Starting issues and Gearbox Noise

Deaky

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I reported some strange starting issues after fitting a digidash here

Over the week end I've removed the digidash because I couldn't confirm the ghost operation as the abs light on the digidash doesn't flash to confirm the code on the ghost is correct. After the swap I got two flashes on the cluster and the van started first time. I wondered if it was the digidash causing issues with my ghost.

After a short drive the van failed to start, the cluster flashes as it should to indicate the ghost is disarmed but the engine goes to start but doesn't. Different to how it would if I'd got the code wrong.

With an incorrect code the engine will fire up then die straight away. Occasionally this happens but most of the time it's like it turns over once and stops. Eventually it will start. I was able to drive home, it's fine once it's going.

I have the starter battery on charge at the moment but after a few minutes it's dropped in to absorption mode so I guess it's pretty full. I'll post some videos up tomorrow.

I haven't scanned it yet, any pointers on where to look. I'll be removing the ghost too to rule that out.
 
Ghost removed, issue seems sorted. Started it 6-7 times without issue. Spoke to the guy who installed my ghost to confirm where it was. Snip one wire and it’s disabled o_O
 
do you think the ghost is messing with the digital dash then? ( or the dash messing with the Ghost to be more precise)

seeing as the dash is part of the vans immobilizer?
 
I dunno Lee. I removed the dash and put the original cluster back in. The digidash shouldn't have affected the ghost because the cluster mother board is still plugged in, just a few wires in the loom are spliced over to the board that controls the digidash LCD. As far as the van is concerned, nothing has changed.

I think maybe it was coincidence. My ghost was a V1 and has been fitted for 7 years.

I'm still not ruling out the culprit being something else. I've charged the starter battery today, it's still on the original. When it was failing to start, all the lights stayed on on the dash and the headlights so nothing indicated a low battery. I've also disconnected the battery for a while when I was removing the ghost so that could of reset something maybe.

I'm just happy it's starting and now I can get the gearbox looked at :cry:
 
So....... Took a couple of turns of the key to get the van going this morning. First turn, nothing happened. Second turn I got a message on the MDF saying 'Starting Engine' then it fired up. I've left it running with VW. They're going to run some tests on the battery - it's still the original. Thing I'm concerned about is if you disconnect the starter battery, all the dash lights and radio stay on, almost as if the leisure battery is still powering the system. If you turn the key in this state the everything goes off. It's almost like my Orion is leaking some voltage back to the starter. For now I've disconnected the leisure battery but it's something I need to look in to.

Re the gearbox clunking. I took a technician out and he is fairly confident its the sub frame on the gearbox, which I suppose is good news
 
Somethings got to be letting power get back, do you have any contingency to keep the starter battery charged like an AMT or otherwise ?
If not then it has to be the dcdc unit as typically thats the only thing linking the two unless its crossing over on a circuit somewhere like dual powered lights or headunit etc ?
 
Somethings got to be letting power get back, do you have any contingency to keep the starter battery charged like an AMT or otherwise ?
If not then it has to be the dcdc unit as typically thats the only thing linking the two unless its crossing over on a circuit somewhere like dual powered lights or headunit etc ?
I do have a starter charger hooked up to the load output on my victron MPPT but I thought that was off. The HU is on the SB but the amp is on the LB, they are linked by the remote cable. Only other thing is the courtesy lighting but these should be isolated with a diode. A bit more digging I think.
 
Got a call from VW today. They now suspect it's a seized flywheel which has damaged the clutch pack. £4k to repair. They've also recoded the keys and recommending a new battery as mine is still the original.
 
Got a call from VW today. They now suspect it's a seized flywheel which has damaged the clutch pack. £4k to repair. They've also recoded the keys and recommending a new battery as mine is still the original.
I had a quote of 4K for a clutch and flywheel module from VW. Local Indy did it for 1K. They used new LUK kit.
 
Still waiting for authorisation from VW. They have now requested the gearbox is removed and photo's sent o_O
 
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