Stuck Hex Bolt

Euge

2017 T6 Panel Van
VIP Member
Does anyone know what these two bolts are for by the tailgate of ex RAC T6? They are hefty and have a metal plate. I’ve removed one and the other is stuck fast.

IMG_4959.jpeg
 
They look like they go into the OEM anchor fixings. On my T30 is was a flimsey plate riveted to the chassis holding a weld nut.

I’d try and look underneath to see if you can get to spray some penetrating fluid on it and/or get some grips on the square weld nut.
 
If the above good ideas don't work, if the ply floor is on a one way trip to the tip I'd use a blow torch and warm the bolt up before trying again. Stand by with a bucket of water.
You might be able to tap the bolt head round with a sharp chisel, that often works on a bolt that you don't need to save.
 
Stilson wrench is my favourite go-to tool for this type of thing. With a scaffold tube extension if needed.
 
if the plys getting binned cut the ply out first and your get a pair of grips on it then stilsons are the dogs as oldie said the more pressure you use the better they grip
 
if the plys getting binned cut the ply out first and your get a pair of grips on it then stilsons are the dogs as oldie said the more pressure you use the better they grip
Yeah the floor is for the top, it’s filthy. I’ll look at cutting the floor out. I’m wondering what they hold up as they’re way too big for floor securing. Are they just anchor points and not needed?
 
Yeah the floor is for the top, it’s filthy. I’ll look at cutting the floor out. I’m wondering what they hold up as they’re way too big for floor securing. Are they just anchor points and not needed?
Yes, they’re the OEM anchor points. My Rock and Roll bed is bolted in using the 4 rear ones 2 left, 2 right)….
 
Try a manual impact driver to get it started or if you just want it out and are not bothered about using the anchor point grind it off.
 
I'd usually grind/drill the head off.
Lift the ply.
Wd40 on the threads overnight and then a vice grip to remove it.
 
Re two replies above - if the nut part is like what I pictured above then force will simply rip the weldnut/plate out of the chassis and you’ll just have a spinning assembly.

I’d gain access from underneath and see what you’re dealing with.
 
One of the bolts go straight into the channel and is protected from the elements, most likely the one you managed to remove.
One of them per side is open to the elements.
I’d cut the excess thread off from underneath and hope that some of the heat generated from the cutting will assist in the removal.
 
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