@Pauly ; it's getting ridiculous now. Could you possibly let me know which fuse (and where the fuse board is!) to remove? It's constantly latching open and shut, draining our battery and will no doubt keep us awake all night if we don't sort it!
It's in the fusebox behind the bottle cooler, after you open the cooler there are two plastic catches on the rear that you squeeze together and the whole bottle cooler assembly will come forwards and up revealing the fusebox
It's fuse 44 that powers all the latching modules so make sure boot and slider are closed and pulled in before removing or doors won't close fully afterwards
If your having probs mate shoot me a PM and we can swap numbers and talk if needs be
Have just checked and that fuse also supplies the alarm horn so be aware pulling it may disable audible alarm signal and it's possible it may log a fault it's hard to be sure ?
@Polzeylad did you resolve this issue?
I know this is an old thread now but I’ve got exactly the same issue.
Mine stopped working and was locked shut. I fiddled around with the wiring in case anything was loose and the catch started operating on its own over and over. It then stopped and was working. It’s worked for around a month and today it’s randomly stopped again. While I was in the van it started trying to open repeatedly on its own. I pushed it open and it stopped. When I closed it again it was back to not working. The annoying thing is I’ve trimmed it out now so it’s not easy to get to.
@Thehawks Polzy isnt on the forum anymore so you wont get a response.
However there are many knowledgeable folk on here that may have experienced similar issues.
Could be worth checking the search feature whilst waiting for them to come along.
@Thehawks Polzy isnt on the forum anymore so you wont get a response.
However there are many knowledgeable folk on here that may have experienced similar issues.
Could be worth checking the search feature whilst waiting for them to come along.
It’s a tricky one as it’s difficult to know which part is causing it
There are three parts to the which are the door switch/sensor that’s in the tailgate, the control unit which is located in the rear quarter panel and the lock motor which also has a sensor in it
The mechanism basically works by the tailgate motor sensing a signal to the control unit when it’s closed, the control unit then activates the power latch unit to pull the door in, when the door is in the sensor in the latch unit sends a signal to the control unit to say it’s closed and this powers down the latch mechanism.
When opening the tailgate this process is basically the same but in reverse
My guess would be one of the sensors/switches is not reporting its status (open/closed) properly so the control unit does know how to respond or whether to stop/start etc but there is also the possibility the control unit is pooped ?
I certainly think this would be a job for your dealer to do under warranty as it’s difficult to prove which part is causing the error without replacing parts or testing the wiring, FWIW the sensors all report back using a switched negative
Thanks @Pauly. That’s kind of what I thought/ feared!! The van’s still well in warranty but because it’s now a camper I garentee Carrs will claim the problem has been caused by the additional wiring. I know that’s not the case but arguing the point with them is like trying plait sawdust!
I was hoping that @Polzylad may have know what the cause was in his case.
What was wrong with a nice mechanical latch hey!!!
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