Floor sound-deadening

hi chaps....thanks for replies....

brackets going up...if only i knew...they were a pain to fit tbh... and they are all in ocd straight and i just cant go through taking everything off underneath again tbh
outer flanges trim a possibility i guess but it would take ages 10 to do...
doing something around all ply i guess is same as above and something i didn't think off....good call... but again labour intensive...

I'm miffed about the expense already... should have checked i guess... do you know i cant find any pics vids of the "pro van floor in use"..
its the fact I'm using factory brackets i guess otherwise we'd just nail a top on a bobs a fish..

is there an underneath liner i could use you think that has less depth...? keep looking on dodo and sound dead site but not much luck so far...
i even wondered if i could take some foam off the back of the pro van floor stuff....... sander and a complete shambles nightmare i predict... if it was just half as thick..
unless there was a machine that could do such a trick...

bah.. its frying my brain ....the "i just want to get the floor done"...final bit before interesting pod/furniture stuff has done me over... :(
 
My van is due to be converted in about a week by the Bristol Camper Company. I was suprised to learn last time we spoke that they fit thermal fleece but no sound deadening. Not in the side panels, not in the floor, none.

They say they used to do so years ago and couldn’t tell the difference. That the thermal fleece does an effective job on it’s own for both thermal and sound dreadening.

Now, I know I can easily go back later to deaden the sliding doors and tailgate, but I’m worried about the floor. Once they’ve fitted the floor, bed, cabinets…

Question is… should I deaden the floor this week? Does it add height to the floor? Is this a problem?

Would greatly appreciate your insights.
 
Just my tuppence worth. I sound deadened between the raised ribs on the floor. And since i have the Kombi rubber floor, i reckon it works for me.
But if your worried about it, do it. Would be a PITA if you wanted to do it after the conversion. And every little helps... :)
 
hoggle said:
Just my tuppence worth. I sound deadened between the raised ribs on the floor. And since i have the Kombi rubber floor, i reckon it works for me.
But if your worried about it, do it. Would be a PITA if you wanted to do it after the conversion. And every little helps... :)
Click to expand...
I hear ya. I’m a bit frustrated with the company on this point. The first van I planned to bring them had deadening, thermal lining and then the thermal fleece… and they told me they would probably take it all out in order to make sure it was done to their standard (at my expense). And then only because I asked, I find out that they don’t even do two of the three layers.

I’m worried they’ll just walk all over it and ruin it if I do it advance. Or that they’ll strip it and charge me for the privilege.
 
I sound deadened the floor with foil matting under the rubber kombi mat and cannot tell any major difference / improvement. Ribbed panels tend not to drum unlike flat panels. There has been discussion that 100% coverage of panels with butyl matting is a waste and gains little over say 50% coverage. Filling a box / cavity with insulation will cut down noise - car exhaust boxes are filled with wadding for this very purpose.

Doing parts of the floor with butyl I’d be concerned it interferes with how they stick the ply floor down. There have been many pictures on the forum of members sticking down strips of ply between the metal ribs in the floor to stop squeaks.

The biggest improvement in sound deadening for me was carpet lining the walls and roof panels.

Just my findings / observations.
 
Just to add, I’d be more inclined to stick a few butyl sheets inside the body side panels / sliding doors and fully cover the wheel arches.
 
If they are not willing to do the conversion as you wish take the van elsewhere.
 
I'm wondering if there is confusion between sound deadening and sound proofing? Deadening, as in silent coat etc. definitely works. It's effect is limited on ribbed panels such as the floor but I would question anyone who doubted its effectiveness on large flat side panels.
It seems that your conversion company of choice isn't quite what you hoped. As @DXX said, take your business elsewhere.

If they were the cheapest then this in one of the corners they cut to get there.
 
As above, surely as the paying customer, the conversion company should be working to your instructions, not the other way round.
 
Thanks all. This is super helpful, and reassuring.

I have some Deadmat duo leftover from doing the cab floor. I’ll look to stick that to the lower rear quarters, tailgate and doors.

I’ll leave the floor. I take your points about it being ribbed and therefore less prone to the type of noise you get from the larger panels.

I’ve booked in with this company and paid the deposit months ago. I’ve got to stick with it now. Just worried it’s not going to be to the right standard.
 
About to sound insulate my floor as I have the matt out for fitting floor brackets.

What are peoples thoughts on Dodo Duo vs Dodo Hex for sound insulating my kombi underneath the standard rubber matt?

Does the closed cell foam on the duo add much difference as it certainly adds to the price!!

Thanks
 
The standard mat is thick foam, I’m not sure that any additional insulation would make a noticeable difference.
Before I converted my van I slept on the mat and it wasn’t that bad given it was mid winter and no heating.
 
I did my whole cab floor with dodo hex and it made a big difference to the cab noise. I’d imagine it’s much more durable than having the dodo duo underneath as I’d be worried the foam aspect would break down under the rubber floor cover.
 
I'd be very surprised if you would noticed the difference in applying any product to the floor. I assume everyone who has done this to their floor , has also sound deadened and insulated the rest of their vans, and base their experiences on this. The sound resonance in those big thin side panels are the main culprits for excessive road noise, and fortunately the easiest to do something about. I assume most comments are made after a whole van insulation , and not applying a product to say the roof, the floor etc, and driving the vehicle and measuring the results. Personally I think applying a lot sound deadening material to the floor and ceiling, is a lot of expense for minimal return, and in fact adding quite a bit of weight to your vehicle, which will impact on your mpg.
 
It also helps to increase the amount of condensation on the inside of the van windows. IMHO. Which seems to be a big issue for some forum members.
 
Bigsidavies said:
I did my whole cab floor with dodo hex and it made a big difference to the cab noise. I’d imagine it’s much more durable than having the dodo duo underneath as I’d be worried the foam aspect would break down under the rubber floor cover.
Click to expand...
Good point, I'd not thought about that!

Dave Lawson said:
I did mine View attachment 140074in silent coat for noise reduction.
Click to expand...
How many sheets did you use Dave?

Scruffy said:
I'd be very surprised if you would noticed the difference in applying any product to the floor. I assume everyone who has done this to their floor , has also sound deadened and insulated the rest of their vans, and base their experiences on this. The sound resonance in those big thin side panels are the main culprits for excessive road noise, and fortunately the easiest to do something about. I assume most comments are made after a whole van insulation , and not applying a product to say the roof, the floor etc, and driving the vehicle and measuring the results. Personally I think applying a lot sound deadening material to the floor and ceiling, is a lot of expense for minimal return, and in fact adding quite a bit of weight to your vehicle, which will impact on your mpg.
Click to expand...
Yes I've done all the side panels and roof already. The main reason for doing it would be that I took out the rubber floor to put in some extra seat brackets and the difference in noise without it is massive!!

Not too fussed about a bit of extra weight if it's a better sound, probably a better ride with the weight in my t32 too
 
I found those trim clip removal tools were ideal for rubbing the silentcoat sheets down into the ribs, the ones with the bent ends and the flat ended one.
51jMLI-ThjL._AC_.jpg
 
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