Cheers just ordered the kit.
Water Tank - internal or external?
- Thread starter VanBlanc
- Start date
Cheers just ordered the kit.
Can't seem to find the details on their web site. What was the overall cost of the kit?
Yes mate, I used my dermel to cut through and then de-burr the cut edge.
Then I have throughly cleaned and de-greased before applying dynamat(obviously).
Then stuck some 9mm closed foam insulation onto the panel.
Cut holes in the bottom for pipework, ensure you consider how/what you will stand the tank on as the pipe outlets are on the bottom.
I have spent hours checking and rechecking.. as under the cill is a bit of chassis.. so need to avoid that.. from where it sits, I drill everything towards B pillar..then sat the tank on some 2 inch plastic pipe with all feeds in and out inside that.. if that makes sense?
Funny you should say that.. I was putting the photos together last night to try and do a little explanation of what I have done.
@Fish have tou got anymore info now this is done?
If it’s not a griefy job then I’d go for an internal fresh tank over the centre-chassis tank. An offside tank appears to be out of the question now - the Propex installed has run the gas pipes right down the middle of the cill so I don’t think a tank would fit now.
For anyone interested in this tank, this link gives a bit more info:
UK Leisure Parts Ltd. - Reimo waste water tank VW T5 driver's side, 27 litres
Few thinks to note..
1. It is a tight fit and has to be as there are no fixing points, so relies on being a snug fit(unless you foam it in place).
2. Lowest outlet point(for tap) has to be on a 90° elbow to work,therefore needs to be supported on blocks(allowing room for pipe work.
3. The outlet drain point doesn't line up with the bunged hole and the pipe size won't bent to said bung. (I havent used this and rely on the pump to drain tank).
4. The inlet is also very tight and also requires 90° elbow behind the top webbing structure.
5. There is no level sensor, the guys I bought it from rely on the overflow pipe as an indicator.. pants IMO. So put a CBE probe in,see my build thread).
6. All fittings supplied are push fit fittings, these work on pressure to seal joints.. consider that the tank is gravity based and work with compression is possible.
7. I have most of the supplied fittings left over as they didnt work for my use.
8. The drain and outlet are imperial sizes.. so they supplied flex hose and jubilee clips to secure.
9. Mine works perfect but sometime alittle head scratch..
1. It is a tight fit and has to be as there are no fixing points, so relies on being a snug fit(unless you foam it in place).
2. Lowest outlet point(for tap) has to be on a 90° elbow to work,therefore needs to be supported on blocks(allowing room for pipe work.
3. The outlet drain point doesn't line up with the bunged hole and the pipe size won't bent to said bung. (I havent used this and rely on the pump to drain tank).
4. The inlet is also very tight and also requires 90° elbow behind the top webbing structure.
5. There is no level sensor, the guys I bought it from rely on the overflow pipe as an indicator.. pants IMO. So put a CBE probe in,see my build thread).
6. All fittings supplied are push fit fittings, these work on pressure to seal joints.. consider that the tank is gravity based and work with compression is possible.
7. I have most of the supplied fittings left over as they didnt work for my use.
8. The drain and outlet are imperial sizes.. so they supplied flex hose and jubilee clips to secure.
9. Mine works perfect but sometime alittle head scratch..
