Slider doesn’t close flush

[huxwar]

Evening,
I would normally happily trawl through threads to find an answer but having just got van back after having fuel filter replaced, I found the sliding door would not shut flush. Trouble is we are meant to be going away tmoz morning as have campsite booked for two nights.

I have had a poke around and it seems the first part of the door latch works as I can lock the van but doesn’t seem to want to go the extra 10mm or so to sit flush. It feels as if it’s against a hard stop! Door always closed fine before.

Is there any temporary quick fix for now?
Is there something simple I’m missing?
Is there a way I can override any door module or anything else that may be the issue?

Many thanks

 

[n10n]

Electric slider and/or power latching? If so, try removing the 40A fuse from below of left seat and then opening/closing the door manually. It will be heavy to operate but should avoid electrics getting in the way.

Here’s a pic of my fuse for right hand slider (LHD vehicle): Power-closing door problem

Once you get it to close properly manually put the fuse back and see if it works then. Worst case keep the fuse off and just use it manually for the trip.

 

[huxwar]

@n10n thanks bud, I’ll try that first thing tmoz

 

[roadtripper]

Does sound like you have power latching and it's not sensing the door close so not pulling in - they work by the door latching on to the hasp and then the hasp being pulled tight by an additional motor.

As well as the steps from @n10n double check the set of contacts on the B pillar are clean and working.

 

[n10n]

Does sound like you have power latching and it's not sensing the door close so not pulling in - they work by the door latching on to the hasp and then the hasp being pulled tight by an additional motor.

When I had this issue it was as if the hasp was pulled in without the door being latched. The door would just clunk into a solid stop and not latch at all. I got around the acute issue by trying closing for some tens of times and only then got the door closed.

I haven’t taken a look but should probably check if there’s some VCDS output test to drive the hasp.

 

[huxwar]

Electric slider and/or power latching? If so, try removing the 40A fuse from below of left seat and then opening/closing the door manually. It will be heavy to operate but should avoid electrics getting in the way.

Here’s a pic of my fuse for right hand slider (LHD vehicle): Power-closing door problem

Once you get it to close properly manually put the fuse back and see if it works then. Worst case keep the fuse off and just use it manually for the trip.

Had a look at this @n10n
Scuppered at the first hurdle as I have Exploria swivels which have a solid top cover when you slide the seat forward and no access to those fuses etc.
Think I will have to live with it this weekend, we aren’t going that far but site is booked. It will have to wait until we get back now

 

[huxwar]

Electric slider and/or power latching? If so, try removing the 40A fuse from below of left seat and then opening/closing the door manually. It will be heavy to operate but should avoid electrics getting in the way.

Here’s a pic of my fuse for right hand slider (LHD vehicle): Power-closing door problem

Once you get it to close properly manually put the fuse back and see if it works then. Worst case keep the fuse off and just use it manually for the trip.

so, that didn’t work unfortunately @n10n

I’ve done a bit of invest with a borrowed snap-on tester which a friend kindly let me borrow. From what little I know all the related codes to do with the door are saying intermittent. Took the carpeted door panels off (with hidden screws…shit job) and had a root around. Noticed on the rh side door that was working properly, with the power latching, that the hasp spins 180° at the end. Back to the Lh door and the hasp was in position ready to accept door before hasp pulls it in. Here lay the problem why the door stuck out.

I then used the snap-on functional test setting the test the Lh door. To my surprise the power latch worked to pull the door in flush. So the motor is working.

Opening and closing the door manually, it works fine, shuts fully flush without the power latching working. At least I’m water tight now!

The other thing I picked up on was the lh side door doesn’t show as open when it is open, on the driver info image. rh side shows as normal. It is like the system doesn’t know what the door position is, so can’t do the necessary next step. Does anyone know if the door position relayed via the sliding door contact plates or by micro switch somewhere else?

Not being the best on the electrical side, can anybody pick out anything worth noting from the screenshots of the snap-on scan?

The fact the motor operated on the function test, does that automatically mean the other bits in the system like the door latch or module control are fine?

Tomorrows plan is to clean up those door contacts, not that they look at all in poor condition and go from there. Possible next step is to get the door latch out and see if there is anything obviously wrong.

Any ideas, thoughts or knowledge greatly appreciated. And obviously if I can fix anything I’ll update other relevant threads (door contacts/sliding door/something else)

 

[oldiebut goodie]

 

[roadtripper]

I'd work your way through the wiring checking for any loose connections and faults, sounds like either a failing wire or a switch.

Check all the fuses are intact and seated well as well.

 

[n10n]

so, that didn’t work unfortunately @n10n

ok so unfortunately not an easy/quick fix then.

I’ve done a bit of invest with a borrowed snap-on tester which a friend kindly let me borrow. From what little I know all the related codes to do with the door are saying intermittent. Took the carpeted door panels off (with hidden screws…shit job) and had a root around. Noticed on the rh side door that was working properly, with the power latching, that the hasp spins 180° at the end. Back to the Lh door and the hasp was in position ready to accept door before hasp pulls it in. Here lay the problem why the door stuck out.

I then used the snap-on functional test setting the test the Lh door. To my surprise the power latch worked to pull the door in flush. So the motor is working.

I read that as some of the sensor / position status is not read correctly so the door control module does not know what to do.

The other thing I picked up on was the lh side door doesn’t show as open when it is open, on the driver info image. rh side shows as normal. It is like the system doesn’t know what the door position is, so can’t do the necessary next step. Does anyone know if the door position relayed via the sliding door contact plates or by micro switch somewhere else?

Yes.

Central locking and door contact switch (open / close status) goes via the door contact plate. However there's also position reader in the upper part of the door that tracks the movement of the door in electric slider case, see #4 in Power-closing door problems. I think the status to the dash comes via contact plate though.

Not being the best on the electrical side, can anybody pick out anything worth noting from the screenshots of the snap-on scan?

The fact the motor operated on the function test, does that automatically mean the other bits in the system like the door latch or module control are fine?

There's lot of codes and both from data transfer and power side. I think that means the issue is either in the wiring or the door control module - the actuators such as latches and motors are likely to be just fine. There was a recent case where control module had water ingress - in that case door was completely dead. However water could cause intermittent issues and contact corrosion as well.

 

[huxwar]

ok so unfortunately not an easy/quick fix then.


I read that as some of the sensor / position status is not read correctly so the door control module does not know what to do.


Yes.

Central locking and door contact switch (open / close status) goes via the door contact plate. However there's also position reader in the upper part of the door that tracks the movement of the door in electric slider case, see #4 in Power-closing door problems. I think the status to the dash comes via contact plate though.


There's lot of codes and both from data transfer and power side. I think that means the issue is either in the wiring or the door control module - the actuators such as latches and motors are likely to be just fine. There was a recent case where control module had water ingress - in that case door was completely dead. However water could cause intermittent issues and contact corrosion as well.

Thanks for the thoughts bud. I’d somehow missed that particular power closing thread. Will sift through that tonight. I had looked at the one taking the door lock mechanism apart, with a decent YouTube vid, and cleaning the inbuilt microswitch. I’ll see what I find and relay back any findings