Battery Charging - Main Battery Chassis Point -

The two leads on the jump booster are that short for a reason... they only need to reach across the battery terminals...
 
No not really, the Ctek draws only a couple of mA which in the grand scheme of things is like an extremely low draw and should not end up giving you battery problems.

The idea of the shunt is to monitor ALL of the power coming from/ leaving the battery. wiring the CTEK across the battery posts means that the Van Power management is not accounting for the tiny draw of power from it.. . . . . but its so low you should be ok... (provided your van is a daily-driver and not left parked up for days or weeks)

But if it keeps you awake at night . . . . . there is a body ground point just to the RHS of the battery that you can use as a ground.

ill dig out a pic.

its a light bracket bolt . . . . . but will work fine for that application.. just scratch off some of the black paint so there is a good electrical connection under the bolt-to-bracket join.


pics . . .

View attachment 48002 View attachment 48003
Having just got a CTEK mains charger (7A), I'm looking to permanently set up a quick connection with ring terminals. With +ve on the battery, is the ground in these photos still recommended? The leads aren't long, so position is ideal.
Will I have damaged battery or monitor by having it croc clipped to the battery terminals for a charge?
 
Having just got a CTEK mains charger (7A), I'm looking to permanently set up a quick connection with ring terminals. With +ve on the battery, is the ground in these photos still recommended? The leads aren't long, so position is ideal.
Will I have damaged battery or monitor by having it croc clipped to the battery terminals for a charge?
Damaged no, but you should move the charger ground off the battery to a chassis ground asap.
 
It’s really quite annoying they don’t provide a decent ground point anywhere accessible and near the battery terminals. If they don’t want people using the battery negative, why on earth (pun intended...) didn’t they provide something?
Agreed...

our old BMW had a "jump point" POS and NEG right there in front of you. (battery was buried in boot)

you can use the bracket bolts to the right of the battery,

and there are a couple of ground studs in the scuttle area.
 
Agreed...

our old BMW had a "jump point" POS and NEG right there in front of you. (battery was buried in boot)

you can use the bracket bolts to the right of the battery,

and there are a couple of ground studs in the scuttle area.

I’m not convinced on the brackets to the right, I measured 3 ohm to battery negative from there. Maybe taking some paint off under the bolt helps but I’m not sure because I would have thought the bolt itself should make a decent connection through to the nut/panel behind?
 
Yeh. I took the bolt out and used emery cloth to clean down to metal on the bolt an bracket.... then ohm tested and run 50A load across it to test..... all good.
 
Yeh. I took the bolt out and used emery cloth to clean down to metal on the bolt an bracket.... then ohm tested and run 50A load across it to test..... all good.

I'm having a nightmare trying to find earth points near the starter battery, so might try this too. Did you remove the entire black right angle bracket in order to emery cloth the paint away to get a decent contact? It doesn't seem as straightforward as I'd hoped as the two bolts that hold that black angle bracket on go through to a movable plate within the side panel so I'm scared I'll lose the plate as soon as I undo them!
 
I'm having a nightmare trying to find earth points near the starter battery, so might try this too. Did you remove the entire black right angle bracket in order to emery cloth the paint away to get a decent contact? It doesn't seem as straightforward as I'd hoped as the two bolts that hold that black angle bracket on go through to a movable plate within the side panel so I'm scared I'll lose the plate as soon as I undo them!
No, just removed one bolt.

Cleaned black paint off to bare metal.

Fitted battery ring terminal to cable and clamped down.

Been fine for couple years now.
 
updating this thread . . .

@roadtripper showed his T6.1 and the battery NEG post - he showed it was possible to clamp the neg charger lead to the NEG cable on the battery. as it was on the front side of the battery and was assessable.

(@roadtripper can you post a few of those pics here please?)

i remember saying to him i thought my T6 setup was different or at least my battery NEG cable had heat shrink on or something. . . and said i would check.


i forgot all about it till the other day.

where i noticed that on my T6 the NEG cable was to the SIDE of the battery and hidden. ( ill update with some pics soon)

where as the T6.1 cable was at the FRONT of the battery - meaning that you can clamp a charger or booster cable to it just below the battery SHUNT.

pics will make it clear. . . .
 
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Sure, here's a close up of my negative terminal and a wider view for context.

The crimp for the negative strap is cranked at right angles over the front of the battery and unsheathed.

It's certainly big enough for a charger type clamp, it might not be big enough for all very large clamps from a jump lead or pack. And obviously you need to take care not to snag the LIN cable to the shunt or you will be in a world of electrics issues.

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brilliant @roadtripper

looks like VW have made another improvement on the T6.1 - looks like you can use it as a jump and charger connection point.

on the T6 the cable is off to the side, so you cant get to it, its also covered in heat shrink.

this is the BUS:


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and this is the VAN:

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.

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On the downside I think the arrangement on mine puts more stress on the LIN cable to the shunt, I keep meaning to try and find better routing for that.

I'd also love to have the full partition and lid for the battery area, even with a high end 6.1 there is the miserly minimum on mine.
 
On the downside I think the arrangement on mine puts more stress on the LIN cable to the shunt, I keep meaning to try and find better routing for that.

I'd also love to have the full partition and lid for the battery area, even with a high end 6.1 there is the miserly minimum on mine.
looks like you have a secion missing? - green.

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here is mine. . .

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and also the rear bit looks the same.

yours, ...

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and mine. . .

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also the battery cover is a T5,1 addition. . .

the OEM plastics come in three bits, this is the third top bit. . . that i removed.

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then added the T5.1 top battery cover.


see here for T6.1 fitting.


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...




...

1710489377975.png
 
Yep I've got an eBay search running on the missing (well never there in the first place) vertical section but I always baulk at the price when they come up :whistle:

Thanks for the link to the top cover thread, hadn't run into that.

Not sure how much difference it makes but I'd feel better with it a bit more enclosed if I start adding a few additional electrics in that space.
 
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