What do I need for a full Victron (or comparable) setup?

[Epic-Rob]

What do I need for a full Victron (or comparable) setup?

I thought I would try to standardise everything on my next conversion as appose to a complete mix and match I currently have. Having said that I have a voltronic shunt and display that tells me all I need to know.

Its a std T6 conversion, led, few usb points BUT I will be powering a 1200w induction hob and the Ebike charging but that’s not a great deal.

I have a 250Ah lithium battery (this is built from cells with a BMS attached so not massive) and will have a 170-200w solar panel on the roof

I want to get as much of this under the single front seats, might not get inverter under there I know.


So I will also be wanting

DC/DC charger

Mppt solar charge controller – I want to trickle excess back into starter battery, but if leisure batt is Lithium and starter is lead acid will that work? – is there a combined one?? I did buy a ctek D250SE which is a combined unit but at 20A might be a bit small.

Inverter 1500w should be ok but maybe 2000w to future proof

Shunt meter / display I can mount on wall to easily see, don’t really want to have to get my phone out to see whats going on, but I know you can change settings via Bluetooth

Plus anything i might have missed.

So what products would you recommend?

 

[Dellmassive]

Full Victron setup you say:
then start with this:
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DC-DC: https://amzn.to/3N4qIqo


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MPPT: https://amzn.to/41tvhPB





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SMART SHUNT: https://amzn.to/3L3IGGS





or


BMV712 shunt which has the display with it. . . . : https://amzn.to/3H7SgHw














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Inverter 800w : https://amzn.to/3oCBlGU

you need to have a measure up for space as the 800w/12v + inverters start to get big ( they do a 1200w phoenix too)

(there is a 1600w ans up but you move over to the multiplus range.




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1600w multiplus. : https://amzn.to/3Ai4xpf





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inverter BT module :

https://amzn.to/3H7Kxtf

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EHU 15A charger: https://amzn.to/3oz4Mtt







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[t0mb0]

Victron is generally very good but the Orion DC-DC is a weird weak point in their range - it has oddly low efficiency and so runs extremely hot.

 

[DXX]

So what products would you recommend?

A LWB van with an electrical cabinet!

 

[Dellmassive]

Victron is generally very good but the Orion DC-DC is a weird weak point in their range - it has oddly low efficiency and so runs extremely hot.

Agreed .

 

[Samro]

I agree on the Victron DC-DC charger being a bit "meh"!

I think that it is pointless opting for this product just for the sake of wanting a "Full Victron set up".

My observations with my Victron DC-DC is as follows:

1. Not the most compact option and care needs to be taken to orientate correctly, which makes it necessary to have quite a bit of room to avoid problems.
2. When mounted properly the output does exceed 30A, but not for long as once it gets hot it's output falls away.
3. Unit has no VE network integration.
4. Doesn't integrate with the Victron smart battery sense.
5. It is tricky to set up the wireless engine shutdown and the results are inconsistent with smart alternators. A wire feed is really necessary to provide correct operation.

To me it seems that there is no benefit in buying this product other than for its cosmetic appearance and frankly I wouldn't have thought Victron would need to try very hard to significantly improve this product.

What is the general consensus on this forum on the best DC-DC charger?

 

[DXX]

What is the general consensus on this forum on the best DC-DC charger?

I would think most of us have only used one or maybe two types so hard to get a worthwhile consensus. For me if it does the job I’m not about to replace it with something else. I’ve got a CTEK 250S, it’s got a solar input limitation but it’s very small and has worked without fault for many years.

 

[Pauly]

Same here, I got an original D250s that wouldn’t accept Solar when I added it a couple years later so returned and swapped for an SE model that is still going strong in my work van 5 years later

 

[Epic-Rob]

Same here, I got an original D250s that wouldn’t accept Solar when I added it a couple years later so returned and swapped for an SE model that is still going strong in my work van 5 years later

I had read about the Orion getting hot, so wasnt sure about that. i would be more inclined to choose a combined DCDC/MPPT unit though.
The question i have though. if i am using the D250 to charge my lithium LB will it also trickle charge the the vans lead acid SB ok or do all batteries need to be compatible?

 

[Epic-Rob]

A LWB van with an electrical cabinet!

Well looking at some setups on the net thats it seems that you do need a whole wall of a T6 but i want my package to be nice and compact but pack an amazing punch when needed....... bit like captain flashart.

 

[Samro]

Well looking at some setups on the net thats it seems that you do need a whole wall of a T6

The benefit of a twin slider! See my solution to electric cabinet here-
Show us your kitchen

i would be more inclined to choose a combined DCDC/MPPT unit though.
The question i have though. if i am using the D250 to charge my lithium LB will it also trickle charge the the vans lead acid SB

The reverse charge is achievable with various kit, most of which seems to be combined DC-DC chargers with Solar controllers. The Redarc seems the Rolls Royce option.

The problem is that if you are wanting to achieve as much integration as possible, and you are planning on going down the Victron route, you will certainly want the solar input to be accounted for separately from other charge inputs.- Mainly to allow battery monitoring through the Victron Remote Monitoring (VRM) or Remote Console.
This therefore leaves you needing to use proprietary kit for the VE Network capability. Realistically this means you would go down the Victron MPPT path. (This will leave your reverse charging outstanding.)
If you go down the Victron route with a Multiplus; the (Max 1A) trickle feed to the SB (from the Multi) will deal with your reverse charging requirements.
If you research the trickle feed capability of the Multiplus products, you will find this badly documented by Victron, but trust me, your SB will receive a small feed when the LB voltage exceeds the voltage of the SB[minus 0.3V]. This is all the time due a lithium LB/Lead acid SB combo.

EDIT-This applies to the "Compact" Muliplus models. I don't think the larger Multi units have a separate trickle feed.

 

[Dellmassive]

if you want a compact setup look at the combined unit.

Ctekd250se
Renogy Dc50/30S
Redarc bcdc1220d

the redarc is the smallest by a large margin.

i have all of these and have shown them over here:

• 
  DC-DC:
• Dc-dc Charger (for Leisure Battery) -- How I Done It --
• Charging Starter and Leisure batteries with same charger - Victron
• DC-DC Charger - AUTO VSR - feature testing
• Stop/start...regen...smart Alternator... Dc-dc Charger For Leisure Battery Or Not?
• Victron 12/12/30 DC-DC Charger
• Renogy DC50S DC-DC charger
• Redarc BCDC1250D DC-DC charger
• Votronic DC-DC standby charger - or not !
• Renogy Bt-2 Monitor
• Renogy 20A DC-DC Charger (no solar)
• CTEK D250SE DC-DC Charger

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vs the Vic` Orion.







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[Dellmassive]

see here for the advanced victron monitoring.

Victron (#TeamBlue) Advanced Systems + VRM - How We Done It -

Victron (#TeamBlue) Advanced Systems + VRM - How We Done It - new thread started from - Seat Base Electric + EHU + Solar Install + Charger + DC-DC -- How We Done it -- previous content - Dellmassive’s "How I Done It" blogs. additional content - Solar Sheds & Other Non-t6 Solar Projects -...

www.t6forum.com

.

 

[Dellmassive]

see here for other peoples setups . . .

remember people - dont forget to add your own setups.

Seat Base Electric + EHU + Solar Install + Charger + DC-DC -- How We Done it --

Seat Base Electric + EHU + Solar Install + Charger + DC-DC -- How We Done it -- id like to build a thread showing what's possible as regards to seat base builds. lets post a collection of our electrical installs, be it in the seat base or rear conversion. just EHU or SCR/VSR, charger, DC-DC...

www.t6forum.com

.

 

[Dellmassive]

And FWIW:

even with all the kit i have around me,

my personal choice is.




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Victron mppt for the solar ( mobile), : [Guide] Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -

Renogy DC50s dc-dc with BT2 BT dongle, current limited to 20/30A : [Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --

Victron Smart shunt, ( for power monitoring) :

Renogy 1000W inverter ( small size and good power, with EHU passthrough) : [Guide] 12v/240v Power Inverters -- How I Done It --

Roamer 230SB Lifepo4 : Roamer LiFePO4 Gen2 230Ah Seatbase battery -- "How I Done It" --
BM2/BM6 - voltage monitors : Battery Monitoring -- How I Done It --
AMT2-12 - reverse charge of starter : [Guide] Battery Maintainer (for Starter battery) -- How I Done It --
Victron EHU chargers : Battery Chargers - How I Did It -

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[DXX]

Well looking at some setups on the net thats it seems that you do need a whole wall of a T6 but i want my package to be nice and compact but pack an amazing punch when needed....... bit like captain flashart.

I have a CTEK and a Sargent EC155 in the van plus two AGMs and a solar panel externally. Negligible space taken up in the van, very important to consider this as a Transporter is not a big vehicle.
I use a combined diesel hob / heater (wallas XC duo), I live in my van for weeks at a time.

 

[Epic-Rob]

Ok so to put this thread to bed i decided to stick with the Ctek 250se for Dc-DC i already have as its compact, reviews are ok and the Victron doesnt seem that flash anyway.
I did buy a 1200w victron inverter mainly because of the size, i will be running a 1200w induction hob, and yes i know its on the limit but i didnt want the extra cost and size of a 2000w it will only be pulling 1200w for a few mins till water boils anyway.
i have a voltronic shunt meter that i can use to keep an eye on stuff - i dont need blutooth everything for monitoring, only need to know state of charge.
i have a 230Ah made up battery (4 cells with BMS) so that lot along with a deisel heater i am going to try and get under the 3 front seats.

I will try and be a bit more proactive with piccies this time so will start a camper build thread and post on there.

 

[Samro]

I did buy a 1200w victron inverter mainly because of the size, i will be running a 1200w induction hob, and yes i know its on the limit but i didnt want the extra cost and size of a 2000w it will only be pulling 1200w for a few mins till water boils anyway.

I wouldn't worry about the inverter being on the limit. Victron are very good at labelling their inverters. (The listed output that can be continuously used at 25 deg c. By way of example a Victron Phoenix 1200 can cope with start up loads up to 2200W.)

 

[Dellmassive]

Victron inverters make a funny HUM noise when running near 100% and surging 125% . . .

its a bit unnerving at first, but its normal, for the inverter style as they use Toroidal transformers that hum under heavy load.

make sure you get the VE-Bus device so you can add the inverter onto the Victron APP.

....

saying that, i wouldn't be happy running an inverter at MAX power for any extended time, but Victron is know for its quality and resilience, so I'm sure it will be up to the job.

using decent fat cables and fuses etc will be more important to give the inverter the best chance at running a high load.

 

[Salty Spuds]

Ok so to put this thread to bed i decided to stick with the Ctek 250se for Dc-DC i already have as its compact, reviews are ok and the Victron doesnt seem that flash anyway.
I did buy a 1200w victron inverter mainly because of the size, i will be running a 1200w induction hob, and yes i know its on the limit but i didnt want the extra cost and size of a 2000w it will only be pulling 1200w for a few mins till water boils anyway.
i have a voltronic shunt meter that i can use to keep an eye on stuff - i dont need blutooth everything for monitoring, only need to know state of charge.
i have a 230Ah made up battery (4 cells with BMS) so that lot along with a deisel heater i am going to try and get under the 3 front seats.

I will try and be a bit more proactive with piccies this time so will start a camper build thread and post on there.

Check what the input power of the hob is. Assuming that the 1200W is out put power, the input could be considerably more. A 800W microwave can pull around 1200W at full chat. You might find that the inverter struggles.