Anybody lowered on 17” with 215/60/17?

Do the Factory Led Headlight adjusters have to be disconnected when changing the springs? If so where are they?

TIA
All of the vans we have done haven't needed recalibration "EXCEPT one " . This particular customer has had an issue and VW recently did some calibration on the van and exploited 117 quid off him . no one can tell us why or what had changed , or indeed what they changed . but generally no if the car is lowered and the rake is maintained at the correct level the head lights and the adjustment sensors shouldn't need changing .
 
All of the vans we have done haven't needed recalibration "EXCEPT one " . This particular customer has had an issue and VW recently did some calibration on the van and exploited 117 quid off him . no one can tell us why or what had changed , or indeed what they changed . but generally no if the car is lowered and the rake is maintained at the correct level the head lights and the adjustment sensors shouldn't need changing .
Thanks again. I was worried that just before the springs are fitted, the sensors needed to be disconnected and then re-fitted once the job was done. I take it they remain in place and they are no where near to be concerned about.
 
Generally the sensors are mounted on the body of the car and link up to the Control arms . they are plastic connecting arms and NOT adjustable at all . The head lights can be adjusted in the light itself and apparently can be adjusted in Basic settings on the Vag com link . although we have never had to do this because I like to maintain the exact rake of the car before and after the fitting of equipment .
 
Generally the sensors are mounted on the body of the car and link up to the Control arms . they are plastic connecting arms and NOT adjustable at all . The head lights can be adjusted in the light itself and apparently can be adjusted in Basic settings on the Vag com link . although we have never had to do this because I like to maintain the exact rake of the car before and after the fitting of equipment .
Been in work so not had chance to reply. Thanks again for the info. Fair play to you.

On a separate note and I'm probably going to open up a can of worms. Are H&R springs better than Cobra who have a lifetime guarantee and are more reasonable in price. Answers on a postcard please
 
Can anyone tell me if the subframe on a T6 has to be dropped in order to replace Springs? Or is it a case of just loosening the nut which secures it to the hub and the sliding the drive shaft out?

TIA
 
Can anyone tell me if the subframe on a T6 has to be dropped in order to replace Springs? Or is it a case of just loosening the nut which secures it to the hub and the sliding the drive shaft out?

TIA
depends on model of T 6 , A t32 is a piece of cake just undo the top nut in the wiper cavity under the bonnet . then remove the ARB tie rod , remove the 2 camber bolts at the bottom of the shock and remove the strut .
If its a T 28 T 30 , the best way is to loosen the lower control arm , Steering tie rod and drive shaft and remove the strut hub assembly complete , break it off the car , trying to do it on the car is a really tough thing to do . Battle not , do it the seemingly longer way !!
 
depends on model of T 6 , A t32 is a piece of cake just undo the top nut in the wiper cavity under the bonnet . then remove the ARB tie rod , remove the 2 camber bolts at the bottom of the shock and remove the strut .
If its a T 28 T 30 , the best way is to loosen the lower control arm , Steering tie rod and drive shaft and remove the strut hub assembly complete , break it off the car , trying to do it on the car is a really tough thing to do . Battle not , do it the seemingly longer way !!

Unfortunately I've got a T30 and thought it would be as easy as the T32. I was wrong. To be fair, the springs have been fitted but in end took of wishbone as well. Maybe not best, but all done.

Thanks again and hope everyone is staying safe
 
It isn't the easiest of jobs I have to admit , when you do 20 or more a month its easy to trivialise the amount of work but I wouldn't be that brave . ha ha
 
It isn't the easiest of jobs I have to admit , when you do 20 or more a month its easy to trivialise the amount of work but I wouldn't be that brave . ha ha
It certainly was a headache and I genuinely thought it would be the same as the T32, not knowing that this is different to the other T versions. All springs done now. Thanks again
 
Here's the result. Not sure if the picture shows the drop, but it is definitely lower. The bounce has also been reduced and feels more positive in the road. For now I'm happy. It's a 40 mm drop on Cobras

IMG_20200330_175459.jpg
 
The drop is quite subtle and with the standard wheels you may get an acceptable ride from the standard shocks , remember if the ride does become an issue the KONI sport makes a massive difference and at that drop the Auto adjust special actives will be tremendous . well done on completing that task , if you did that on your drive way its no mean feat ,
 
The drop is quite subtle and with the standard wheels you may get an acceptable ride from the standard shocks , remember if the ride does become an issue the KONI sport makes a massive difference and at that drop the Auto adjust special actives will be tremendous . well done on completing that task , if you did that on your drive way its no mean feat ,
To be fair a relative of mine did the work and I am thankful for their skills. As I was going to pitch in, but with everything that is going on they did it all for me
 
Any experience any noises when steering at slow speed after their van has been lowered? I've changed the top mounts and drop links when the springs were fitted. Could it be the bushes?
 
If you turn the steering lock to lock when stationary do you feel a judder on the steering wheel . If so it sounds like there is an issue with the top mount bearings , if it wasn't like that before it could be that its not back together properly or the bearing came apart during the spring swap and possibly some dirt got in bearing ,
 
I get a small judder when at a standstill and have HR 40mm drop. Thought was maybe as had 20s on though :/
It goes if crawling.

wonder if that’s the source of my small judder on the mway at higher speeds in anything but perfect surface.
 
If you turn the steering lock to lock when stationary do you feel a judder on the steering wheel . If so it sounds like there is an issue with the top mount bearings , if it wasn't like that before it could be that its not back together properly or the bearing came apart during the spring swap and possibly some dirt got in bearing ,
Looks like it's the top mount, when I turn the steering to the right, there is a clicking noise. Think it could the top mount bearings. Replaced the original ones for Meyle ones which I thought were good quality. Oh well, must be a one off. (Hopefully)

Thanks again @ CRS Performance.
 
Looks like it's the top mount, when I turn the steering to the right, there is a clicking noise. Think it could the top mount bearings. Replaced the original ones for Meyle ones which I thought were good quality. Oh well, must be a one off. (Hopefully)

Thanks again @ CRS Performance.
Evening all, I'm after advice (embarrassingly again)

I've changed the top mount which was making the noise, and now the same noise has returned. It happens at slow speed when manouvering to park for example. It is a clicking noise and seems to be the same side as I replaced.

When I lowered the van, I replaced the top mounts for Meyle ones, and again replaced the faulty Meyle one for the another.

Any ideas what could be causing it? Could it be the drop links? They were changed too at the time of dropping it. My steering is also slightly off, could the faulty top mount or drop link cause problems?

Thanks again for your advice or experience's.
 
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