Ctek D250SA with Sargent EC150

The easiest way to get a switched ignition feed to your CTEK is using a piggy back connector as shown in that useful video. You can pick them up pretty cheaply on EBay.

It will work without this connected BUT it won’t work correctly. The CTEK switches on based on the voltage it senses on the starter battery. Above a certain threshold it will kick in and charge the leisure battery, below a threshold it switches off. Because a T6 with a smart alternator keeps the starter battery at only around 80%, there will be periods when the engine is running when the CTEK won’t kick in (because the battery voltage is too low). The red lead attached to IGN essentially overrides this and forces the CTEK to turn on when it sees 12V on this line (I.e. when the engine is running.

It is also possible for the CTEK to charge when the ignition is off. If you connect an external charger to your starter battery and the voltage goes up over the min threshold for the CTEK, it will kick in and start to charge the leisure battery as well (I have tested this).
You are corrrect! I had the solar panel charging yesterday and when I started the engine the A light did not illuminate as the alternator was chucking out 12.2v. After I switched on the heated mirrors, headlights and A/C the voltage increased and the CTEK started to charge in parallel. I will be setting up the ignition live connection tomorrow. Big Wave Camper should have done this for me, grrrr!
 
"Big Wave" These are the numpties I was referring to in my previous reply, the build quality was shocking on my van (all the bits you couldn't see) I have now re-built my van correctly over "lockdown". - no insulation on the floor even.
Whilst on electrics, they had connected the CRX50 fridge (compressor type) to the EC155 which doesn't support a compressor fridge - I've connected it via a fuse and switch direct to the battery.
Battery is now installed under the seat where I can get to it.
I have just checked my van as I have the same fridge. They have wired it from the EC155 aswell....... :-( Why doesn't the unit support a compressor fridge?
 
Thanks Big.mac The 30A fuse between the CTEK and the leisure battery has been installed near to the CTEK instead of near the leisure batteryand the cable run is about 1m.
Do you think this will be OK or should I move the inline fuse so that it is closer to the leisure battery?
That should be fine. the key thing is there is a fuse ;)
 
open the door and at each side are two recessed caps, remove the caps and the screws will be there. Only the top two were used to install by Big Wave on mine!!!
I added a switch also but that is optional as you can turn it off/on from inside the fridge.
If you look inside the CRX manual fig 14, gives you cable diameter against length, for 1m - 4mm2 should be fine. Any longer and you will need bigger stuff.
They should of supplied a manual when you got the vehicle.
On Picture Fridge switch as side of seat base (green led) so I can switch on whilst driving if a forgot !!

Battery #5.jpg
 
open the door and at each side are two recessed caps, remove the caps and the screws will be there. Only the top two were used to install by Big Wave on mine!!!
I added a switch also but that is optional as you can turn it off/on from inside the fridge.
If you look inside the CRX manual fig 14, gives you cable diameter against length, for 1m - 4mm2 should be fine. Any longer and you will need bigger stuff.
They should of supplied a manual when you got the vehicle.
On Picture Fridge switch as side of seat base (green led) so I can switch on whilst driving if a forgot !!

View attachment 70762
Check out the sawdust Bigwave left me!20200521_173752.jpg
 
Looks standard for them, my floor rotted out from the fridge condensation just under that sawdust in 2 years !!!
Replaced and insulated the floor during lockdown.
I had to cut a vent in the side behind the drivers door. Check you have a vent.
Floor #1.jpgFloor #3.jpgFloor #4.jpgFloor #5.jpgFloor #2.jpg
 
Looks standard for them, my floor rotted out from the fridge condensation just under that sawdust in 2 years !!!
Replaced and insulated the floor during lockdown.
I had to cut a vent in the side behind the drivers door. Check you have a vent.
View attachment 70800View attachment 70802View attachment 70803View attachment 70804View attachment 70801
Oh no that looked like a ball ache. I thought compressor fridges didn't require venting? Big Wave had connected my fridge to the 15A 'permanent supply' fuse. Is it ok to run my 4mm from their pre-wired cable or should I remove that piece and run straight off the terminals?
 
Connect direct to the battery with a fuse - completely independent of the EC155.
I've attached the manual, all instruction are there.Fidge #3.jpgFidge #2.jpgFidge #1.jpg
 

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The easiest way to get a switched ignition feed to your CTEK is using a piggy back connector as shown in that useful video. You can pick them up pretty cheaply on EBay.

It will work without this connected BUT it won’t work correctly. The CTEK switches on based on the voltage it senses on the starter battery. Above a certain threshold it will kick in and charge the leisure battery, below a threshold it switches off. Because a T6 with a smart alternator keeps the starter battery at only around 80%, there will be periods when the engine is running when the CTEK won’t kick in (because the battery voltage is too low). The red lead attached to IGN essentially overrides this and forces the CTEK to turn on when it sees 12V on this line (I.e. when the engine is running.

It is also possible for the CTEK to charge when the ignition is off. If you connect an external charger to your starter battery and the voltage goes up over the min threshold for the CTEK, it will kick in and start to charge the leisure battery as well (I have tested this).
Hi Big.mac
I have connected the +12v ignition to the red conductor on the CTEK and switched the ignition on. The +IN light was flashing every 3 seconds due to the solar panel trickle charging the starter battery. With the ignition on, the +IN light started to flash faster. If the leisure battery needed charging, can I assume the the +OUT light would illuminate and the charging would commence?
 
Hi Big.mac
I have connected the +12v ignition to the red conductor on the CTEK and switched the ignition on. The +IN light was flashing every 3 seconds due to the solar panel trickle charging the starter battery. With the ignition on, the +IN light started to flash faster. If the leisure battery needed charging, can I assume the the +OUT light would illuminate and the charging would commence?
In your shoes I would simply connect something to the leisure battery that needs a bit of juice and find out, a fridge maybe ;). Or a tyre pump or anything else that will draw a bit of current. The proof of the pudding as they say. Better to know it works in the real world that just in theory.
 
In your shoes I would simply connect something to the leisure battery that needs a bit of juice and find out, a fridge maybe ;). Or a tyre pump or anything else that will draw a bit of current. The proof of the pudding as they say. Better to know it works in the real world that just in theory.
Hi Big mac....Well I would have powered the CX50 fridge but I have just realised after conversing with Lordcrambeck that it has been wired driectly from the Sargent EC155 on a 15A fuse! 1.5mm2 flex on a long run too. I have removed the wiring and have ordered 6mm2 cable with fuse holder etc so that I can wire it in direct to the leisure battery. I wish I didn't buy from Bigwave Campers, Bude............
 
Hi Big mac....Well I would have powered the CX50 fridge but I have just realised after conversing with Lordcrambeck that it has been wired driectly from the Sargent EC155 on a 15A fuse! 1.5mm2 flex on a long run too. I have removed the wiring and have ordered 6mm2 cable with fuse holder etc so that I can wire it in direct to the leisure battery. I wish I didn't buy from Bigwave Campers, Bude............
If you have a 240V socket connected plug a power tool in? Or a tyre pump Or cool box on the 12v socket? Anything that will add a bit of a load and drop the voltage down on the battery.
 
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