Quick Update: Collected van from All Seasons tonight after agreeing the best solution was to remove the antenna unit and fit a grommet.
After removal there is a little bit more wind noise but the roof shuts perfectly now and the cables are tucked under the roof. Still seems to connect the sos...
...into the passenger footwell (for the dc-dc charger)..
I want add an electric hook up under the bonnet.
Before I start taking the van to bits I was hoping if someone can tell me if there are 2 rubber grommets that can be used into the passenger footwell.
If not how have others routed the cables?
Water ingress problem seems fixed. It turned out to be AC condensate. The drain to the engine compartment terminates in a rubber grommet just below and left of the battery. This should have an open ‘slot’ at the bottom- mine seems to have sealed itself up. Condensate had nowhere to go other than...
The large grommet is pretty central in the under seat area. Obviously the 230 underseat battery will cover it, but I’m not sure if the battery sits flush to the actual van floor or not. Decent cables from 12v planet etc are very flexible and I’d guess you only need a gap that is little more than...
Hi @Bigsidavies. Just read your post on cable routing from the drivers seat to the void where the step used to be. I need to do the same thing basically but just wondering exactly where the bung is under the seat. I’m putting a big 230Ah battery in so wondering if I’ll still be able to get some...
Now to feed a wire through the bulkhead. Others have said that they have used the a/c drain, which is a large rubber grommet through the bulkhead behind the ABS unit. After removing the glove box (two rows of torx screws a long the bottom and top behind the door and the side panel with the...
...different skin to the main cable loom, but it comes out in a square ‘window’ almost level with the opening for the rear light cluster rubber grommet and could be fished out. End of the pull rod with the flexible end and white string shown in image below.
I then brought some string up to the...
We remove the check straps by removing 6 spline bolts, just make sure the door dosent swings open to quick. This makes it easier to feed it down
What pop top do you have ?
Ah brilliant that’s good to know that’s definitely a route. I tried through that grommet yesterday but got a bit snagged up so assumed it was a dead end. So I’ll persevere.
And then presumably once I have a line up to that hole accessed from the grommet from the light cluster, push through...
This freeze frame is so very close to what I need - but then it jumps straight to accessing the tailgate grommet. I need to get it down the d pillar for the barn door lights like you did. That's why I wondered if anyone has a bare van now they could help show the path from roof, 'round the...
...option trying to remove the boxing at the rear of the van under the pop top (I have no high level cupboards there).
I’ve removed a rubber grommet for the unused tailgate electrics and can see its daylight outline when I push the endoscope from the interior light over the sliding door so I’ve...
...@Dellmassive explanation seems the best match. But I couldn’t quite decipher if it’s really possible to pull rod up from the rear light loom grommet, up to the top corner and somehow into the void that the poptop sits on and runs all the way to the B and A pillar. Surely there’s all kinds of...
...as it would solve several issues. But routing to the rear NS barn door feels impossible! I think I can get into the void above the sliding door but not sure if that void extends down to the rear lighting cluster or not - I can’t see any other grommet access points. It must have been done before!
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