Solar Panel Values / Sterling Charger doubts [RESOLVED]

KR.

Senior Member
T6 Guru
Last week I had a 160W flexible panel fitted to the van with a Victron 100/20 Smart Solar Charger and I've just been looking at a weeks history on the Victron App.
It's a wet cloudy October so far and I'm in south Central Scotland so not expecting to see 160W worth of power but just wondering if these figures are in the right area?
Average I would say is about 30-40Wh per day, max 60Wh, min 0 - which could have been a particularly rainy cloudy day among rainy cloudy days. I've managed 250Wh in total in the last week. Pmax has been 31W, Vmax 19.26V. Do they look okay?
My battery is showing in the app at a min 12.38v, max 13.53v, both on a day when I was away and using the van. Looking at the daily states it has not gone into Float at any point. I drove home about 200 miles/3.5 hours on the the min/max day but I presume it won't register that the Sterling has managed to get it high enough to hit Float, as I would hope it did.
 
Seems plausible to me if the weather was very poor although you’ll have to wait for some better weather to get a better idea if the system is functioning as expected!

In general, it can be hard to interpret these kind of numbers because, if the battery is full enough (>80%ish) then the charger will naturally taper down the current it outputs so that can become the limiting factor rather than the solar panel output. However, in your case if your max voltage at the battery is only 13.53v, then it seems as though it’s never got out of bulk charging all week so it likely is limited purely by the panel. This is guesswork operating on the basis of limited information though...
 
As an aside, I’m confused by the driving bit and the 13.53v max voltage. I’d expect a DC-DC converter to get above that over a 3.5hr drive in most scenarios. What system do you actually have and is it set correctly for your battery type?
 
As an aside, I’m confused by the driving bit and the 13.53v max voltage. I’d expect a DC-DC converter to get above that over a 3.5hr drive in most scenarios. What system do you actually have and is it set correctly for your battery type?

Thanks, I see what you mean but I'm confused whether we're looking at the voltage of the leisure battery (13.5v good) or the Sterling BB1230 which should be up around 15.0v (13.5v bad). I've a Lion 100ah leisure battery which I am looking to improve on but hopefully not yet. Looking at the battery then I think the Sterling should be on a Calcium profile which I'm sure it is last time I delved into the settings.
 
I've just reset the Sterling to default and checked it's on Calcium profile. What may be relevant is that there are no Input LEDs, output LEDS lit are 15.4, 14.2 and 13.8. The top light 15.4 is faint but looks like it's on (the charger is under my seat so dark in there). I took the voltages a couple of weeks back and nothing physical has changed except for the addition of Solar further on in the chain - input voltage at the charger was 14.44v, output was 13.0v with the same LED indications.
Apart from checking the profile after resetting is there anything else needs doing in a EU6 van? I admit to resetting the Sterling a couple of times when I was getting my head round the manual about a month or so ago, perhaps I should have left it alone as it has worked will since getting the van in January. I've been giving the battery a mains charge once a week before heading out, not because of any apparent issues but to help with getting the fridge cooled down on the mains before heading off for the night.
The lack of input LEDs is concerning as the manual says (top p.9) " if you can only see LEDs on the right column the chances are that you are in an error mode". While the accompanying diagram has the LEDS pictured in the left/right format the BB1230 has the same LEDs in top/bottom format, the unlit left column would match my top (input) LEDs.

The Victron has recorded that the solar panel has provided 20wh powerup until now which is midday, it's daylight but clouded over, wow.
 
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Thanks, I see what you mean but I'm confused whether we're looking at the voltage of the leisure battery (13.5v good) or the Sterling BB1230 which should be up around 15.0v (13.5v bad). I've a Lion 100ah leisure battery which I am looking to improve on but hopefully not yet. Looking at the battery then I think the Sterling should be on a Calcium profile which I'm sure it is last time I delved into the settings.

What are you using to measure the voltage? Everything I've seen just measures straight voltage across the terminals and so can't distinguish between 'natural' battery voltage and charger voltages.
 
I've just reset the Sterling to default and checked it's on Calcium profile. What may be relevant is that there are no Input LEDs, output LEDS lit are 15.4, 14.2 and 13.8. The top light 15.4 is faint but looks like it's on (the charger is under my seat so dark in there). I took the voltages a couple of weeks back and nothing physical has changed except for the addition of Solar further on in the chain - input voltage at the charger was 14.44v, output was 13.0v with the same LED indications.
Apart from checking the profile after resetting is there anything else needs doing in a EU6 van? I admit to resetting the Sterling a couple of times when I was getting my head round the manual about a month or so ago, perhaps I should have left it alone as it has worked will since getting the van in January. I've been giving the battery a mains charge once a week before heading out, not because of any apparent issues but to help with getting the fridge cooled down on the mains before heading off for the night.
The lack of input LEDs is concerning as the manual says (top p.9) " if you can only see LEDs on the right column the chances are that you are in an error mode". While the accompanying diagram has the LEDS pictured in the left/right format the BB1230 has the same LEDs in top/bottom format, the unlit left column would match my top (input) LEDs.

The Victron has recorded that the solar panel has provided 20wh powerup until now which is midday, it's daylight but clouded over, wow.

I'm not familiar with calcium batteries but from what I've managed to google, they rely on really quite high charging voltages. I assume your solar controller is set to some kind of suitable mode for the battery? On the Sterling DC-DC, I'm afraid I've never used one of those specifically but if the LEDs indicate it's in some kind of error condition that may explain why the max recorded voltage over your long drive was only 13.5v and it might explain why your battery never made it to float. I guess puzzle through the manual and try and work out what it's complaining about?
 
The battery voltage after driving (13.53v) was from the Victron app. The input/output voltages were measured at the Sterling terminals.

I've had a look at the manual, it says :
Note - if you can only see LEDs on the right column the chances are you are in an error mode. This could be down to : Very low output voltages (<5v), no output connection, reverse polarity or the device is not detecting a valid operational mode as the connector wire is either not connected or the connection configuration is wrong. Please refer to previous page.

Previous page refers to modes and wirings, reference to this shows my charger is set to Mode 1 (automatic activation/default setting).

Pressing the Setup/Enter button for 0-1s brings up the status/fault display, I've done that and LEDs indicate :

Engine off
11 Steady 15.4/Desulfication
10 Steady 15.1/Calcium
16 Flash 15.4/High Volt (in)
Engine on
11 Steady 15.4/Desulfication
16 Flash 15.4/High volt (in)

Those mean nothing to me, I don't see any indications of how to decipher them.

At 11.20am with a unclouded blue sky and no shade over the panels I'm seeing 25w. The solar clearly isn't going to contribute much just now and with the Sterling status unsure I better stick it on hook up before my two days up north. 1 out of 3 charging methods available isn't good.
 
The battery voltage after driving (13.53v) was from the Victron app. The input/output voltages were measured at the Sterling terminals.

I've had a look at the manual, it says :
Note - if you can only see LEDs on the right column the chances are you are in an error mode. This could be down to : Very low output voltages (<5v), no output connection, reverse polarity or the device is not detecting a valid operational mode as the connector wire is either not connected or the connection configuration is wrong. Please refer to previous page.

Previous page refers to modes and wirings, reference to this shows my charger is set to Mode 1 (automatic activation/default setting).

Pressing the Setup/Enter button for 0-1s brings up the status/fault display, I've done that and LEDs indicate :

Engine off
11 Steady 15.4/Desulfication
10 Steady 15.1/Calcium
16 Flash 15.4/High Volt (in)
Engine on
11 Steady 15.4/Desulfication
16 Flash 15.4/High volt (in)

Those mean nothing to me, I don't see any indications of how to decipher them.

At 11.20am with a unclouded blue sky and no shade over the panels I'm seeing 25w. The solar clearly isn't going to contribute much just now and with the Sterling status unsure I better stick it on hook up before my two days up north. 1 out of 3 charging methods available isn't good.

Sorry, just to clarify - was the 13.53v over driving just an instantaneous voltage after the drive or was it the max recorded over the day? If the former, it could be fine, if the latter it could still be fine but seems odd.

A 160w solar panel giving 25w with a clear sky seems a little on the low side, but if there's no actual direct sun, it could be fine. Equally, if the battery is relatively full it could also be fine.

With regard to the Sterling, I don't know anything about the error codes on that unit but as a starting point, I would simply measure the voltage before ignition, start the engine and then measure the voltage when running and check it's doing something. Assuming it is functioning, the LEDs on it might also then indicate whether the battery is in bulk/absorption/float. If you can turn off or disconnect the solar input somehow whilst doing this it will be more obvious what's going on - if you do this, let the battery stand for fifteen minutes or so after you disconnect the solar it to let the voltage settle to measure it before starting the engine.
 
t0mb0 the 13.53v was the max recorded over that day by the Victron app. I have a Smart Battery Sense Monitor connected to the battery.
I've been out for the last couple of hours, it was as good a day as you'll get in my location at this time of year - 31W max recorded off the solar panels although the yield has recorded the max for the week or so I've had solar at 80wh - and it does indicate it moved from Bulk to Absorption. The van is back on my drive in the shade and currently showing 5w and still in absorption mode. I think it's fair to say that the solar yield isn't very good, but it works. I can't move my house and won't be moving my parking space so that's that.

Regarding the Sterling, I've ran a few checks.
Engine off - Starter battery 12.31v (checked 40A fuse to Sterling - OK), Sterling input 12.3v, Sterling output 13.2v, Leisure battery 13.28v.
Engine on - Starter battery 14.68v, Sterling input 14.68v, Sterling output 13.2v.

Still no input LEDs and LEDs 16, 18 (14.2v) and 19 ((13.8v) illuminated on Output voltage (again that 16 is suspicious as it's not a bright light but I can see it).
From manual :
(LEDs) 16-24. Has 3 functions: Firstly during operation they show the output voltage. Secondly, if an alarm is present the alarm shows up, Thirdly, setup ....
Its general function is as an output voltmeter, in the event 2 LEDs are on the voltage is between the two settings if the top or bottom red LED is
on then the voltage is outside the parameters of the voltmeter.
LED 16 High voltage, if on solid it is high output voltage


Using that information LED 16 is an indication of high output voltage outside the parameters of the units inbuilt voltmeter. Yet the unit has 2 LEDs indicating that the
voltage is around 14v and I've measured it at 13.2v. And I've no input LED indication. LED indications present whether engine on or off.

It's fair to say I'm stumped.
 
Using the Sterling You Tube video I've turned the unit off and left if for over 5 mins, the BB1230 is different from the 1260 in the video and after 10 minutes I still had a flashing blue at the top and the two bright blue lights at the Setup / Select buttons remained on. Mmm. Followed the rest of it and no change. The output voltage is mirroring the leisure battery state regardless of the input voltage. I suspect the reason is in the manual on page 14, Troubleshooting.

3) The BB is not working.
 
Using the Sterling You Tube video I've turned the unit off and left if for over 5 mins, the BB1230 is different from the 1260 in the video and after 10 minutes I still had a flashing blue at the top and the two bright blue lights at the Setup / Select buttons remained on. Mmm. Followed the rest of it and no change. The output voltage is mirroring the leisure battery state regardless of the input voltage. I suspect the reason is in the manual on page 14, Troubleshooting.

3) The BB is not working.

I'm not familiar with the Sterling unit but if the output always mirrors the leisure battery voltage (or in this case, the solar charger output voltage - I'm assuming that's still hooked up from the high voltage?) then it doesn't seem like it's doing anything.

My only guess would be, based on your "LED 16 is an indication of high output voltage outside the parameters of the units inbuilt voltmeter", is that the Sterling is maybe measuring the output voltage of the solar controller (which is obviously higher than a natural voltage for the battery) and maybe registering this as some kind of fault and therefore not starting? This would be a bit strange given these kind of chargers work fine in parallel in my experience, but, again, I have no experience of the Sterling unit. My only suggestion would be to repeat the experiment with the solar definitely disconnected (pull fuse, switch charger off, even sling something over the panel as a last resort!) and see if it changes.
 
Thanks T0mb0, solar switched off through the app, EHU disconnected (I was charging before heading up north this afternoon, Sterling switched off and letting the battery settle, I'll reset and try again. My Sterling unit doesn't mirror the videos online, it has the two Setup/Enter & Select buttons underneath a red panel rather than on top of the unit, following the instructions I'm not getting to the stage where the unit actually has no LEDS, last night I left it for 10 minutes and the Setup/Enter & Select blue lights were still on as was the Standby flashing light at the top. That isn't for you as you're not a Sterling user but if anyone could chip in with their experience that would help.

Update
Left the battery to settle for over 30 minutes, went out to the unit, switched on, reset, same old same old. Input voltages change from 12.2 to 14.6v, output doesn't change. No input LEDS, LED16 illuminated.
Van back up on hookup, I'll need to be frugal with my power usage up north given that I've no way of recharging my battery. What a pain in the jack. If I've to buy a new charger I will not be best pleased.
 
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Thanks T0mb0, solar switched off through the app, EHU disconnected (I was charging before heading up north this afternoon, Sterling switched off and letting the battery settle, I'll reset and try again. My Sterling unit doesn't mirror the videos online, it has the two Setup/Enter & Select buttons underneath a red panel rather than on top of the unit, following the instructions I'm not getting to the stage where the unit actually has no LEDS, last night I left it for 10 minutes and the Setup/Enter & Select blue lights were still on as was the Standby flashing light at the top. That isn't for you as you're not a Sterling user but if anyone could chip in with their experience that would help.

Update
Left the battery to settle for over 30 minutes, went out to the unit, switched on, reset, same old same old. Input voltages change from 12.2 to 14.6v, output doesn't change. No input LEDS, LED16 illuminated.
Van back up on hookup, I'll need to be frugal with my power usage up north given that I've no way of recharging my battery. What a pain in the jack. If I've to buy a new charger I will not be best pleased.

Ok, it does look like the Sterling unit isn't charging then, irrespective of what the solar is doing. Let's hope someone who knows the Sterling unit specifically can chip in and help.
 
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All the mentions of Sterling on here seem to relate to problems with it. There’s probably a reason most self builders don’t consider one.
 
Not sure if this is a full resolution or not, but...
The solar panel is working as well as can be expected for location and time of year, it's regularly topped my battery up into float condition, I wouldn't want to rely on it to charge from 50% to full just now but for the time of year it's doing its job.
The Sterling? Definitely knacked, a section in the manual refers to calibration issues and return to Sterling. I'm not going to bother, it's coming out tomorrow and being replaced with a Victron DC charger. I'm not sure what has caused the Sterling to go tits up, it worked well and then didn't...
Many thanks to @t0mb0 who pointed out there was an issue with the unit before it had dawned on me.
 
Not sure if this is a full resolution or not, but...
The solar panel is working as well as can be expected for location and time of year, it's regularly topped my battery up into float condition, I wouldn't want to rely on it to charge from 50% to full just now but for the time of year it's doing its job.
The Sterling? Definitely knacked, a section in the manual refers to calibration issues and return to Sterling. I'm not going to bother, it's coming out tomorrow and being replaced with a Victron DC charger. I'm not sure what has caused the Sterling to go tits up, it worked well and then didn't...
Many thanks to @t0mb0 who pointed out there was an issue with the unit before it had dawned on me.

Cheers KR, happy to help! It’s funny how a query about a solar panel turned up a duff DC-DC...
 
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