Dippy Question: a 25amp inline fuse problem
- Thread starter Celex
- Start date
If the other fuse is larger that larger one is likely the feed to your leisure system.
But I would check your leisure battery is charging - if the fuse fed that it might be some time before things stop working as the leisure battery runs out of charge.
A smaller fuse may well be a feed to an aftermarket towbar modules if you have one?
As an aside this negative cable needs moving from the battery post, there must be no connections that side of the shunt other than the battery itself. The wing bracket bolts on the other side of the battery are a commonly used ground for additional wiring.
But I would check your leisure battery is charging - if the fuse fed that it might be some time before things stop working as the leisure battery runs out of charge.
A smaller fuse may well be a feed to an aftermarket towbar modules if you have one?
As an aside this negative cable needs moving from the battery post, there must be no connections that side of the shunt other than the battery itself. The wing bracket bolts on the other side of the battery are a commonly used ground for additional wiring.
Thank you for the response and info. Been travelling in van today and again everything appears in order and to work. We have a Sergeant EC328 PCS box which shows the leisure battery charge as good 12.4volts. The same box has been showing the vehicle battery at normal good state of charge but the display also moves constantly up and down the voltage; this is a new thing and perhaps in some way points to the battery which is new in 2023 and is a VARTA AGM 80ah which has been registered on the van by the garage. The compressor fridge works and the Webasto heating also operates as usual when stationary and ignition off. Have had a new Carista dongle on and this shows 1 Basic OBD2 fault code of P24C6 and accompanying Engine fault code that flags up same problem i.e. 'particulate matter sensor temperature has current fault' which I guess means getting a new unit fitted. But would have thought that any wiring for this piece of kit would be integral to the VW harness and no part of what looks like ancillary wiring as shown. The vehicle came from Bilbo's, it's one of their conversions and so intriguing that your BTW advice should show something amiss unless such advice is post 2016 conversion date. Would be grateful if I could hear further from you. Rob
with the engine running, your leisure battery should be showing more than 12.4V, it should be closer to 14V
Same here mine shows 14.2v with engine running
The voltage on the starter battery will move around quite a bit on a smart alternator van - the presence of the shunt on the battery means it's a smart alternator so you'd expect reasonably healthy off charge voltage or peaks of high voltage while charging.
The trick to double check is to put an electrical load on the van, such as a high heater fan speed, which should cause the alternator to engage and you should see the high charging voltage (which may be higher than you might be used to from conventional alternators).
Given that you are a smart alternator you shouldn't be using a split charge relay - there should be a DC-DC charger somewhere.
Unfortunately we see quite a number of electrical systems, usually based around the all one one type devices, even from well established converters, that are not wired to account for smart alternators, hence why the first check folks will ask for is pictures of the battery and charging system. The no direct connections to the battery terminal is standing advice for any smart alternator vehicle - it will be in the VW manual around charging - but it's often not followed by converters/towbar fitters.
I would add pictures of the rest of your system - control panel, leisure battery, the EC328 PSU and as much wiring as you can
The trick to double check is to put an electrical load on the van, such as a high heater fan speed, which should cause the alternator to engage and you should see the high charging voltage (which may be higher than you might be used to from conventional alternators).
Given that you are a smart alternator you shouldn't be using a split charge relay - there should be a DC-DC charger somewhere.
Unfortunately we see quite a number of electrical systems, usually based around the all one one type devices, even from well established converters, that are not wired to account for smart alternators, hence why the first check folks will ask for is pictures of the battery and charging system. The no direct connections to the battery terminal is standing advice for any smart alternator vehicle - it will be in the VW manual around charging - but it's often not followed by converters/towbar fitters.
I would add pictures of the rest of your system - control panel, leisure battery, the EC328 PSU and as much wiring as you can
Hello responders. Apologies to Salty Spuds and Bargy62: leisure battery voltage reading is without engine running. The Control Panel (see image) will not operate when engine is running (see image). Same goes for the vehicle battery readings moving up and down; this is when engine off. Thank you roadtripper I'll get the VW manual out re alternator info. Rob.
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