Adjusting rear barn door

[Georgeie]

Noticed an annoying rattle at the rear of my T6 and have narrowed it down to the rear barn door not fitting snug against the seals. I think I need to adjust the anchor point for the door latch to pull the door a few millimeters closer and remove the gap that allows the door to move / rattle on the latch. The only issue is the torx head screws holding the anchor point down. Has anyone experienced a similar issue? I am guessing the anchor point might need grinding off or screws drilling out?

 

[Georgeie]

Meant to say the torx screws are completely rusted with perished grooves.

 

[JumpShip]

My approach would be - take the threshold strip off ,wire brush, penetrating oil ,carefully select the appropriate sized bit (maybe the next size up) and then belt it in with a hammer A) shock treatment B)to make sure the bit has some proper bite .

 

[bubbadubba]

My approach would be - take the threshold strip off ,wire brush, penetrating oil ,carefully select the appropriate sized bit (maybe the next size up) and then belt it in with a hammer A) shock treatment B)to make sure the bit has some proper bite .

yup......this is exactly what I would do as well.

 

[Badjamin]

As above belting in the next size torx up after a good soak in penetration spray (oo-er) will likely do the trick. If not a bolt removal die kit is your next option in this line of attack.

the rubber seal looks quite old? If it's lost its 'firmness' it might be that a a new door seal would resolve this although it's about £40 on ebay, to investigate you could pull the strip off local to the latch and pack it out slightly just with a bit of thin card folded in half over the rolled edge to see?

good luck with it and keep us updated

 

[manfrotto]

Note - they are not Torx screws but triple Square (AKA XZN head) - I believe 8mm.
It is actually worth investing in a set as VW use these extensively (just because they like to be different ?) It reminds me of the the days where Wolsley cars used Whitworth sizes.

 

[manfrotto]

For those interested.....

Why do xzn bolts exist? - page 2 - General - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

Why do xzn bolts exist? - page 2 - General - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

vwdiesel.net

 

[Georgeie]

My approach would be - take the threshold strip off ,wire brush, penetrating oil ,carefully select the appropriate sized bit (maybe the next size up) and then belt it in with a hammer A) shock treatment B)to make sure the bit has some proper bite .

Thanks for the tip. Had not thought of this so will give it a whirl.

 

[Georgeie]

As above belting in the next size torx up after a good soak in penetration spray (oo-er) will likely do the trick. If not a bolt removal die kit is your next option in this line of attack.

the rubber seal looks quite old? If it's lost its 'firmness' it might be that a a new door seal would resolve this although it's about £40 on ebay, to investigate you could pull the strip off local to the latch and pack it out slightly just with a bit of thin card folded in half over the rolled edge to see?

good luck with it and keep us updated

Thanks for the suggestion. The seal is still pretty spongy but I have already ordered a new seal off eBay for belt and braces.

 

[Georgeie]

For those interested.....

Why do xzn bolts exist? - page 2 - General - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

Why do xzn bolts exist? - page 2 - General - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

vwdiesel.net

Thanks for pointing out it is an XZN bolt. I’ll look them up.

 

[JumpShip]

Does it get wet inside the doors ?
That's pretty rusty in there

 

[Georgeie]

Does it get wet inside the doors ?
That's pretty rusty in there

I know. Rainwater does not seem to get in though. Bought the van from someone who liked near the coast so probably from dragging lots of wet kit in.