the air inlet and exhaust pipes should be between 150mm and 300mm apart, whereas mine are about 1m apart. When I get home tonight I I’ll move them closer together and then hopefully I will get heat

I

I have the same perm red light and cannot reset by the on off etc. Is there a reset button in the unit itself, some have said on the pcb board?

 

[Thom.milburn]

Apologies for bringing this back to life however after recently upgrading my T6's 'dump' split charge relay to a smart dc-dc Charger I have encountered this same issue.

After researching, i have concluded the simplest thing to do is simply become familiar with the reset procedure via the heater control dial. A flaw of the proper heater installed in a vehicle with smart alternators i think.

 

[roadtripper]

Which side does your heater take it's power from?

I'd have thought you'd see higher voltage swings with a smart alternator on a basic relay system (where the leisure system is exposed to the high voltage rapid charge events) than a DC-DC system (where the voltages are independent)

 

[Thom.milburn]

Which side does your heater take it's power from?

I'd have thought you'd see higher voltage swings with a smart alternator on a basic relay system (where the leisure system is exposed to the high voltage rapid charge events) than a DC-DC system (where the voltages are independent)

by side do you mean vehicle battery or leisure? if so - it's from the leisure. The heater worked perfectly on the old system and does so now once reset but requires resetting after each start up, suggesting a voltage spike on start up throwing the heater into meltdown!

Admittedly i can't understand why as i thought the smart charger balanced the voltage spikes somewhat (mine is a nemo dc1230)

 

[roadtripper]

Well a DC-DC should completely isolate the 2 systems, it's just a consumer on the starter side.

It does seem though that the Propex over voltage level is very close to common charging levels for more modern batteries, rather than smart alternators as such.

 

[roadtripper]

Depending on what the current draw is low current Victron DC-DC voltage stabilisers are not outrageous price wise:

Orion IP67 24/12 DC-DC Converters

If you are looking for Orion IP67 24/12 DC-DC Converters then Battery Megastore have you covered. See all our Orion IP67 24/12 DC-DC Converters products here.

www.bmstechnologies.co.uk

 

[Thom.milburn]

I may have stumbled upon the answer, after four hours of research thanks to user "Brom" and their post HERE

To reiterate: I have installed a Nemo DC to DC charger and have had the 3-flashing light issue with my Propex HS2000 when the vehicle ignition was switched on. I too have an option to select battery type on to charger itself (AGM, GEL, LFP, WET) and had it switched to "wet" battery (as mine is just your standard battery) which could give 14.8v. I fear this was too close to the upper voltage threshold for the Propex (10-15v input range) and so I've moved to "Gel" settings on the charger which should only give the leisure battery 14.2v and a little more contingency for the Propex. And whilst i know these chargers etc are designed by engineers and very clever people - the lower absorption voltage gives me a little more comfort knowing this is closer to the 13.6v regular batteries would normally be fed before smart alternators came along, albeit it may charge marginally more slowly.

A very quick test on the driveway showed no light had returned at the thermostat so HOPEFULLY this has been a quick fix (although a headscratcher!)