After my initial battery testing direct on the battery, I moved my bm2 over to my starter battery additional fuse box, and fused at 2A.The draw is low enough it's possible to wire directly, and there is some argument this gives the best chance of an accurate voltage reading.
I would however try and add a fuse to the wiring, having seen the inside of a BM2 I'm not really comfortable at the separation as per my post here:
What Have You Done To Your Van Today?
I've had / got stud and nut kits on other cars, makes wheel changing easier.. and adding spacers less hassle if needs be. Thanks for that…. I like’s it! :cool:www.t6forum.com
It looks like the bm2 PCB has a soldered fuse, but as you said before the link wires would burn out before any real damage.
Interestingly the ctek battery monitor has a longer fly lead and an inline atc fuse..... But it's not as good as the bm2. My testing showed the ctek monitor had poor SoC firmware logic and was often way off the mark with accuracy.