Electric Hook-up - Cut Into The Bodywork

[RedshankS]

Hi - I'm new to the forum and apologies if this has already been covered, but I couldn't find anything on the topic.

I'm just about to embark on a T6 conversion (I had a T2 previously).

I've seen lots of discussion about hiding the electric hook-up (under the bonnet, etc) - is there any reason why owners don't just opt for cutting the bodywork and fitting a flush hook-up (as below) - which is very easy to access, etc

Is this a complete no no and, if anyone has gone for it, any tips?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caravan-Ma...FGM480JY5S2&psc=1&refRID=NH687AFTJFGM480JY5S2

Cheers

Andrew

PS - great website - unbelievably helpful.

 

[Ads_Essex]

Hello @RedshankS and welcome.

Most people opt not to cut the bodywork to prevent rust issues later down the line.
Some - like myself - also prefer the stealthiness. My EHU point is under the bonnet, so whilst I doubt anyone would, it’s secure as once the bonnet is down the plug cannot be removed.
Water fill is a similar thing - mines within the fuel filler recess (EU5 engine). Others hide theirs within the step if they’ve gone underslung and don’t fancy cutting a whole in the panel work.

Tell us a bit about your van.

 

[czmate1999]

Hi - I'm new to the forum and apologies if this has already been covered, but I couldn't find anything on the topic.

I'm just about to embark on a T6 conversion (I had a T2 previously).

I've seen lots of discussion about hiding the electric hook-up (under the bonnet, etc) - is there any reason why owners don't just opt for cutting the bodywork and fitting a flush hook-up (as below) - which is very easy to access, etc

Is this a complete no no and, if anyone has gone for it, any tips?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caravan-Ma...FGM480JY5S2&psc=1&refRID=NH687AFTJFGM480JY5S2

Cheers

Andrew

PS - great website - unbelievably helpful.

Completely agree with @Ads_Essex. Why cut any unnecessary holes in your van. I am about to get mine done and have stressed to the converters that the only hole to be cut in it is the pop top .

CZ.

 

[Base1388]

For me all those cut out holes and vents seen in vans are just very ugly and completely unnecessary
A little more effort and planning and they can be avoided

 

[RedshankS]

Hi - that's really helpful. I get the comments completely and under bonnet makes sense (especially when I need to run a 12volt line from the battery anyway). I do, however, like the convenience of a small hook-up/flap on the back side of the van - and I think it looks fine. Can't decide!!

The van is going in shortly for the roof conversion, windows & insulation/lining, so I need to make a decision soon.

Tell us a bit about your van.

It's an "off the shelf" Transporter - 10 months old, long wheel base. 102 bhp engine. Not very exciting at the moment but I'm really looking forward to the transformation!

Cheers

 

[travelvolts]

It all comes down to personal preference in the end. However, there is a practical consideration too. Over time the plastic flap on the flush ones can degrade due to UV activity leading to the flap breaking off. This can sometimes be a right pig to change, depending on what access has been left on the inside of the vehicle. Just something to consider if you go down that route.

 

[Ayjay]

It's all down to personal opinion but I would ask why on earth anybody would choose to cut a lump out of the side of the van when there's a perfectly good, almost non-invasive, alternative that works?

 

[Teesix]

Mine's just behind the rear bumper. I felt that was the best place (for me) as I didn't want to have to deal with the issues travelvolts mentioned, and I didn't like the idea of it being under the bonnet.

 

[Grim Reaper]

There are alternative places for it, there is a suggested max of 2m between inlet and breaker to think about.

 

[RedshankS]

Hi - I did see some of the really neat solutions like Grim Reaper's, but that doesn't work with barn doors .

Having heard all the comments, I was swayed to the under-bonnet solution, but then the max 2m distance get's thrown in and that sends me back to cutting the bodywork - which seems to be a "no no" for most.

Is the 2m point a real issue?

Cheers

 

[Teesix]

Check mine. No 2m issues.

 

[Teesix]

A

 

[RedshankS]

Brilliant Teesix - I think that sorts it for me.

 

[Ayjay]

Mine's just behind the rear bumper. I felt that was the best place (for me) as I didn't want to have to deal with the issues travelvolts mentioned, and I didn't like the idea of it being under the bonnet.

I know I'm probably being thicker than usual but what are the 'issues travelvolts mentioned'? I did read and reread all the posts on this thread but am still missing something! What's the 2M business about?

Grim Reaper - love the colour of that van - makes my Acapulco Blue look positively boring.

 

[St4n99]

Mines sits below the quarter under van and it's not visible untill you look under , just like under rear bumper

 

[rod_vw]

Mine is like this...



VW California unit modified to feed an under chassis water tank as well as the electrics. The actual EHU is a propriety caravan one as it fits perfectly and a lot cheaper than VW. Likewise the water filler top. So the only expensive VW part is the Cali frame with water filler neck.

You can only do this on a LWB as it would foul the door on a SWB. The location is exactly as on a Cali in relation to the swage line and the rear light assembly. Fools the Cali owners no end!

 

[Ads_Essex]

I know I'm probably being thicker than usual but what are the 'issues travelvolts mentioned'? I did read and reread all the posts on this thread but am still missing something!

These:

It all comes down to personal preference in the end. However, there is a practical consideration too. Over time the plastic flap on the flush ones can degrade due to UV activity leading to the flap breaking off. This can sometimes be a right pig to change, depending on what access has been left on the inside of the vehicle. Just something to consider if you go down that route.

And as for your 2m query:

There is a suggested max of 2m between inlet and breaker.

 

[andys]

Mine is like this...

View attachment 52450

VW California unit modified to feed an under chassis water tank as well as the electrics. The actual EHU is a propriety caravan one as it fits perfectly and a lot cheaper than VW. Likewise the water filler top. So the only expensive VW part is the Cali frame with water filler neck.

You can only do this on a LWB as it would foul the door on a SWB. The location is exactly as on a Cali in relation to the swage line and the rear light assembly. Fools the Cali owners no end!

Couldn’t you just turn it upside down and put it on the other side if you wanted it on a SWB?

 

[Ayjay]

Ads, Thanks for that - I think I knew that I was being thick (er) and that will teach me to put my glasses on to read posts on my iPad rather than having to zoom into the text and not see the whole screen!

On the last point, it was the real world implications of going over 2M that I was interested in - can anybody enlighten me please?

 

[Grim Reaper]

The Caravan club recommendations for electrical installations says no more than 2 metres between inlet point and breaker, I suppose this is to minimise the possibility of any wear on the cable between the inlet and the breaker causing a rub through to the conductors shorting out to the chassis and causing a live chassis situation.
https://www.caravanclub.co.uk/media/1022895/mains-electrical-installations-mo.pdf
I have seen other documents suggesting that length reduced to 1.6 metres.
If you put a long cable run from bonnet area through the van with many twists, turns and passing through of holes, you increase the likelihood of a break through the insulation occurring.