I've literally just been talking to Mark at Titan as I try to plan a conversion for next year. My understanding is that I'd need to get the floor built back up and wondered how easy/expensive a process you'd found that?! Cheers
Floor Rails... Worth It?
- Thread starter Louise and Vinny
- Start date
Finally had rails and bed fitted last tuesday. Delays due to the dreaded lurgy.
As i had already insulated floor. I had to strip out a couple of strips of insulation/sound proofing so rails could be fixed to bear metal.
I am looking at floor fitting this weekend. So can't comment yet. But floor will be thicker than planned to match depth of rails.
They did a super job at fitting although not been playing round with it much yet as had work. Will have a play this weekend.
Have been working on floor a few days. I am a little slow
Its a bit of a pain packing floor out to right level. When i click aluminium rail covers into rails after installing polysafe over floor i want a nice snug tight fit so am being a bit anal about it.
I may have to run a plane over my packing as 1mm makes all the difference.
Ah... so if I already have a conversion, but I wanted to change the rib bed for a slider, then it would mean taking everything out and starting again then?
I've got the Cambee Flex 118 three seater.
Pros:
Rails run fully front to back
Plenty of stop positions to place the seat on the rails
Seat height is just right
Comfy bed and seat
Rear bed portion can be completely removed for extra space
Massive draw beneath seat
Cons:
Sliding mechanism is slightly primitive compared to California system which I believe is on roller bearings
Draw is just screwed in place and although the bed is crash tested the screws for the draw would surely shear
Pros:
Rails run fully front to back
Plenty of stop positions to place the seat on the rails
Seat height is just right
Comfy bed and seat
Rear bed portion can be completely removed for extra space
Massive draw beneath seat
Cons:
Sliding mechanism is slightly primitive compared to California system which I believe is on roller bearings
Draw is just screwed in place and although the bed is crash tested the screws for the draw would surely shear
They would need access to metal floor in at least clear strips where rails to be fitted. I had already sound proofed/insulated and fitted floor before deciding on a crash tested bed. So i had to strip out a couple of strips and am in process of packing out anew to adjust for rail height.Ah... so if I already have a conversion, but I wanted to change the rib bed for a slider, then it would mean taking everything out and starting again then?
I am thinking off doing the same rock and roll seat in my van how thick are your packing pieces off woodHave been working on floor a few days. I am a little slow
Its a bit of a pain packing floor out to right level. When i click aluminium rail covers into rails after installing polysafe over floor i want a nice snug tight fit so am being a bit anal about it.
I may have to run a plane over my packing as 1mm makes all the difference.
View attachment 82829
how much floor height do you lose do you have any more photos of the process
Thanks rob
Did you manage to fit the aluminium rails to the floor rails?Have been working on floor a few days. I am a little slow
Its a bit of a pain packing floor out to right level. When i click aluminium rail covers into rails after installing polysafe over floor i want a nice snug tight fit so am being a bit anal about it.
I may have to run a plane over my packing as 1mm makes all the difference.
View attachment 82829
Not done yet as was holding off gluing down polyfloor till sorted out panels. Issues with hidden clips and ply thickness, going to have to scrap original VW self tapper screwed in 5mm boards and get some thinner ply which should work with clips.
Harrisons confirmed to use hidden clips you need thinner ply 3.x mm to comfortably use clips, i am not going to recess clips, as clips probably not strong enough to pull in 5mm ply.
Harrisons confirmed to use hidden clips you need thinner ply 3.x mm to comfortably use clips, i am not going to recess clips, as clips probably not strong enough to pull in 5mm ply.
Just reviving an old thread, but needs must... Are there any beds on rails where you can still stow a porta-potti under the seat? We have a fixed RIB bed at the moment and a Fiamma biopic justifies under perfectly. Thanks.
Just to give you an idea. If you went for a cali bed you have to have a parcel shelf or some other way of making the rest of the bed up. This would be perfect to store a porta-potti under. Check out my build thread for something similar. Admittedly I'm not installing a toilet but the unit I'm building behind the bed could be easily modified for this.
Thanks, both. Having the porta-potti accessible inside both daytime and in the evening when the bed is set up is a deal-breaker for me.
I have been pondering changing from a full camper conversion to more of a day-van/part-time camper set-up, but haven't thought of a decent way to achieve this yet. Thanks.
I have been pondering changing from a full camper conversion to more of a day-van/part-time camper set-up, but haven't thought of a decent way to achieve this yet. Thanks.
Hi there,
I was wondering how you were getting on with the floor. I had the Rib Altair bed put on rails and fitted to OEM tracks but the floor isn’t complete yet and the rails sit way too high above the original rubber matting. I’m keen to see the final result of what looks like a lot of effort to get a floor down.
The company who fitted the seat aren’t able to do me a ‘proper’ floor until some time in the new year and now I’m wondering if there is anyone in the SW who does this sort of thing.
Hi there. Can I ask a couple of questions regarding your bed/rails?
(1) What width RIB did you get
(2) where did you source the OEM rails from
(3) I am 6'2 tall. Would the height of the RIB on the rails have me banging my head on the roof (no pop top)
Many thanks.
Hi Tim,
Of course you can.
(1) I got the 112cm one
(2) Direct from VW I think but it was the company who fitted the rail who sourced them for me.
(3) I think it would but have a sit down and measure the height of your head and I’ll measure the same in the van and you can see. I certainly touch the ceiling on the nearest seat to the side of the van and I am only 5’6”. But I won’t tend to use that seat to sit in much. I have a swivel passenger seat and I prefer that.
Thanks Si, I need about 90cm (3ft) from seat for headroom. If you could measure in your van that would be really helpful. Thanks and Happy Christmas.
Has anyone tried fitting these? Low Profile Rail
Ian thinking of getting a Titan Vari-mount with rail system has anyone got this system in there van
Would like to now how comfy it is to sleep on and how much headroom there is when sat on the seat just wondering because I am 6 foot tall
How difficult is it to do the floor thinking of the side step and the back tailgate? Plastic covers to make a nice flush finish
Thanks rob
Would like to now how comfy it is to sleep on and how much headroom there is when sat on the seat just wondering because I am 6 foot tall
How difficult is it to do the floor thinking of the side step and the back tailgate? Plastic covers to make a nice flush finish
Thanks rob
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