Flexi to framed solar panel and MTTP controller upgrade - help needed!

feralroo

New Member
VIP Member
Hello,

Bought a camper earlier this year and it came with a duff flexi solar panel - it had been perimeter sealed so likely overheated within its first summer.

IMG_2231.jpeg

Last weekend I bit the bullet and worked/prized it off...

IMG_2271.jpeg

And sat the new 200w fixed frames in place. I didn't like how they looked so sprayed up the edges...

IMG_2290.jpeg
IMG_2300.jpeg
IMG_2304.jpeg

Much better!

Not too bothered about the roof... the paint that came off was on the pop top so it wont rust but one thing on my mind is whether I should at least seal the edges of where the paint broke to prevent ingress or flaking? Feel free to chime in if you have any advice!

But back to the matter at hand... After reading about MTTP controllers as a massive upgrade I immediately went on Facebook marketplace and got myself a Victron 100v/30a. It's quite a lot bigger than my weeny 10a controller and the Renogy Wanderer that came with the fixed frame solar kit, but it's almost a straight swap in.

One point where it differs is that the heatsink on the controller needs to have an earth wire connected to a common earth/ground on the van's electric system. I'm not seeing any obvious opportunities to do this and would rather not need to disassemble all the cabinets if possible. I managed to route the new solar wires without too much hassle and simply snipped the old ones and left them in place. I'm a DIYer muddling my way through this but keen to do it in the proper way. I've got a 30a breaker/fuse on the way to go between the + solar cable and the controller which I've read is a good idea, I'm just stumped on this controller earthing situation.

So, if anyone can look at the below images and offer any advice on where I might be able to connect it, I'd be super grateful. Cheers.

IMG_2320.jpeg
IMG_2321.jpeg
IMG_2317.jpeg

Here's the battery and inverter

IMG_2322.jpeg
 
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From the pictures you have the 30A version not the 50A?

That's an isolated version so you ground the heatsink if needed, only applies to the 30A version.


You should be fine without this in a metal bodied van, it's more applicable if you had an exposed solar array on a house roof or in a garden and needed to ground things due to lightning.
 
From the pictures you have the 30A version not the 50A?

That's an isolated version so you ground the heatsink if needed, only applies to the 30A version.


You should be fine without this in a metal bodied van, it's more applicable if you had an exposed solar array on a house roof or in a garden and needed to ground things due to lightning.
Indeed - well spotted! I have the 30a version - have updated my original post. This is great news :)
 
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I'd also be more worried about ensuring there is a good fuse on the charger <> battery side than the charger <> panel side :thumbsup:
 
I'd also be more worried about ensuring there is a good fuse on the charger <> battery side than the charger <> panel side :thumbsup:
Thanks. I believe there is one already. I'm not sure the power is coming straight from the controller because there's a split charger and EHU in the mix also. Perhaps it's also fused at the Sargent PSU/panel above (I see a 20a fuse for the battery). Wish the second hand camper came with a schematic.
fuse.jpg
 
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Hello,

Bought a camper earlier this year and it came with a duff flexi solar panel - it had been perimeter sealed so likely overheated within its first summer.

View attachment 248905

Last weekend I bit the bullet and worked/prized it off...

View attachment 248906

And sat the new 200w fixed frames in place. I didn't like how they looked so sprayed up the edges...

View attachment 248907
View attachment 248908
View attachment 248909

Much better!

Not too bothered about the roof... the paint that came off was on the pop top so it wont rust but one thing on my mind is whether I should at least seal the edges of where the paint broke to prevent ingress or flaking? Feel free to chime in if you have any advice!

But back to the matter at hand... After reading about MTTP controllers as a massive upgrade I immediately went on Facebook marketplace and got myself a Victron 100v/50a. It's quite a lot bigger than my weeny 10a controller and the Renogy Wanderer that came with the fixed frame solar kit, but it's almost a straight swap in.

One point where it differs is that the heatsink on the controller needs to have an earth wire connected to a common earth/ground on the van's electric system. I'm not seeing any obvious opportunities to do this and would rather not need to disassemble all the cabinets if possible. I managed to route the new solar wires without too much hassle and simply snipped the old ones and left them in place. I'm a DIYer muddling my way through this but keen to do it in the proper way. I've got a 30a breaker/fuse on the way to go between the + solar cable and the controller which I've read is a good idea, I'm just stumped on this controller earthing situation.

So, if anyone can look at the below images and offer any advice on where I might be able to connect it, I'd be super grateful. Cheers.

View attachment 248912
View attachment 248913
View attachment 248914

Here's the battery and inverter

View attachment 248915
Looks nice ..
 
Looks nice ..
Ah I love it! Still got a few things to do - attaching a ladder to the back for a custom bike rack and would like to lift it to stock or a little above (it's 40mm lowered from stock). The low front splitter has been removed since. I want to be able to negotiate tougher trails on the continent some day.

IMG_0063.jpegIMG_9687.jpg
 
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