Solar Panel for Skyline roof
- Thread starter Minkyt5
- Start date
This is our 160W solar panel on a Reimo Easyfit LWB roof:
It's a Carbest (Reimo) Product number: 85329. 160W Ultra-flexible. It is bonded to the roof. Chosen because:
More details here in PDF catalogue. https://www.reimo.com/de/bilder/Carbest_Katalog_2018_EN_Web.pdf See page 4. Power Panel Flex 160 Pro black.
Not the cheapest but I am very pleased with the performance.
Hope this helps.
D.
It's a Carbest (Reimo) Product number: 85329. 160W Ultra-flexible. It is bonded to the roof. Chosen because:
- All black finish
- Ultra Flexible
- High voltage output which is advantageous using an MPPT charge controller (I use a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15)
- EFTE coating making it tough and with high light transmittance due to honeycomb structure. More info here: ETFE - Wikipedia
- Can be walked on when bonded flat (not that useful but must be tough!)
- Heat-resistant up to circa. 150 °C (I have measured the surface temperature when we had the 28 deg C days with direct sun and it was 62 deg. C.)
- Thin 3mm
- Light
More details here in PDF catalogue. https://www.reimo.com/de/bilder/Carbest_Katalog_2018_EN_Web.pdf See page 4. Power Panel Flex 160 Pro black.
Not the cheapest but I am very pleased with the performance.
Hope this helps.
D.
FYI - just been quoted around £850 for a 300w solar going into a cute system. Welcome any feedback on this, my camper - when finished will be fairly standard set-up.
Cheers
CZ.
Cheers
CZ.
cute = CTEK, autotype...
to carry on this thread... and add a cheeky question,...
Thinking about running 2 leisure batteries... 1 under drivers seat and 1 in kitchen units, to charge from mains, car running and 300w solar... maybe 2 90ah , Any thoughts on this... overkill? would 1 180ah batter be better?
Cheers
CZ.
Thinking about running 2 leisure batteries... 1 under drivers seat and 1 in kitchen units, to charge from mains, car running and 300w solar... maybe 2 90ah , Any thoughts on this... overkill? would 1 180ah batter be better?
Cheers
CZ.
I fitted the panel below and very please with it. At weekend got 12.5amps from victron MPPT that it is connected to
Link: NDS 200W LightSolar LSE Solar Panel - bottom junction box
Link: NDS 200W LightSolar LSE Solar Panel - bottom junction box
Victron BlueSolar MPPT 75/15 Controller:
plenty of info on the forum regarding solar panels. A quick search will provide more reading material than you can shake a stick at. A good start would be @Dellmassive "how to's" I would say this, from past experience when/if you go down the flexible panel route, fix it with a view to getting it off in the not too distant future, they aren't the most reliable articles.
I have just finished fitting the 200w Photonic Universe reverse junction box panel. With the Renogy 50w DC to DC charger and MPPT controller performing all it’s switching duties the panel is performing great so far. Not been able to test it under load yet but the integrity of the Sikaflexed attachment was tested up to 80mph on Saturday with no problems. it’s very flat on the pop top. No more than 3mm of height. So for anyone with headroom issues, like me, it’s perfect.
@Qnapper where does the cable come out on that panel? Is it in the middle of the short side at the back of the panel? I'm looking for an upgrade to my 100W panel that has a cable exit on the rear, It needs to have a voc of less than 32v to work with my redarc DC/DC charger and that NDS panel looks like a viable option so long as the exit suits where I already have a hole.
Didn't the last budget announce that they were making solar panels VAT free? Going to be a decent discount if so.
Residential solar panels yes, but not ones you buy to fit yourself. They have to be installed as part of a system fitted by a 'professional'
Phew!! Thanks @Grim Reaper. I was just about to cut my throat.
Took me a couple of months to save for that one and finally bought it just before the budget.
Thanks @Qnapper,It looks similar to my existing 100W one, just mine is on the long side and fits nicely at the rear of the roof.
If I replace it with a 200W one I'll have to change the vinyl to suit.
If I replace it with a 200W one I'll have to change the vinyl to suit.
I think it will fit fine and very close to what you have fitted size wise. The différance from 100watts is great, at the weekend I got from 8/12.5amps at midday and topped my battery by 2pm after taking loads out using the inverter for lunch.
The panel measurements Length x Width x Height: 1488 x 673 x 4 mm
The panel measurements Length x Width x Height: 1488 x 673 x 4 mm
matt-lethargic
Member
OMG this could be the most perfect post I've seen for me in a long time!!
I'm getting my van back tomorrow with an Skyline Aurora LWB pop top which has ridges just like the ones in @Grim Reaper s post above. I have also bought the 200w solar panel that @slocumjoseph has done, above some more.
I've spoken to Ben @ Photonic Universe and he said that the panel needs to be fully supported below or it'll warp and/or crack.
I'm posting because I'm not 100% of how I'm going to attach and wanted some thoughts.
My idea so far is to get some correx or similar and bond that to the roof between ridges then bond panel to that fully bonding the front so no air can get under and leaving back open to allow for air to expand and escape.
Thoughts?
I'm getting my van back tomorrow with an Skyline Aurora LWB pop top which has ridges just like the ones in @Grim Reaper s post above. I have also bought the 200w solar panel that @slocumjoseph has done, above some more.
I've spoken to Ben @ Photonic Universe and he said that the panel needs to be fully supported below or it'll warp and/or crack.
I'm posting because I'm not 100% of how I'm going to attach and wanted some thoughts.
My idea so far is to get some correx or similar and bond that to the roof between ridges then bond panel to that fully bonding the front so no air can get under and leaving back open to allow for air to expand and escape.
Thoughts?
Strange then that PVLogic should suggest leaving air gap behind their panels.. suggestion is to leave at least 5mm gap (use some 5mm tile spacers embedded in the adhesive to stop it squashing down any further)
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