Vehicle battery and CTEK advice

LakelandStu

Member
T6 Pro
Hi,

I've searched the forum and can't find an answer to the following so thought I'd describe it (I'm not an electrical whizz so please keep answers simple for me lol).

I have a T6.1 which I've had for a couple of years, fitted with a tracker (I'm aware the tracker is taking power from the battery). Last winter I didn't drive it much and when I went to start it after a couple of months the battery was low at approx 11.9V (the tracker app measures vehicle battery voltage). Driving over the summer restored some charge but it doesn't last more than a couple of weeks, with the tracker on, so I ended up switching the tracker off.

I've bought a CTEK MXS 5 and hooked it up and it's gone through all 8 stages over about 3 or 4 days, so it is just in recycle mode now. Up to stage 7 the battery got to and stayed at 14+V, as soon as it went into stage 8 it dropped to 12.9 v (with the tracker on). So my questions:
1: Is 12.9V a healthy voltage when not charging?
2: If it's dropping from 14.4V to 12.9V as soon as the CTEK goes 'off charge' does this mean my battery has had it?
3: I've read different views of where to connect the CTEK to the negative terminal. The instructions say to connect to the negative battery post, but other advice says not to. Where is the best place to connect it?

I've attached the battery voltage graph from the app. The spike on the 18th Sept was when the van was driven. The CTEK was connected on the 22nd Sept and is still connected. The drop in voltage as the CTEK reached stage 8 is visible on the 3rd/4th Sept.

FYI - I have a separate v large leisure battery with solar, and that sits comfortably at 12.9V or above depending on sunshine levels. I bought the van pre-converted, and whilst it has a Sargent power management system which can charge the vehicle battery when on hook-up, as best as I can establish the leisure battery is not connected in any way to the vehicle battery.

Thanks in anticipation for your expertise.

Screenshot 2024-10-05 at 08.49.23.png
 
most vans will sit around 12.1v to 12.3v (off charge)

as long as your battery stays above 12.0v you are good.

11.9v is starting to get low. . . and charging will be needed.

a standard AGM battery is good for 3-5years average.

but will last longer if looked after and kept charged. (mins six yrs old now)


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most vans will sit around 12.1v to 12.3v (off charge)

as long as your battery stays above 12.0v you are good.

11.9v is starting to get low. . . and charging will be needed.

a standard AGM battery is good for 3-5years average.

but will last longer if looked after and kept charged. (mins six yrs old now)


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That's great to know thank you!
 
3: I've read different views of where to connect the CTEK to the negative terminal. The instructions say to connect to the negative battery post, but other advice says not to. Where is the best place to connect it?
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defo dont go on the NEG post for the charger. . . . only use the NEG post for a just start.


that becasue the sensor on the battery wont see the power coming in from the charger. . . .


use a chassis NEG point, like ligh bracket bolt or other.


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1728115720328.png1728115749894.png1728115733065.png


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Brilliant - pics help alot - I know what I'll be doing in about 10 minutes ;):p
follow this link for the EARTH thing . . .





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12.9 volts is about the most you will actually get when your battery is not charging. If its on charge or engine running (hence charging through alternator) - it will show about 14.4 volts - but its standard for this to drop straight away when off charge.
As for your battery connection - the Ctek 5 comes with both crocodile clipped lead and a lead with M6 ring terminals. If using the crocs then its advisable to connect the positive straight to the positive terminal and the negative to a bolt on the chassis/framework somewhere away from the battery. This is because the second connection completes a parallel circuit and can cause a spark(s). If its at the battery, a leak of battery gas can explode! Whilst this is uncommon with modern batteries, manufacturers still advise you to make the second connection away from the battery for this reason. Your negative battery terminal will be wired straight onto the chassis/frame anyway so you are really just completing the circuit away from the battery. It is also good practice to make any final connection to a any battery on any vehicle when using jump leads - not directly to the negative terminal for this same reason.
I used the ring terminals on my T6.1 and wired them permanently to existing bolts at the battery terminals. They lead to the small orange female plug which has a rubber cap seal. I just tuck this down into the battery sleeve when not in use. When wiring these - you can go straight to the terminals if the lead is unplugged as there will be no complete circuit and hence no risk of a spark. You may even find existing bolt stubs at your terminals where you can hoop them straight on and fit extra m6 nuts without having to disconnect anything.
When you connect the charger (or extension lead if you've paid extra) - just pop your bonnect, fish out the lead from your battery sleeve and plug it straight in. You may be able to close your bonnet completely by tucking the wire around your headlight.
Lastly make sure you set it to the correct battery type. Its not always easy to tell as there is so much stuff covering the top where the labels are. Unplugging this could lead to some faultcodes requiring resets so unless you’re confident - avoid. I wrongly assumed that my 71 plate T6.1 DSG 150 7 speed with stop/start would have an AGM battery but it doesnt. In fact it has an EFB battery which is a wet battery on the Ctek charge mode. If you have the original battery fitted - your vw commercial parts department will tell you the type over the phone. I believe only Californias have factory AGM batteries but I may be wrong. Maybe those vans with powered doors as well?
CTEKs are great chargers. Unless you are unlucky enough to get a duff one (which is unlikely but not impossible), I would trust it - and with your tracker!
 
Thanks Dave. Useful to know! Re: the AGM. The CTEK auto recognised the battery as an AGM, but will double check!! There was no obvious labelling on it before I hooked up the CTEK and I had assumed AGM given the auto stop/start (mines a manual). Cheers
 
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