3.6mm Or 6mm Ply Lining??

[CALLAKN]

What’s the best option here, for the side panels and roof of the van...

I was first thinking 6mm as it means I have more fixing strength when it comes to screwing things into it... however my mate has what seems to be 3.6 and it looks sleek!

 

[Fish]

Think you'll find 3.6 alittle easier to fix back as it will contour better. Unless you screw 5.5mm in place.
All depends on the finish that your after.
I know @DaveyB has recently done this and had to resort back to 3.6mm.

 

[CALLAKN]

Think you'll find 3.6 alittle easier to fix back as it will contour better. Unless you screw 5.5mm in place.
All depends on the finish that your after.
I know @DaveyB has recently done this and had to resort back to 3.6mm.

This is what im thinking... feel 6mm is going to protrude.. people happy with the strength of the 3.6mm then?

 

[Fish]

Believe so mate.
But you could use a combination of 5.5 and 3.6 depending on where n what your contouring.

@Absolut5

 

[DaveyB]

As @Fish says, I originally used a 5mm ply. Made the panel, carpeted it, only to find that the hidden fixing plugs were not strong enough to bend the panel to shape and hold it in place. The fixings ultimately kept popping out of the metalwork.
The 3.6mm works fine and i’ve not had any problem regarding finding it too thin.

 

[CALLAKN]

Believe so mate.
But you could use a combination of 5.5 and 3.6 depending on where n what your contouring.

@Absolut5

cheers fish, ill deffo go with 3.6 for roof lining...

 

[CALLAKN]

as always, the forum is here to help. I've been a part of many different car forums, but this one really is a pleasure, and im here to stay! no more changing vehicles, i have my dream one!

 

[Wills]

I've used 3.6mm all round with hidden clips. Fits well and looks neat. There's a variety of fixings available if you want to mount anything on the ply.

 

[CALLAKN]

I've used 3.6mm all round with hidden clips. Fits well and looks neat. There's a variety of fixings available if you want to mount anything on the ply.

Link to the hidden clips?

 

[CALLAKN]

And whilst I have the attention of the wizards, will this suffice as deadening

Silent Coat 2mm Pack 20 Sheets Car Van Sound Deadening Vibration Proofing Mat | eBay

Along with some recycled plastic insulation from b&q???

Or my other option was - Camper Van Insulation Kit | Buy Online - Low-E.co.uk

Tho this is expensive, and not sure if the sound deadening would be any good... probably need silent coat and this... instead of the recycled plastic option?!

 

[Wills]

Search for "hidden clips" on the forum for useful info.
Do the same for silent coat to learn the best practice.

 

[Dellmassive]

we have 3.6mm through out the rear - Factory (dealer) ply lined

and 5.5mm for the wheel arch boxes.

 

[DaveyB]

And whilst I have the attention of the wizards, will this suffice as deadening

Silent Coat 2mm Pack 20 Sheets Car Van Sound Deadening Vibration Proofing Mat | eBay

Along with some recycled plastic insulation from b&q???

Or my other option was - Camper Van Insulation Kit | Buy Online - Low-E.co.uk

Tho this is expensive, and not sure if the sound deadening would be any good... probably need silent coat and this... instead of the recycled plastic option?!

If you google “sound deadening shop” you will find their website, as they also sell insulation. I got 3mm dodo mat which I stuck over the sound deadening, then crammed a layer of the recycled plastic bottle fleece liner in as well. I still have half a roll of the fleece left.

 

[CALLAKN]

Cheers Dave, would this suffice as an “All in one” or do you recommend silent coat and then Dodo... Dodo Thermo Van Liner Extreme

 

[Bryn23]

Im a bit late to the party, but like its been pointed out, 6mm will give you issues if there are curves and you are using the plastic clips.

As for sound deadening and insulation, its well worth it. you don't technically need to cover 100% of the panels for the sound deadener for it to do its job.

It really improves the noise levels within the van

 

[Bryn23]

I also used a 4mm closed cell reflective insulation under the factory plywood floor, which just just sat on the the sound deading.

if you have the floor out, you can just trace it, or if you have a router, you can just use a flush trim bit with a bearing

 

[CALLAKN]

I also used a 4mm closed cell reflective insulation under the factory plywood floor, which just just sat on the the sound deading.

if you have the floor out, you can just trace it, or if you have a router, you can just use a flush trim bit with a bearing

My floor is the black kombi rubber one which is padded , do I take this up or leave it

 

[Rg_]

Currently I have the factory panels carpeted with hidden clips but they are too weak.

I want to change them for ply so they are stronger. I like the idea of the 3.6mm so hidden clips can be used again but I'm thinking will I want the thicker size for fitting shelves or screwing in things to mount behind where the units will be. Maybe half and half?

Any tips?

 

[BenR]

Currently I have the factory panels carpeted with hidden clips but they are too weak.

I want to change them for ply so they are stronger. I like the idea of the 3.6mm so hidden clips can be used again but I'm thinking will I want the thicker size for fitting shelves or screwing in things to mount behind where the units will be. Maybe half and half?

Any tips?

Use the 5.5mm or thicker and forstner a rebate for the hidden clip in it? Just an idea

 

[The Bear78]

I went with 5.5mm but also suffered the same problem as everyone else where the hidden clips couldn't hold the shape of the side panels. This was exacerbated by my particular panels wanting to curve front to back so they required a lot of force to correct.
I eventually added some storage nets each side which are screwed into rivnuts in the centre of the side panels. This is enough to hold the shape and hidden clips do the rest.
If you are planning to add shelving then a similar solution may work.