Glue, Screw Or Both?

OllieGBR

VCDS user
T6 Guru
0F427A3D-C4FE-47EA-84EA-A1D6803795B7.jpeg After adding the foil insulation, (into the gaps) I'm going to be securing the three piece 12mm flooring.

I was just going to screw it into the 9mm ply I've glued in, however I've ready that many people glue and screw.

Gluing seams so final, if you want to make any changes it's not coming back up!

I'm going to put plenty of screws in - is there the chance of squeaking from the ply rubbing on ply? (Without glue).


Cheers
Ollie.
 
Just glued mine with Sikaflex, no screws required.

Personally I would rather not have lots of screw holes in the floor with chance of corrosion. Each to their own though. Also be carful of tanks beneath if using screws.

I also put insulation right over the ply inserts and then screwed the floor ply to the battens. I used a single piece 12mm birch ply and there is no noise. Drilled and countersunk the top ply as there is only a small amount of grip on the battens without hitting the metal. Screws won’t self countersink with a small amount of grip on the threads.

Cutting the one piece floor was one of the most tedious parts of the conversion. :thumbsdown:
 
These may help, my battens are slightly different as have a Cambee bed frame which uses the existing lashing points. The bed can be removed from the rails without going under the van. 4F56BB96-13BD-4419-95CF-A631F66725C0.jpeg

5B298F3C-140B-4D7B-835F-E7A07E2DD1F0.jpeg

C6B24E0C-3D5E-447C-9BE8-34DB7AC71CB2.jpeg
 
Just glued mine with Sikaflex, no screws required.

Personally I would rather not have lots of screw holes in the floor with chance of corrosion. Each to their own though. Also be carful of tanks beneath if using screws.

I also put insulation right over the ply inserts and then screwed the floor ply to the battens. I used a single piece 12mm birch ply and there is no noise. Drilled and countersunk the top ply as there is only a small amount of grip on the battens without hitting the metal. Screws won’t self countersink with a small amount of grip on the threads.

Cutting the one piece floor was one of the most tedious parts of the conversion. :thumbsdown:

So I have glued in the 9mm ply with Sikaflex, the same as you.
It looks like you've then added insulation and screwed into your 9mm batons?
 
Yes just screwed the ply to the 9mm battens, for what I would have gained cutting the insulation round was pointless. Kombi step still fits spot on.

Insulation is specific floor stuff from Harrison’s stuck down with spray adhesive, Trim fix from memory. Very similar to dodo just not self adhesive and slightly more rigid foam core.
 
Is the Kombi step the same height as a panel van step?

Also what size wood screws did you use after countersinking the top 12mm ply?

thanks
 
Is the Kombi step the same height as a panel van step?

Also what size wood screws did you use after countersinking the top 12mm ply?

thanks

No Kombi step is deeper to allow for the fitted mat. Panel van one won’t fit over ply.

I used 20mm 4.0 screws from memory. :thumbsup:
 
Just a warning, you might have trouble getting a Kombi step to fit if you use 9mm batons, that gold stuff from Harrisons and then a 12mm floor.
 
Just a warning, you might have trouble getting a Kombi step to fit if you use 9mm batons, that gold stuff from Harrisons and then a 12mm floor.

Kombi was a perfect fit with 9mm battens, gold layer on top, 12mm ply then 2.5-3mm final floor covering. As shown above :thumbsup:
 
Ok confused now this chap seemed to have issues ?
Problems Fitting Kombi Sliding Door Step

Nice kitchen btw :thumbsup:

Don’t get me wrong it is a snug fit and it takes some care to get the clips to fit right but it does go. Your call though, insulating between would give you a bit more tolerance. I can only go on my own experience but if it hadn’t have been right or looked crooked I would have annoyed me and I would have changed it.
 
No Kombi step is deeper to allow for the fitted mat. Panel van one won’t fit over ply.

I used 20mm 4.0 screws from memory. :thumbsup:

I bought these do you think these will be OK?

I also have 9mm batons and 12mm ply.

20200712_174647.jpg
 
Absolutely fine but obviously the depth of the countersink needs to be spot on as either too high or too low and you're in trouble!
I wouldn't try to force the screw flush without a countersink as being a small diameter in thin wood it could just pull through and ruin the hole.
 
As @The Bear78 says make sure and pre countersink them just right and they will be spot on.

Maybe go and buy a normal size box of 200 though, I don’t think 20 will get you far.........;)
 
Thanks guys, yeah I will countersink them then. Would you drill down pilot holes too? Or just drive them through?

Yeah could do with a few more haha but 20 will be enough just for the floor.
 
Yes small pilot in the floor sheet only. I would say you want 50-60 for a one piece floor to take out any chance of movement. If you go three piece floor more fixings the better to keep the joints solid.
 
Yes small pilot in the floor sheet only. I would say you want 50-60 for a one piece floor to take out any chance of movement. If you go three piece floor more fixings the better to keep the joints solid.

Thanks for the info mate. This is my first time doing a floor. I have a one piece floor I was going to do a screw on each line I have marked on the cross. I have noticed a slight flex when I'm standing on the floor but I am 6ft and quite a heavy lump haha.
Will it help once its properly screwed down?
 
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