Victron 75/15 BT with Orion B2B

[T6_FunBus]

Greetings.

As I run an AGM leisure battery, and the van sits for sometimes a week at a time without moving, I want to keep the leisure battery topped up when not driving, so it’s pretty much always ready to go.

I currently run a victron Orion BT non isolated. That sits on a board in front of the battery and connected to the battery via fuse panel and with a good earth point under the floor.

The positive and negative to my fused switch panel is fed directly from the battery terminals.

I am thinking of introducing a 75/15 solar controller. But interested in how it operates and interaces with the Orion.

Assuming the solar controller is converting power from the panel to the battery before I cycle ignition on, when I start the van, the Orion will look at the battery voltage and see if it needs to kick in. Does that mean the solar controller will stay on while driving? As it’s a smart alternator there won’t always be 14v output to the Orion, so if the battery voltage is good it will stay at ‘off’ or float if it needs to. So when or how does the solar cut on or off and do they interfere with each others operation?

I guess what I am trying to figure out, is at what point does the b2b kick in, and at what point does the solar kick in or switch off, as they will both connected separately to the battery at all times with their own method of trying to detect what is going on with the battery!? Or should I connect into say the solar, and disable when driving and try to remember to enable when stationary or leaving the vehicle for a period of time?

I like the idea of a dc load circuit, not sure why they didn’t do that with the Orion.

Also any recommendations on a nice little neat panel to put on the roof that will just keep the battery topped up? Thanks.

 

[Dellmassive]

Initially they will run independently,

As in they will both sample that AGM battery voltage and decide what's needed to charge it. (The solar will trickle charge when the sun is out, and the DC-DC will charge as needed when the engine is running)

I like the analogy of the battery being a leaking bucket, the leak is your loads. And the chargers are trying to fill the bucket up.

Victron also have an advanced feature called VE Smart where the chargers communicate with each other and charge in parallel together.

I'm not sure that the original Orion has that feature, but the mppt do, as dose the new Orion xs.

 

[roadtripper]

Any good quality smart charger, especially from the same vendor, should coexist happily, after all many vans have three (DC-DC, EHU, Solar) no need to worry about disconnecting one or the other.

So the MPPT will be always on and will charge the battery if it has input power and the battery can take charge. Likewise the Orion will be always on and will charge the battery if it has input power (engine running) and the battery can take charge.

 

[Dellmassive]

More info here:

[Guide] Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -

Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It - There is loads of background to this . . . . . but for now here is a vid for you all. =] Just remember W = V*A and as a general rule a good 100W panel will give you up to 6A charge with good sun. 25w = 1.5A 50W = 3A 100w = 6A 200w = 12A 300w = 18A...

www.t6forum.com

.

 

[roadtripper]

I like the idea of a dc load circuit, not sure why they didn’t do that with the Orion.

It's a neat idea and common on solar chargers as they are often used as the single controller in remote off grid locations so it makes sense to include it.

They also tend to run at relatively modest current where adding the feature is quite cheap.

If you want to do the same in a larger battery system you need to switch bigger loads so it tends to be a separate component, but you can still do it such as the Victron Smart BatteryConnnect

 

[T6_FunBus]

Thanks for the replies guys. So essentially, it sounds like I just connect the solar controller also to the battery terminals and just let them both stay ‘on’ and decide what they want to do - no special configuration needed.

That makes sense on the load circuit. It’s a nice feature, as my switch panel is straight to the battery at the moment, so will just run it down until there is nothing left risking damage to the battery.

Now I just need to find a nice near panel kit, and decide where to put it

 

[Dellmassive]

It's a neat idea and common on solar chargers as they are often used as the single controller in remote off grid locations so it makes sense to include it.

They also tend to run at relatively modest current where adding the feature is quite cheap.

If you want to do the same in a larger battery system you need to switch bigger loads so it tends to be a separate component, but you can still do it such as the Victron Smart BatteryConnnect

Victron sell the smart battery disconnect.

It's a separate unit that does just that..... You set the switch off point and it shut the power off.

I've got a couple.....

I need to sell them on now.

With SLA and AGMs it's important not to drop them below 50% SoC as they will be damaged.

 

[Dellmassive]

Thanks for the replies guys. So essentially, it sounds like I just connect the solar controller also to the battery terminals and just let them both stay ‘on’ and decide what they want to do - no special configuration needed.

That makes sense on the load circuit. It’s a nice feature, as my switch panel is straight to the battery at the moment, so will just run it down until there is nothing left risking damage to the battery.

Now I just need to find a nice near panel kit, and decide where to put it

The load output is a function of the mppt rating.

So measure your loads to get the correct mppt.

Ie

Victron 75/15 is 15A limited on the load out.

And 20A for the 100/20.

Above that the drop the load feature.

Take a look at mine
...


The 100/30 doesn't have it.

But the smart battery disconnect come in 60A and 100A.


....






....

 

[ginkster]

Greetings.

As I run an AGM leisure battery, and the van sits for sometimes a week at a time without moving, I want to keep the leisure battery topped up when not driving, so it’s pretty much always ready to go.

I currently run a victron Orion BT non isolated. That sits on a board in front of the battery and connected to the battery via fuse panel and with a good earth point under the floor.

The positive and negative to my fused switch panel is fed directly from the battery terminals.

I am thinking of introducing a 75/15 solar controller. But interested in how it operates and interaces with the Orion.

Assuming the solar controller is converting power from the panel to the battery before I cycle ignition on, when I start the van, the Orion will look at the battery voltage and see if it needs to kick in. Does that mean the solar controller will stay on while driving? As it’s a smart alternator there won’t always be 14v output to the Orion, so if the battery voltage is good it will stay at ‘off’ or float if it needs to. So when or how does the solar cut on or off and do they interfere with each others operation?

I guess what I am trying to figure out, is at what point does the b2b kick in, and at what point does the solar kick in or switch off, as they will both connected separately to the battery at all times with their own method of trying to detect what is going on with the battery!? Or should I connect into say the solar, and disable when driving and try to remember to enable when stationary or leaving the vehicle for a period of time?

I like the idea of a dc load circuit, not sure why they didn’t do that with the Orion.

Also any recommendations on a nice little neat panel to put on the roof that will just keep the battery topped up? Thanks.

I have both and they work together no problem at all and both can just stay on. I have put switches in my system as I have a lifepo4 battery and don’t want/need it sat full all the time and charged up every time I start the van or the sun comes out but that’s not necessary with AGM. They allow me to keep the battery at a suitable storage voltage while I use the van for daily driving. If you haven’t already go the Orion it may be worth a look at the new XS version as it is better in every way and will talk to the MPPT as mentioned above. Make sure the positive cable from battery to MPPT is fused at the battery end.

There are several thread on here about fitting solar panels that are worth a read through. If going for a flexible panel I’d recommend putting a layer of paint protection film down first to allow easier removal if (when!) the panel fails.