no i thought 1st time it was inverter cos it had been left on - (but not this time) fridge only on when away.
the earths are just how you showed me in the diagrams above
Epic-Rob’s Lithium Leisure Build Thread
- Thread starter Grim Reaper
- Start date
the earths are just how you showed me in the diagrams above
sorry, I updated my post in the meantime.
Does the battery monitor indicate a drain at all?
Does the battery monitor indicate a drain at all?
A good (if difficult to understand) explanation of use and setting of battery monitors by Victron.
will look at battery monitor when i put fully charged batteries back in, the shunt meter (battery monitor?) is a voltex. re the fridge and inverter earths - i would have to look but they are how you told me to do them, as per your earlier sketches.
If you see drain current on the monitor when you turn either the fridge or the inverter on then that would suggest they are wired correctly.
Just need to work out what is sucking charge out of the system via monitoring the shunt current or using a multimeter to look for voltage drops across fuses.
Do you have USB chargers in the system? they can drain batteries even though they have nothing plugged into them, a constant low current drain can flatten batteries without you even noticing.
Just need to work out what is sucking charge out of the system via monitoring the shunt current or using a multimeter to look for voltage drops across fuses.
Do you have USB chargers in the system? they can drain batteries even though they have nothing plugged into them, a constant low current drain can flatten batteries without you even noticing.
charge up the batteries.
get them back in the van.
then take some updated pics of the install.
and screenshots of the shunt readings and any voltage readings.
as @Grim Reaper says . . . . something is draining the battery bank.
with a shunt installed its should be super easy to identify what is drawing power . . .
the shunt will meter out all power in/out the battery.
so provided its all connected correctly . . . you will see a perm battery draw.
then just start switching things off untill you find whats running the batterys flat.
get them back in the van.
then take some updated pics of the install.
and screenshots of the shunt readings and any voltage readings.
as @Grim Reaper says . . . . something is draining the battery bank.
with a shunt installed its should be super easy to identify what is drawing power . . .
the shunt will meter out all power in/out the battery.
so provided its all connected correctly . . . you will see a perm battery draw.
then just start switching things off untill you find whats running the batterys flat.
i put batteries back in today (FULLY charged) still only showing 75% soc on shunt meter (it showed 100% when i fitted it up around christmas with yours and GR help) i am getting power in from solar, was showing a 0.3 amp charge on shunt meter but nothing when engine running from dcdc charger - i am thinking this could be because batteries full? there was no drain showing on shunt with all off.
I am thinking this electrickery stuff is probly better left to someone who knows what they are doing and how to test it all properly. i have a limited understanding of this area :-(
I can't find a manual online for the Voltex battery monitor (and the Voltex website just appears to show Victron stuff)
can you give specific model number and / or pics?
can you give specific model number and / or pics?
You don't still have the wire on the shunt like this do you?
I'm not sure of the current capacity of the braided strap but that thin wire on the other end with a crimp terminal on it is definitely not rated to 100A.
I'm not sure of the current capacity of the braided strap but that thin wire on the other end with a crimp terminal on it is definitely not rated to 100A.
Will post voltronic manual tomorrow and a pic of shunt - but i did it just how you said before and it was all good, shunt is/was telling me exactly what was going in and out, even when inverter on.
additional info . . . the shunt needs to be recalibrated when the battery's are removed.
the shunt doesn't know the battery's are fully charged.
so . . .
you need to go into the shunt settings and tell the shunt the battery's are now 100% . .
or connect the charger to the van and let the shunt reset to 100% its self as the battery's get full.
the shunt doesn't know the battery's are fully charged.
so . . .
you need to go into the shunt settings and tell the shunt the battery's are now 100% . .
or connect the charger to the van and let the shunt reset to 100% its self as the battery's get full.
https://aasolar.co.nz/wp-content/up...ry-Computer-100S200S400S-with-smart-shunt.pdf
this is my shunt meter - the thick earth goes directly to battery behind and the other is to DCDC, earth strap is to seat bolt.
this is my shunt meter - the thick earth goes directly to battery behind and the other is to DCDC, earth strap is to seat bolt.
Last edited:
Having looked back through the posts , the circuit diagram for dc-dc and the inverter looks correct in post #8 but by post #10, both inverter and dc-dc are connected to the wrong side of the shunt.
The shunt works by counting all current flow into the batteries and subtracting all the current flow out of the batteries - as it’s wired, it doesn’t see any current flow from the dc-dc to charge the batteries, or any current flow when the inverter is used - so it can’t track the state of charge of the batteries correctly
Simon
Well you may be right on that, looking at page 3 of the shunt manual on #32 it does look like i should have the DCDC earth on the other shunt terminal.
shunt does seem to work ok though.
I think post 10 was prior to re wiring a bit but yes does look like dcdc earth may be on wrong side.
Quick update.
I swopped DCDC Earth to other side of shunt.
Also found that the fuse between dcdc charger and LB had blown (50a) didnt look blown in glass but faulty, so changed that and found getting a good 14v into LB (showing on shunt)
also fitted Anderson plug so if need be i can charge my LB without having to take seat out.
so we will see what happens now - there is still the potential issue of starter battery discharging over a number of days, i have put a blue tooth batt monitor on that so........ watch this space ;-)
Once again thanks all for the advice and tips.
I swopped DCDC Earth to other side of shunt.
Also found that the fuse between dcdc charger and LB had blown (50a) didnt look blown in glass but faulty, so changed that and found getting a good 14v into LB (showing on shunt)
also fitted Anderson plug so if need be i can charge my LB without having to take seat out.
so we will see what happens now - there is still the potential issue of starter battery discharging over a number of days, i have put a blue tooth batt monitor on that so........ watch this space ;-)
Once again thanks all for the advice and tips.
What DC-DC charger have you got?
Has it got any IGN feed or BCM run feed?
What switch es it on / off.?
Does it have any led indicator to say it's on?
Has it got any IGN feed or BCM run feed?
What switch es it on / off.?
Does it have any led indicator to say it's on?
From the pictures in #10 , it looks like its an NDS power service plus - not something I've come across before
Just had a quick look at the manual
"the output current is limited if the POWERSERVICE detects an active signal D+ (or ignition+) and starter battery voltage below 13V.the device switches off completely if it detects a voltage of 12.8V at the starter battery, or if the signal D+ or Ignition+ (ie engine shutdown) is no longer detected.7
CAUTION
When selecting the intelligent alternator (Euro6)charging curve, the activation and deactivation thresholds of the device are as follows: activation >12Vand deactivation <11.8V. in the latter case, the activation TIMES WILL ALSO BE DELAYED .If you choose the ignition+ signal instead of the D+, don’t leave the power on for more than 30 seconds."
Have you set it to D Curve for charging?
Are you connecting an ignition+ to connector 4 - Does this really turn off with ignition? Are you using the AUX connection pin 5?
Are you connecting to both GND pins - 1 &2 - There only seems to be one black lead in your photos, but its hard to see.
Simon
Just had a quick look at the manual
"the output current is limited if the POWERSERVICE detects an active signal D+ (or ignition+) and starter battery voltage below 13V.the device switches off completely if it detects a voltage of 12.8V at the starter battery, or if the signal D+ or Ignition+ (ie engine shutdown) is no longer detected.7
CAUTION
When selecting the intelligent alternator (Euro6)charging curve, the activation and deactivation thresholds of the device are as follows: activation >12Vand deactivation <11.8V. in the latter case, the activation TIMES WILL ALSO BE DELAYED .If you choose the ignition+ signal instead of the D+, don’t leave the power on for more than 30 seconds."
Have you set it to D Curve for charging?
Are you connecting an ignition+ to connector 4 - Does this really turn off with ignition? Are you using the AUX connection pin 5?
Are you connecting to both GND pins - 1 &2 - There only seems to be one black lead in your photos, but its hard to see.
Simon
Similar threads
- Locked
