What's the best type of sound deadening to use in this application?
What's the best type of sound deadening to use in this application?
Does sound deadening the arches make much difference, especially when it's carpeted inside? i.e can you tell the difference?We always use Dynamat on the arches, as it sticks far better then other brands
To be honest I didn’t find any difference once I complete the job above and my van has been carpeted inside with no Dynamat or silent coat over the wheel arches, just carpet.Does sound deadening the arches make much difference, especially when it's carpeted inside? i.e can you tell the difference?
Does sound deadening the arches make much difference, especially when it's carpeted inside? i.e can you tell the difference?
I've done this very job @xpfloyd @phil_n @Scruffy and this is a cut and paste from a previous thread.
Jack the van up, wheel off then there's four screws that you can see on the face of the liner and two bolts just underneath the van. Pull the arch liner out and give the metal work a good clean with a alcohol based cleaner.
The cable you can see unclips and the clips then unscrew so you don't have to stick around them.
It's then just a case of cutting strips of Dynamat or Silent Coat into manageable lengths and roll it on as firmly as you can. Don't be tempted to do too bigger piece as it won't go on very well. I found pieces between 6" and 3" wide best and in various lengths depending on the surface shape.
To be honest it's not made much if any difference. I was expecting this and plan on adding a layer of Dodo Pro Barrier MLV as recommended by some on top. (Not 100% sure all this will fit so will be a case of trial and error).
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Hi, I was just following this tread and took your suggestion to add some Dodo Pro Barrier MLV over the top of the Silent Coat. Did you ever do it and if so how do you stick the Dodo Pro Barrier to the Silent coat base? The Dodo Pro Barrier MLV I have doesn't appear to have a sticky side. I'm aiming at doing as much in one job as possible. Getting my 20" wheels off is a pain the backside
Cheers.
I was advised by a professional converter that Dynamat is preferable to Silent Coat in external applications as it has better adhesion.
I’ve used Dynamat Xtreme on;
Front arches (externally).
Front door skins plus inner door frames.
Front wings which as easy to do with the front wheel arch liners out. I’m not sure if the wings are creating noise in the cab but given a tap they are very noisy panels.
10mm acoustic foam on front door cards.
I’m about to do the rear arches externally with Dynamat Xtreme and will probably use left over 10mm foam on the rear arch liners.
I added 10mm self adhesive acoustic foam to the front arch liners today, from the top down to the rear, the front half left bare. It made a noticeable difference for very little cost and time. There was no requirement to use longer screws as cut out for the body flange and two pads on the liner.
All arches are now externally fitted with Dynamat Xtreme, rear liners completely covered with 10mm foam and front liners covered 50%.
Both doors are done with Dynamat Xtreme and 10mm foam on the cards.
Both front wings are done with Dynamat, they ring like a cymbal when bare, not sure how much was entering the cab so did them anyway.
Rest of the van was done professionally with Silent Coat and foam except the cab floor which I’ll be leaving for now.
Next I’m doing the front steps and scuttle.
I highly recommend foam coating the arch liners.