Rear floor insulation

[Newcs]

Having searched and searched I cannot seem to work out the answer so apologies if it’s out there.

I’m about to sound deaden and insulate my floor. Plan was 9mm battons. Cover in the gaps/ridges with dodo hex mat and then 100% cover with a layer of super liner.

By my calculations I work out 5mm insulation, 12mm floor and 2mm Altro gives me a 17mm increase in height. I would have liked to add dodo hex above the ridges but this would take me to 19mm.

Will the Kombi step still fit this height? If not do I have to get a Caravelle step?

 

[oscarcharlie]

I'd like to know the same and I can't seem to find an answer either.

I was planning on putting down some 9mm battens in the gaps (as I believe 9mm is the same height as the metal ridges) cover it all with dodo mat duo (6.8mm), lay a 12mm ply floor on top of that, then cover with altro or similar (2mm).

Will that all fit underneath the 17mm taller side loading steps?
Seems way too much to fit underneath.
Is the taller side step 17mm higher than the 9mm ridges?

If anyone can share any information or their experiences, it would be appreciated

 

[DXX]

If you don’t get a definitive answer why not just layout a small test area near the side door and see if it works?

 

[AJCConversions]

We do not insulate underneath floors in our conversions, we have tried on a demo van in years past but found the gain (if any) was outweighed by the pain of being able to fit the floor the way we like to.. If you look at picture 1 attached you can see the Kombi step fits into the side loading door rubber perfect, then with picture 2 you can see the ply floor fits tightly to the Kombi step as well.

The fitting procedure for this is simply 9mm ply batons on all flat areas of the van floor in between the ribs, these are bonded directly to the steel using polyurethane adhesive. Then the 1 piece flooring is bonded directly to them.

There's a few reasons this is a great method, one being you never run the risk of a screw working it's way loose over time and creating a little bump/hill in your vinyl, as the vinyl's so strong even the smallest thing makes a really apparent lump!

Also, with a great fitting floor you can vinyl it outside of the van which is much easier but when fitting the slight amount of adhesive allows you to "play" with the floor and ensure it's absolutely level for when you come to fitting your units meaning they meet the floor spot on front to back!

There's no right or wrong way but at least here there's no screws in the floor and everything fit's as intended

Brandon

 

[oscarcharlie]

We do not insulate underneath floors in our conversions, we have tried on a demo van in years past but found the gain (if any) was outweighed by the pain of being able to fit the floor the way we like to.. If you look at picture 1 attached you can see the Kombi step fits into the side loading door rubber perfect, then with picture 2 you can see the ply floor fits tightly to the Kombi step as well.

The fitting procedure for this is simply 9mm ply batons on all flat areas of the van floor in between the ribs, these are bonded directly to the steel using polyurethane adhesive. Then the 1 piece flooring is bonded directly to them.

There's a few reasons this is a great method, one being you never run the risk of a screw working it's way loose over time and creating a little bump/hill in your vinyl, as the vinyl's so strong even the smallest thing makes a really apparent lump!

Also, with a great fitting floor you can vinyl it outside of the van which is much easier but when fitting the slight amount of adhesive allows you to "play" with the floor and ensure it's absolutely level for when you come to fitting your units meaning they meet the floor spot on front to back!

There's no right or wrong way but at least here there's no screws in the floor and everything fit's as intended

Brandon

View attachment 182056View attachment 182057

Thank you so much for this response, it's very much appreciated you took the time to explain clearly and also provide images.

There appears to be many different methods, like you say, no right or wrong as such.
I definitely don't want to screw into the floor so I'll definitely be considering your method as an option.

Can I just ask if the rear threshold is the same? Sits above the flooring? I'm looking at getting a full width one to replace the narrow one that's supplied and would ideally like the floor to go slightly under the threshold, like the side step does in your pictures.

Thank you

 

[AJCConversions]

Thank you so much for this response, it's very much appreciated you took the time to explain clearly and also provide images.

There appears to be many different methods, like you say, no right or wrong as such.
I definitely don't want to screw into the floor so I'll definitely be considering your method as an option.

Can I just ask if the rear threshold is the same? Sits above the flooring? I'm looking at getting a full width one to replace the narrow one that's supplied and would ideally like the floor to go slightly under the threshold, like the side step does in your pictures.

Thank you

no problem at all, it’s an absolute minefield finding a solution to any job on these vans

Yes, the rear threshold is the same and fits spot on. We do not use the genuine VW one as it leaves small gaps at either end. There is an aftermarket version which also fits great but runs right into the D-Pillars preventing debris dropping down the sides of the threshold.

Feel free to drop me a message or give me a call when fitting if it helps bud

Brandon

 

[Adam Lucas]

no problem at all, it’s an absolute minefield finding a solution to any job on these vans

Yes, the rear threshold is the same and fits spot on. We do not use the genuine VW one as it leaves small gaps at either end. There is an aftermarket version which also fits great but runs right into the D-Pillars preventing debris dropping down the sides of the threshold.

Feel free to drop me a message or give me a call when fitting if it helps bud

Brandon

Hi Brandon, do you sell the longer rear threshold or have a link to one?
Thanks

 

[AJCConversions]

Hi Brandon, do you sell the longer rear threshold or have a link to one?
Thanks

Hi,

Yes, we do but these would be collection only i'm afraid!

Brandon

 

[Carlwaynie]

Why bother if the gain is small and its hassle?

 

[Albel]

We do not insulate underneath floors in our conversions, we have tried on a demo van in years past but found the gain (if any) was outweighed by the pain of being able to fit the floor the way we like to.. If you look at picture 1 attached you can see the Kombi step fits into the side loading door rubber perfect, then with picture 2 you can see the ply floor fits tightly to the Kombi step as well.

The fitting procedure for this is simply 9mm ply batons on all flat areas of the van floor in between the ribs, these are bonded directly to the steel using polyurethane adhesive. Then the 1 piece flooring is bonded directly to them.

There's a few reasons this is a great method, one being you never run the risk of a screw working it's way loose over time and creating a little bump/hill in your vinyl, as the vinyl's so strong even the smallest thing makes a really apparent lump!

Also, with a great fitting floor you can vinyl it outside of the van which is much easier but when fitting the slight amount of adhesive allows you to "play" with the floor and ensure it's absolutely level for when you come to fitting your units meaning they meet the floor spot on front to back!

There's no right or wrong way but at least here there's no screws in the floor and everything fit's as intended

Brandon

View attachment 182056View attachment 182057

Sorry one quick question is what is the gap between the top of the floor ridges and the underside of the side step
Is it 12mm ply 2mm alto ? Or liner 9 mm ply 2 mm altro

 

[AJCConversions]

Sorry one quick question is what is the gap between the top of the floor ridges and the underside of the side step
Is it 12mm ply 2mm alto ? Or liner 9 mm ply 2 mm altro

Above the ridges of the floor will be the 12mm ply followed by 2mm of vinyl. Both products always vary ever so slightly but the difference is negligible and never visible once fitted in the van.

Hope that makes sense! Feel free to give us a call if easier and i can run you through it!

Brandon

 

[Albel]

Above the ridges of the floor will be the 12mm ply followed by 2mm of vinyl. Both products always vary ever so slightly but the difference is negligible and never visible once fitted in the van.

Hope that makes sense! Feel free to give us a call if easier and i can run you through it!

Brandon

Cheers do you have a contact for the one piece floors so I can collect around Birmingham area

 

[AJCConversions]

Cheers do you have a contact for the one piece floors so I can collect around Birmingham area

We actually manufacture our own floors in house, these are £140 inc VAT collected or £190 inc VAT posted as SWB.

Brandon

 

[Albel]

We actually manufacture our own floors in house, these are £140 inc VAT collected or £190 inc VAT posted as SWB.

Brandon

Is this 9 mm or 12mm pls also were are you for collection pls

 

[AJCConversions]

Is this 9 mm or 12mm pls also were are you for collection pls

These are 12mm ply and we're based in Glossop SK136LQ. You can pop us into maps and it will bring you straight here. Please note we make them to order so 1 days notice is appreciated

Brandon

 

[t5explorer]

As I have converted a few vans, from my experience to get rid of the road noise you need to have 2 or even 3 layers of sound deadening and insulation. First layer is sound deadening Butyl type, I used Peacemat XR products from my local supplier, second layer is MLV Barrier, something like Peacemat XL and the third layer 3mm, 6mm or 10mm closed cell foam, depends on the gap you have. These 3 layers made an amazing difference in every van we have converted.