Having just got a CTEK mains charger (7A), I'm looking to permanently set up a quick connection with ring terminals. With +ve on the battery, is the ground in these photos still recommended? The leads aren't long, so position is ideal.No not really, the Ctek draws only a couple of mA which in the grand scheme of things is like an extremely low draw and should not end up giving you battery problems.
The idea of the shunt is to monitor ALL of the power coming from/ leaving the battery. wiring the CTEK across the battery posts means that the Van Power management is not accounting for the tiny draw of power from it.. . . . . but its so low you should be ok... (provided your van is a daily-driver and not left parked up for days or weeks)
But if it keeps you awake at night . . . . . there is a body ground point just to the RHS of the battery that you can use as a ground.
ill dig out a pic.
its a light bracket bolt . . . . . but will work fine for that application.. just scratch off some of the black paint so there is a good electrical connection under the bolt-to-bracket join.
pics . . .
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Damaged no, but you should move the charger ground off the battery to a chassis ground asap.Having just got a CTEK mains charger (7A), I'm looking to permanently set up a quick connection with ring terminals. With +ve on the battery, is the ground in these photos still recommended? The leads aren't long, so position is ideal.
Will I have damaged battery or monitor by having it croc clipped to the battery terminals for a charge?
Agreed...It’s really quite annoying they don’t provide a decent ground point anywhere accessible and near the battery terminals. If they don’t want people using the battery negative, why on earth (pun intended...) didn’t they provide something?
Agreed...
our old BMW had a "jump point" POS and NEG right there in front of you. (battery was buried in boot)
you can use the bracket bolts to the right of the battery,
and there are a couple of ground studs in the scuttle area.
Yeh. I took the bolt out and used emery cloth to clean down to metal on the bolt an bracket.... then ohm tested and run 50A load across it to test..... all good.
Ran a 16 sq mm cable from the engine grounding stud to near the battery so I can connect my Noco GB70 if and when it’s needed.
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No, just removed one bolt.I'm having a nightmare trying to find earth points near the starter battery, so might try this too. Did you remove the entire black right angle bracket in order to emery cloth the paint away to get a decent contact? It doesn't seem as straightforward as I'd hoped as the two bolts that hold that black angle bracket on go through to a movable plate within the side panel so I'm scared I'll lose the plate as soon as I undo them!
The one with the engine grounding strap attached, offside from the cambelt cover.Which stud exactly did you run that cable to?
Any chance of a photo please. Sounds like a good idea.The one with the engine grounding strap attached, offside from the cambelt cover.
looks like you have a secion missing? - green.On the downside I think the arrangement on mine puts more stress on the LIN cable to the shunt, I keep meaning to try and find better routing for that.
I'd also love to have the full partition and lid for the battery area, even with a high end 6.1 there is the miserly minimum on mine.