DPF Regen Frequency / Issues / Force discussion.

@Kierand I thought it was only beta recently that could show soot levels, but not been using it long.
Anyway, I can confirm that with beta you can trigger a successful regen when you want to. It's way better to do it on a journey as at idle it just drinks the juice. Make sure you have over 1/4 tank of fuel in or it will be inhibited.
Its now in the general release/latest version.
 
Its now in the general release/latest version.
@Loz Great news. It's such a pain switching back and forth between standard and beta.

Do you know if they have put an 'are you sure' check in after you hit the regen button? It was too easily pushed when monitoring soot levels on the road and regen would just start.
 
Is there a way to force a regeneration via VCDS ? I'm not sure if the readings are good or bad,I dont drive it very often but when I do I make sure its a min of 30mins driving ( just went out for 45 mins in sport mode and it didn't even get to 90')

20201230_200349.jpg
 
See below.

2.0l R4 CR-TDI (CAN)
With the newer CR-TDI engines there are 2 different types of regenerations available depending on the actual soot mass/load. If either the calculated or measured soot mass is above 30g but below 40g you can initiate a regeneration while standing (Idle will be raised etc.), a forced regeneration while driving is also possible. Once the values are above 40g (but below the max 45g) the regeneration while standing is no longer available and the regeneration while driving is the only way.

Regeneration while Standing/Idle
Prerequisites (General):
  • Ignition ON
  • Engine ON (Idle)
  • Fuel Tank at least 1/4 full
  • Transmission in Neutral/Park
  • Parking Brake engaged
  • Coolant Temperature above 70 °C (see MVB 002.4)
  • Particle Filter Load below Specification (see MVB 108.2/3 -or- 241.2/3 VCDS should give the specified values)
    • If the Particle Filter Load is above Specification the Particle Filter needs to be replaced since the car may burn down when regenerating.
  • Power Consumers ON (Light, Seat Heating, Front/Rear Window Heater, Climate Control)
  • Engine Hood Closed
[Select]
[01 - Engine]

[Security Access - 16]

  • Enter the Code shown by VCDS next to Adaptation Enabling (e.g. Regeneration while Standing)
[Do It!]

[Basic Settings - 04]

  • Select Block for Regeneration while Standing
[Go!]
[On/Off/Next]
if Basic Settings isn't automatically ON at the top of the screen.
  • Follow the Instructions on the Screen. This process may take up to 30 minutes.
[Done, Go Back]

Check the following groups after the regen. The Particle Filter Load should be as low as possible (close to 0 %)
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Select Blocks 099 and 108 at once.
[Go!]

MVB 099.2: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Turbo Charger
MVB 099.3: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Particle Filter
MVB 099.4: Exhaust Gas Temperature after Particle Filter

MVB 108.2: Particle Filter Soot Mass (calculated) Alternate group 241.2 if 108 is blank
MVB 108.3: Particle Filter Soot Mass (measured) Alternate group 241.3 if 108 is blank

[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]


Regeneration while Driving

Prerequisites (General):
  • Ignition ON
  • Engine ON (Idle)
  • Coolant Temperature above 70 °C (see MVB 002.4)
  • Particle Filter Load below Specification (see MVB 108.2/3, VCDS should give the specified values)
    • If the Particle Filter Load is above Specification the Particle Filter needs to be replaced since the car may burn down when regenerating.
    • If the Particle Filter Load value in MVB 108 is blank, use alternate group 241.2/3 instead.
  • Power Consumers ON (Light, Seat Heating, Front/Rear Window Heater, Climate Control)
  • Engine Hood Closed
Conditions (Driving Cycle):
  • Vehicle Speed above 60 km/h (40 MPH)
  • Engine Speed between 2000-2500 RPM (4th or 5th Gear, Automatic Transmission in Tiptronic)
  • Duration approx. 10-15 Minutes
  • Exhaust Gas Temperature before Turbo Charger above 170 °C (MVB 099.2)
  • Exhaust Gas Temperature before Diesel Particle Filter above 150 °C (MVB 099.3)
  • Exhaust Gas Temperature after Diesel Particle Filter above 150 °C (MVB 099.4)
Drive the car based on the above Conditions until the Particle Filter Load is as low as possible (close to 0 %). In case the Regeneration fails there can either be problems with the Driving Cycle Conditions or with the Engine Hardware.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]

[Security Access - 16]

  • Enter the Code shown by VCDS next to Adaptation Enabling (e.g. Regeneration while Driving)

[Do It!]

[Adaptation - 10]

  • Select Channel for Regeneration while Driving
[Read]
  • Enter/Save 1 as new Value.
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]

[Meas. Blocks - 08]

Select Blocks 099 and 108 at once.
[Go!]

MVB 099.2: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Turbo Charger
MVB 099.3: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Particle Filter
MVB 099.4: Exhaust Gas Temperature after Particle Filter

MVB 108.2 or 241.2: Particle Filter Soot Mass (calculated)
MVB 108.3 or 241.3: Particle Filter Soot Mass (measured)

Now Start the Driving Cycle and keep watching the Measuring Blocks (2nd Person required).

[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]


 
Is there a way to force a regeneration via VCDS ? I'm not sure if the readings are good or bad,I dont drive it very often but when I do I make sure its a min of 30mins driving ( just went out for 45 mins in sport mode and it didn't even get to 90')

View attachment 96911
I wouldn't force it. It has done it quite recently so there is not much soot to burn. It will do it again in about 150 km's. Keep eye on soot mass calculated. The regen starts when it reaches approx. 24 grams or 30 grams (depending on engine software version).

Have a look here:
 
How does the system know how much soot is in the DPF? Is it based on an algorithm where it mo itors fuel burnt, or does it actually have a way of wrighing the soot?
 
Sooo, I needed to pop to the shop today. Only about a mile away, but knew my soot level was about 30g.
Tank over half full, so thought I'd take it for a quick regen.
Practically started the regen out of the end of my road. Didn't wait for it to warm up, just started dumping fuel in and idle up at 1000rpm for longer than it should be. Started warming up real quick, and then started to reduce soot levels way before the engine was at full temp. then I got on A3 and it didn't really need revving above 2000rpm as it was constantly reducing.

Mine is a 2019, and had a software update in Nov 2020 specifically for the DSG delay, but who knows if any other trickery got uploaded at the same time.
Anyway, just reporting my experiences.

Also, in a totally non-scientific way, it looks like regens at idol or cold suck in loads of fuel as their primary goal is to get everything hot more quickly. Whereas on the run I don't even know it is doing it. I let it do it once outside my house idoling. Used about 25 miles of fuel based on my totally inaccurate assessment of the needle moving by a whole graduation!...

I love the fact Carista can tell me what is going on!
 
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Hi all.
I've had DPF regen issues since owning my T6 150hp Its covered 85k . I drive it a lot, about an hour almost everyday on motorways, yet quite often, when i go on a short journey and stop the fan goes into hyperdrive. (which i presume is the regen). I've just ordered a Carista to confirm,
Anyway, dare i ask the question.......would it be better if i just removed the DPF (either replace with a new stainless dummy, or remove the insides and weld back). And then map it out.
Also, would any of you blank the EGR?
id like to add, i think van has previously had a remap as its very quick for a 150hp compared to others i've driven. I get a little judder under heavy load (which im putting down to a bad map). So i was debating about a reputable MAP and a DPF remove?
Any thoughts or experiences?
Thank You
 
I think getting Carista is the right first step. It might be that your just unlucky with regen timing. Carista gives you the option to trigger a regen when you want, so if you are 30 miles from home with nearly 30g of soot and know your next journeys will be short ones, just regen.

How old is the van?

DPF removal is illegal, but some do it. Not sure the EGR is at the same level of naughtiness, but others will confirm. I’m no fan of the EGR, but by removing it your combustion and likely engine temps will go up, although I’m not sure that would matter if you’re UK based.

Reputable map and dpf removal may not go hand in hand.

If you think your current map is not great, maybe take it to VW and have them flash the latest software. I believe it manages regen sand adblue issues better, then see how it is for a while.

I’m sure far more knowledgable members will be along to comment, or correct me ;)
 
I think getting Carista is the right first step. It might be that your just unlucky with regen timing. Carista gives you the option to trigger a regen when you want, so if you are 30 miles from home with nearly 30g of soot and know your next journeys will be short ones, just regen.

How old is the van?

DPF removal is illegal, but some do it. Not sure the EGR is at the same level of naughtiness, but others will confirm. I’m no fan of the EGR, but by removing it your combustion and likely engine temps will go up, although I’m not sure that would matter if you’re UK based.

Reputable map and dpf removal may not go hand in hand.

If you think your current map is not great, maybe take it to VW and have them flash the latest software. I believe it manages regen sand adblue issues better, then see how it is for a while.

I’m sure far more knowledgable members will be along to comment, or correct me ;)
Interesting your van regens at 30g of soot, mine starts to regen at 24 and stops when it reaches 6g. Will be interesting to see if mine changes after the software update in a fortnight's time.
 
Interesting your van regens at 30g of soot, mine starts to regen at 24 and stops when it reaches 6g. Will be interesting to see if mine changes after the software update in a fortnight's time.
Yep, bang on 30 too, down to a little under 8. There will be some tolerance between the sensors and reader, so no idea how they calibrate them.
 
Hi all.
I've had DPF regen issues since owning my T6 150hp Its covered 85k . I drive it a lot, about an hour almost everyday on motorways, yet quite often, when i go on a short journey and stop the fan goes into hyperdrive. (which i presume is the regen). I've just ordered a Carista to confirm,
Anyway, dare i ask the question.......would it be better if i just removed the DPF (either replace with a new stainless dummy, or remove the insides and weld back). And then map it out.
Also, would any of you blank the EGR?
id like to add, i think van has previously had a remap as its very quick for a 150hp compared to others i've driven. I get a little judder under heavy load (which im putting down to a bad map). So i was debating about a reputable MAP and a DPF remove?
Any thoughts or experiences?
Thank You
I’d recommend going to a reputable company that could offer you a good map.... REVO or Pendle. Have them flash it back to factory, then start a fresh :thumbsup:
 
I think getting Carista is the right first step. It might be that your just unlucky with regen timing. Carista gives you the option to trigger a regen when you want, so if you are 30 miles from home with nearly 30g of soot and know your next journeys will be short ones, just regen.

How old is the van?

DPF removal is illegal, but some do it. Not sure the EGR is at the same level of naughtiness, but others will confirm. I’m no fan of the EGR, but by removing it your combustion and likely engine temps will go up, although I’m not sure that would matter if you’re UK based.

Reputable map and dpf removal may not go hand in hand.

If you think your current map is not great, maybe take it to VW and have them flash the latest software. I believe it manages regen sand adblue issues better, then see how it is for a while.

I’m sure far more knowledgable members will be along to comment, or correct me ;)
Its a 2017.
I was wondering how much VW would charge for a ECU software update?
Or is it just worth me going straight for a reputable map? Or would they charge to update it too?
Bloody DPF's are a nightmare. I've generally removed them on my previous VAG's.
 
Hi all.
I've had DPF regen issues since owning my T6 150hp Its covered 85k . I drive it a lot, about an hour almost everyday on motorways, yet quite often, when i go on a short journey and stop the fan goes into hyperdrive. (which i presume is the regen). I've just ordered a Carista to confirm,
Anyway, dare i ask the question.......would it be better if i just removed the DPF (either replace with a new stainless dummy, or remove the insides and weld back). And then map it out.
Also, would any of you blank the EGR?
id like to add, i think van has previously had a remap as its very quick for a 150hp compared to others i've driven. I get a little judder under heavy load (which im putting down to a bad map). So i was debating about a reputable MAP and a DPF remove?
Any thoughts or experiences?
Thank You

Is the only issue you have the fan going into "hyperdrive" after a short journey, or have you had other issues ?
If it's just the fan coming on, then I wouldn't worry as it's normal, and your daily motorway journey will sort the regen out.

Pete
 
Its a 2017.
I was wondering how much VW would charge for a ECU software update?
Or is it just worth me going straight for a reputable map? Or would they charge to update it too?
Bloody DPF's are a nightmare. I've generally removed them on my previous VAG's.
I’m pretty sure if you go for say the REVO, they’d have the most up to date software from VAG anyway. If you go to VW for an update, that will remove your existing map and flash it back to standard.
 
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