Connects 2 wheel interface

I don't have a picture to hand, but its a proper T6 button config, later highline one like this button config.

wheel.jpeg
 
I'll wait for a pic of your actual wheel.

Did you remove the quadlock adapter that the RCD330 needs to work with the later plugs?
 
I'll wait for a pic of your actual wheel.

Did you remove the quadlock adapter that the RCD330 needs to work with the later plugs?
Here you go, its the same as the one I posted above with the correct later t6 button config, not golf buttons, or adaptive etc, and all work with the original unit.

I may have been mistaken, mine has the original basic 6 button media composition unit (withoutnav) which I thought was a rcd330.

Just stock loom, later connects 2 quadlock with the two pina bottom right.

A597897E-3608-4497-8047-1B274417FAF8.jpeg
 
Ok, have you got a pic of your original head unit and the loom that’s in the van?
 
Ok, have you got a pic of your original head unit and the loom that’s in the van?
Hi, I don’t at the minute as I’m not with the van, but its the basic mib pq composition one, factory fit one same as the one here (not Chinese imitation), with 6 button config, it had all the original Vw part numbers / labels on top when removed.


The loom is the same layout as the later (2016>) quadlock (not T6 one) with two pins at the bottom left. The only wires not connected from the original loom is the blue and green blocks, which I believe is the microphone and another connection that isn’t needed (but can’t recall off the top of my head what it was).

The quadlock has all 8 speaker wires (as i pinned the connector when I first got the van for x2 rear outputs), then the standard yellow switch to ignition, red 12v, black grnd and orange can hi / lo wires, which then all go to the corresponding wires on the HU / SWC (orange can wires are blue and white on the SWC end).

Another update also, I had connects2 on the phone, they basically advised me to try all the steps I already have, and also the dip switch config which I did when on the phone. They’re sending out a CTSONYLEAD, which as far as I can see is exacty the same config as the universal lead but who knows.
 
As I've said on WhatsApp I think your going into it to deep I really think it's either the interface or more likely the headunit @T6ARF had problem with the Sony unit you have and so did several other vans which is why I stopped fitting them and went for the 5650.

That interface will work regardless of vehicle spec or whether controls are stalk or steering wheel based.

Really think it's hardware mate. Hope you get it sorted soon though
 
We'll see what happens when the new patch lead arrives, for now I've disconnected the old one as it doesn't do anything anyway.

Head unit is defo getting a canbus signal though, as the headunit powers off with key removal and dims with lights etc. Just seems like the wheel commands aren't getting through the box to the HU for some reason.
 
No the aftermarket headunit (in your case song) doesn't get any CANbus signal the interface recieves the ignition via canbus and switches on a 12v ignition feed to the radio.

So the interface is 100ql% getting a signal but it's still open verdict on if it's the headunit at fault or the interface.

Sorry bud just making sure info is correct for anyone reading this in the future
 
Well the connects 2 Sony patch lead arrived, and it is indeed identically wired to the universal one.

So same result - only the phone button working.

Connects2 advised me only the phone button will work if it is set to custom and jumper switch 4 is in the up position. All should be in the down position.

I tried both again and zero difference.

At this point, I think I need to try a new connects 2 interface and if that doesn’t work a different head unit.

I reconnected the factory stereo and controls worked perfectly.
 
Right, another replacement connects2 box on the way.

If that doesn’t work, I’ll buy another headunit and try it (probably a pioneer) to see what happens and rule out the Sony unit.
 
New box arrived, same part number, connected and started all working straight away. I can map any button I want.

Thanks everyone for your help :)

So to summarise for anyone searching:

- van is a t6 eu6 late 2016 startline
- retrofitted later type MFSW with cruise on wheel
- basic startline cluster
- ctkvw017 kit used
- sony xav-ax3250 headunit
- no extra configuration or jumper switch changes needed (unlike what connects2 told me…)
- Universal patch lead included within the kit is wired identical to the CTSONYLEAD out of the box (although, I will say the universal one was less of a snug fit)
- on preset, volume works, and skip back, skip forward puts the screen to sleep
- all buttons can be mapped via custom (again connects2 support told me this was NOT possible for Sony) including phone and voice buttons, so now everything is good
- 5F error for multimedia (if originally fitted) will show, and a canbus error as the multimedia module will not be reaponding when removed, this cannot be cleared, but the buttons will not be disabled and should still function
- I didn’t see the point in removing 5F and coding in radio, you get one less error (none on cluster) but the others remain, and later if I ever did have any reason to refit factory unit, it will just work and not need to be coded back in

I’m a happy bunny seeing as I already went through the hassle of running wiring and rca leads etc specific to this unit and set up the sound and everything else how I wanted, so I will just use this unit for now.

@Dav-Tec and @Absolut5 were correct, the wheel configuration did not matter, and thats a big sigh of relief, as for a moment, I thought I would be stuck!
 
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Hi all, can I resurrect this please? I’m having a similar issue. I got my plastic non-mfsw upgraded to a mfsw. The new mfsw was off a California donor. Right side buttons are for MFD and phone hangup, left buttons are stereo volume m, skip and mute.

After the initial installation the right MFD buttons worked (and still do), but the left stereo buttons did nothing to my pioneer sph-da120 head unit. The technician was baffled so took the stereo out to check the patch lead was present, which it was. He unplugged the head unit from the main vw harness for a few seconds and reconnected it to check it was connected properly. The mfsw stereo buttons sprung to life. I was very happy.

This morning I started my van and the left side stereo buttons aren’t working again. I’m at a loss what to do as I got the impression the technician was baffled why it initially wasn’t working. Any suggestions anyone?
 
Hi all, can I resurrect this please? I’m having a similar issue. I got my plastic non-mfsw upgraded to a mfsw. The new mfsw was off a California donor. Right side buttons are for MFD and phone hangup, left buttons are stereo volume m, skip and mute.

After the initial installation the right MFD buttons worked (and still do), but the left stereo buttons did nothing to my pioneer sph-da120 head unit. The technician was baffled so took the stereo out to check the patch lead was present, which it was. He unplugged the head unit from the main vw harness for a few seconds and reconnected it to check it was connected properly. The mfsw stereo buttons sprung to life. I was very happy.

This morning I started my van and the left side stereo buttons aren’t working again. I’m at a loss what to do as I got the impression the technician was baffled why it initially wasn’t working. Any suggestions anyone?
Could be a number of things? Some I can think of:
- Patch lead / loom connection fault
- Faulty canbus decoder
- Poor remote lead connection to head unit
- Clock spring loom fault / dodgy wire / connection

I doubt its anything to do with coding if it was working. Mine shows various communication faults and errors on multimedia and gateway due to removal of the factory unit, but still works.

I’d start by removing the head unit and reconnect in the correct order to see if it springs to life again, as thats the easiest thing to get to and start with, just pop the plastic cover and two bolts and you are there.
 
Thanks. I’ll try that first. If no joy then I guess a new Connects 2 lead is the next cheapest test (not that they’re cheap!!).
 
The patch lead themselves are about £8 on ebay that go from the connects 2 to the headunit, the box with loom is the expensive bit.
 
Also if you have a VAG obd tool, or someone is close to you with one, you can perhaps try to rule out the buttons on the left by seeing if they are working in live data. If they are seen by the bcm then the fault must be somewhere with the canbus decoder / loom or HU and not the wheel.
 
Hi T fun bus, did you get your issue sorted, I have the T6 and having the same issues with a kenwood stere, also have a retro fitted mfsw thanks
My issue was a faulty connects2box from new.

A replacement worked.

Were your buttons working with the factory stereo? Are they seen in live data as working?
 
Hi.
thanks for replying, I have only just had the MFSW fitted and never had chance to test with the old radio, as it was all taken out at the same time so I don’t is the honest answe.
Thanks again
 
If the MFSW has just been fitted it must be coded in.

The ‘with MFSW’ needs to be added, i cannot recall which bit and byte but it will be in the retrofit cruise control thread.

You’ll need someone with VCDS or OBDeleven.
 
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