...ones that are up to 150% brighter. They do an up to 200% brighter version, but both are rated at 20W, however, the higher output ones have a ballast and cooling fan, like the Phillips ones do. I'm going to whack the halogens back in for ease and see if ABD will exchange them for me. I'm...
...not working on occasion. I had only fitted them quickly and just stuffed all the gubbins wherever it could go without rattling around. I had stuffed the ballast right next to the headlights DRL resistor, which may have been causing the problem. Since moving it, the HIDs have worked perfectly.
...don't do those.
As for fitting, I cut a round hole in the rubber cap on the back of the headlight for the grommet to fit into. Stuck the ballast to the side of the head light with double sided sticky pads, then shoved the rest of the gubbins out of sight. Not the neatest, but seeing how many...
I have bookmarked your post and was hoping with the excellent photos you provided showing where you located the kit I could do it with limited access but I think you are right. It will be easier and possibly quicker with the bumper off. I might wait until I have another grill change though...
...kit into the THQ lights will be no different to the Phillips LED kit. Both are replacement bulbs based around a H7 fitting with an additional ballast module that needs to be stuffed inside the headlight. I've just swapped my Twenty20 bulbs for the Phillips ones in less than 20 minutes, so...
...bulbs. So you will get a light out error.
Two choices.
Using VCDS turn on Byte 19 bit 4 in central electrics to disable the bulb out warning for the indicators.
Or a load resistor on each indicator feed.
4xLED Load Resistor 50W 6RJ Indicator Flash Rate Relay Turn SignalBulbs Ballast | eBay
...my van toward me as I sat in his car. There was less glare than from many other vehicles that passed me. The cost was £63 plus £13 for the ballasts that stopped the flickering, so very reasonable. I'm happy with them. Fitting was a bit time consuming and fiddly, but I copied the method...
...Some (like the Travelvolts ones and the Lumo ones linked above) use individual LED's in series up to a combined Vf just below 12v then ballast resistor as a current limiter,
these will dim fine with a DC PWM dimmer such as the CBE wired in series with their power feed :thumbsup:
Martins are...
No, ballasts etc are outside headlights as usual.
Update on my aftermarket headlights experience!
I am somewhat disappointed with their performance in the dark. The footprint of the light looks narrow . I have tried to adjust the horizontal position of the lenses but it didn't really help. See...
...such mods. It's not really possible to "hide" HID, not only because of the colour, but also the flicker as they are switched on. Plus, the ballast unit is usually easy to spot.
Shouldn't be a problem with fitting aftermarket DRLs, though they will have to comply with relevant positioning...
...Their kit is mega. Unbolt the back of the existing reflector, with the H4 mount, bolt in their projector assembly and D2S lamp, mount the ballast, and away you go. All the pork people love them.
They do list a T5.1 kit, and they seem to have developed a sort of universal D2S holder and...
...the load level motors are adjusted. . . probably via the dial on the dash.
They have been fitted with LED bulbs so they will probably have ballast resistors on the bulb power lines to fool the BCM and bulb check.
I've not seen these fitted yet, and dont know anyone with them . . . . . . so...
...in the unit.
Hopefully now you can see how hard it is to properly do the Installation.
Loads of messing round mate. Not easy
Unless you don't even need the ballast box. But I'm sure you do.
Don't know any other way of doing it so its actually installed.
But you said I've done it the hard way?
...The DRL's and the sidelights are easy to change just a simple replace nothing is unusual.
The main beam H4's are not easy to replace and the ballast box (which is needed) has nowhere to go if your lucky
you can jam it into the unit and seal everything back up. To fully stop the ballast from...
...The DRL's and the sidelights are easy to change just a simple replace nothing is unusual.
The main beam H4's are not easy to replace and the ballast box (which is needed) has nowhere to go if your lucky
you can jam it into the unit and seal everything back up. To fully stop the ballast from...
...board in & see if that behaves the same. I’ve had all sorts of problems over the years with LED Trailers. It sounds to me like the van isn’t recognising the trailer. You might have to fit some ballast resistors into the indicators on the trailer to allow the van to see that a trailer is attached.
It depends on how the LED units are internally constructed.
Some use individual LED's in series up to a combined Vf just below 12v then a ballast resistor as a crude current limiter,
these will dim fine with a DC PWM dimmer wired in series with their power feed :thumbsup:
The more efficient...
...The DRL's and the sidelights are easy to change just a simple replace nothing is unusual.
The main beam H4's are not easy to replace and the ballast box (which is needed) has nowhere to go if your lucky
you can jam it into the unit and seal everything back up. To fully stop the ballast from...
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