That'll Polish Out Mate.
- Thread starter Teesix
- Start date
They do a metallic T-cut.
It's the clear lacquer top coat you will be working with.
I've used T-cut and cutting compound on reflex silver with no issues......(by hand and with a DA polisher)
But..
You need to know what you are doing...
Watch some YouTube videos to get an idea before you hit the paint with your 110v DA sander.!!!!
It's the clear lacquer top coat you will be working with.
I've used T-cut and cutting compound on reflex silver with no issues......(by hand and with a DA polisher)
But..
You need to know what you are doing...
Watch some YouTube videos to get an idea before you hit the paint with your 110v DA sander.!!!!
Ah, they do a metallic version? Thanks for that.
I don't have any power tools to assist so I'll be doing it by hand.
I'll go and have a look on YT.......
Nice one. That looks like the sort of stuff I'm after.
@Teesix.....all good advice above mate....but if I can offer some advice. Start off gently....I've got G3....which is great stuff but go steady with it! Without going into a huge lecture on the subject, if you're not comfortable, always start with something a little gentler....Meguiars do a full range of polishes/cutting compounds.....even Autoglym paint restorer might be gentler than G3. Remember to fully "break down" the polish....ie, keep working it a bit at a time so that the cutting/polishing components of whatever you use become finer and finer. A big mistake people make is to slap a load of jollop on and then fail to break it down into finer and finer particles. Stop frequently to inspect your work.....I know I'm stating the bleeding obvious but you don't want to "strike through" your clear coat.....I've done it and it's a p*sser!!!! If you can, buy a DA (I have one and they're brill!) and as @Dellmassive intimated, go steady. You'll have far less chance of "striking through" with a DA than an orbital....they're for the big boys!
Go steady and you'll be fine mate.....hope that all makes some sense? Shout out if you're unsure!! Good luck!
Go steady and you'll be fine mate.....hope that all makes some sense? Shout out if you're unsure!! Good luck!
@Teesix.....all good advice above mate....but if I can offer some advice. Start off gently....I've got G3....which is great stuff but go steady with it! Without going into a huge lecture on the subject, if you're not comfortable, always start with something a little gentler....Meguiars do a full range of polishes/cutting compounds.....even Autoglym paint restorer might be gentler than G3. Remember to fully "break down" the polish....ie, keep working it a bit at a time so that the cutting/polishing components of whatever you use become finer and finer. A big mistake people make is to slap a load of jollop on and then fail to break it down into finer and finer particles. Stop frequently to inspect your work.....I know I'm stating the bleeding obvious but you don't want to "strike through" your clear coat.....I've done it and it's a p*sser!!!! If you can, buy a DA (I have one and they're brill!) and as @Dellmassive intimated, go steady. You'll have far less chance of "striking through" with a DA than an orbital....they're for the big boys!
Go steady and you'll be fine mate.....hope that all makes some sense? Shout out if you're unsure!! Good luck!
Top advice mate, thank you.
Yes, I was also looking at the Maguire's but wasn't sure if it was better or worse than the G3. Having read your advice I think I'll likely go with the Maguire's. I don't want to be making things worse!
In terms of breaking it down - do I just do a gentle circular rub or do I rub straight in the direction of the scratch?
Hey @Teesix.....there'll be far more knowledgeable people on here than me and I'm not claiming to be an expert.....okay!! Right, so, I think the purists would say straight lines.....the purists would also say, wipe down with an isopropyl alcohol solution or panel wipe to make sure you've not just filled the scratches before the final waxing....but don't get too hung up on the minutiae. The main thing is "slowly slowly catchee monkey" and BREAK IT DOWN properly. Don't get me wrong, G3 is great....and not having seen yours, it's hard to say.....but always play it safe.....you can always step up a grade but if you go in hard, you could come unstuck. A good thing to do and this is only a rough rule of thumb is spit on or throw some water on the scratch....if they temporarily become invisible, it'll polish out. Like most things though...….ask 5 people what they think...….and you'll get 6 different opinions! When you've done this job.....let's talk about wet sanding....that'll get your blood pressure up!!! Just shout out mate!!
Hey @Teesix.....there'll be far more knowledgeable people on here than me and I'm not claiming to be an expert.....okay!! Right, so, I think the purists would say straight lines.....the purists would also say, wipe down with an isopropyl alcohol solution or panel wipe to make sure you've not just filled the scratches before the final waxing....but don't get too hung up on the minutiae. The main thing is "slowly slowly catchee monkey" and BREAK IT DOWN properly. Don't get me wrong, G3 is great....and not having seen yours, it's hard to say.....but always play it safe.....you can always step up a grade but if you go in hard, you could come unstuck. A good thing to do and this is only a rough rule of thumb is spit on or throw some water on the scratch....if they temporarily become invisible, it'll polish out. Like most things though...….ask 5 people what they think...….and you'll get 6 different opinions! When you've done this job.....let's talk about wet sanding....that'll get your blood pressure up!!! Just shout out mate!!
Thanks Dave
I've just watched a few youtube vids and it looks straight forward enough. The Meguires seems like good stuff and should be more than enough for my needs.
Keep your eye out for a thread which says "Help, I've just f****d my paintwork up!"
Honestly, you'll be fine mate!
I wouldn't touch paint with an orbital polisher if it was the first time you had ever touched one.
I've got a mop swirl on the passenger door that looks like a bit of swarf from where the windows and pop top were fitted has been picked up, it looks like a miniature ice skater has performed a pirouette.
Regarding Farecla G3 it's a lot milder on mature car paint than the standard red bottle T Cut, when using by hand you'll generally develop an achey shoulder long before you cut through the clear coat.
I've got a mop swirl on the passenger door that looks like a bit of swarf from where the windows and pop top were fitted has been picked up, it looks like a miniature ice skater has performed a pirouette.
Regarding Farecla G3 it's a lot milder on mature car paint than the standard red bottle T Cut, when using by hand you'll generally develop an achey shoulder long before you cut through the clear coat.
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