Vehicle Battery removal

Ray T6

New Member
Hi, I need to remove my starter battery and want to know what problems might occur when replacing it. I've seen that I may need to reset the one touch window procedure lowering down then up again other than that is there anything else I may need to reset? the battery will probably be disconnected for 1 to 2 hours.
The reason for removing the battery is because I'm planning feed cables through the firewall behind the battery. I have an Ecoflow Detlta 2 battery for camping and have the Ecoflow alternator charger for it so need to connect the alternator charger directly to the starter battery but need to remove the battery to get the cables through from inside the vehicle to the battery compartment. Thanks
 
I drove for a short while, turned left and right full lock, and everything was reset. I had to update the time on the radio.

I ran my cables through from inside the van to the scuttle without removing the battery, but it would have been a bit easier to take it out.
 
I drove for a short while, turned left and right full lock, and everything was reset. I had to update the time on the radio.

I ran my cables through from inside the van to the scuttle without removing the battery, but it would have been a bit easier to take it out.
Ok that’s great thanks, yes I’ve now seen an existing grommet to the scuttle so might use that instead.
Cheers
 
Hi, not driven van for around 3 weeks, opened fine this morning on key fob but come to lock it and is completely dead. Key in ignition and doesn’t even monitor a turn over. Complete silence. Had a suspicion it was on way out with internal lights turning off on opening becoming shorter and shorter.

I’ve no way of jump starting from another car due to the position on drive. Can’t find charger I thought I had but thinking it may be time to change anyway based on the above. So any off the shelf battery recommendations? Looks like I’ll likely be stuck with Halfords who only have 2 options that fit unless Euro parts or similar have stock.

Also I can’t figure out how to unclip the negative terminal - positive has bolt clamp as my other cars but struggling working out how to take negative off - photo attached. Any assistance greatly welcomed.

Finally if I manage to get replacement battery in tomorrow am I going to have coding issues - I’ve seen cadista mentioned on various threads but this isn’t something I have. In fact I’m unsure what it even is.

ThanksIMG_1670.jpegIMG_1668.jpegIMG_1667.jpeg
 
Found the charger. Can I charge with the battery in the van if clamp onto the bolt heads to the rhs of the positive?
 
Found the charger. Can I charge with the battery in the van if clamp onto the bolt heads to the rhs of the positive?
You can charge in the van. Attach positive to the clamp nut or spigot near where the cables attach. The negative needs to be attached to the van chassis, not direct to the battery otherwise you bypass the shunt (the little box on the neg terminal). There is a connection on the side of the engine if your cables reach.

What is the brown wire on the neg terminal? Nothing should be connected here as again it bypasses the shunt.

I suggest having a read of the thread below that covers all your questions:

Upgrading Starter Battery - How to guide
 
As above, no problem charging battery in situ just connect negative clamp to chassis preferably

The box you see looks like a towbar control module and i suspect thats what those additional wires are connected to the battery
When you are done i would recommend relocating the 2 brown wires away from the battery and connect directly to the chassis
 
Hi, thanks for your replies. I ended up taking battery out in the end to charge. Not sure on the earth cable, was there when I bought the van. Out of interest what is the issue in earthing to the terminal?
 
Hi, thanks for your replies. I ended up taking battery out in the end to charge. Not sure on the earth cable, was there when I bought the van. Out of interest what is the issue in earthing to the terminal?
Connecting anything directly to the battery negative terminal bypasses the shunt (the little box by the terminal) which measures all current in/out of the battery. This info is used by the BMS (battery management system) to regulate the charge to the starter battery and manage the smart alternator and stop/start system. If the cable connected directly has any power draw the battery will be flatter than the BMS thinks which could cause issues and ultimately reduce the life of the battery.
 
The brown earth's connected directly to the battery negative post mean that the current drawn by whatever device they provide the negative for will bypass the vans shunt so the ECU won't see any current draw from that device and wrongly guess the starter battery state.
 
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