[Guide] How To Retrofit MFSW And Cruise Control To T6 Eu6 2019 Startline - Also Hacking DSG Paddles For CCS

T6_FunBus said:
All good, good luck with the fit :) MFSW changes the van loads, makes it so much nicer to drive and use, just had a thought actually about something, I’ll send you a pm.
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Does anyone know either the part number for the wire or the type of connector I need to crimp on the wire going from pin 11 on the T41 connector on the stalks to pin 1 of the T10 connector under the battery please? I have done all 3 connections at T41 and spliced in to the black wire of the light switch & pin 36 on BCM , but just can’t seem to find the right connector for pin 1 on T10 Under the battery in the engine bay. Any help greatly appreciated.
 
Matt H 1972 said:
Does anyone know either the part number for the wire or the type of connector I need to crimp on the wire going from pin 11 on the T41 connector on the stalks to pin 1 of the T10 connector under the battery please? I have done all 3 connections at T41 and spliced in to the black wire of the light switch & pin 36 on BCM , but just can’t seem to find the right connector for pin 1 on T10 Under the battery in the engine bay. Any help greatly appreciated.
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@Dav-Tec ?
 
Recepticles behind the stalk and in the bcm are mqs terminals you can get from RS Components (909-7808) same as the one for the ECU is a MCP 2.8 recepticle (726-8988)

You'll also need a set of crimp pliers that can crimp a open barrell type crimp
 
Dav-Tec said:
Recepticles behind the stalk and in the bcm are mqs terminals you can get from RS Components (909-7808) same as the one for the ECU is a MCP 2.8 recepticle (726-8988)

You'll also need a set of crimp pliers that can crimp a open barrell type crimp
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Thanks for the speedy reply. I have ordered a repair wire with the fitting already crimped on so I will solder this to the wire I have already run. I do have a new problem. The cable that goes from pin 10 of the stalks to pin 36 on the BCM, it says splice into the wire in pin 36, but pin 36 is empty on my one. Any ideas? Should I be putting in the wire to the empty slot or should I be splicing into another wire on the plug?IMG_3777.jpeg
 
Dav-Tec said:
No just pop it in 36
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This you won’t have one on 36 if its not already got cruise on stalk.

I applaud DIYers and enthusiasts for retro fitting ccs, but if anyone reads this thread and isn’t confident tackling wiring and stripping electrics apart, defo hit up one of the traders on here like @Dav-Tec, @Absolut5 etc depending on where you are based as you’ll get a proper install with coding and save a lot of potential pain :)
 
T6_FunBus said:
This you won’t have one on 36 if its not already got cruise on stalk.

I applaud DIYers and enthusiasts for retro fitting ccs, but if anyone reads this thread and isn’t confident tackling wiring and stripping electrics apart, defo hit up one of the traders on here like @Dav-Tec, @Absolut5 etc depending on where you are based as you’ll get a proper install with coding and save a lot of potential pain :)
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Thanks, I appreciate your response. I’m quite ok cutting, splicing & soldering wires and I appreciate I have asked a lot if questions on this thread. It just threw me when the guide says splice but there is no wire to splice onto. I can now put the repair wire into the empty terminal & yes I will be looking for a professional to do the coding. I know my limits & as there is so much that can go wrong with coding I wouldn’t attempt it. So if there is anyone in the West Midlands or more importantly near Dudley who would be interesting in Coding in the MFSW & cruise then happy to bring the van along to a professional.
 
Matt H 1972 said:
Thanks, I appreciate your response. I’m quite ok cutting, splicing & soldering wires and I appreciate I have asked a lot if questions on this thread. It just threw me when the guide says splice but there is no wire to splice onto. I can now put the repair wire into the empty terminal & yes I will be looking for a professional to do the coding. I know my limits & as there is so much that can go wrong with coding I wouldn’t attempt it. So if there is anyone in the West Midlands or more importantly near Dudley who would be interesting in Coding in the MFSW & cruise then happy to bring the van along to a professional.
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We're about an hour and a half up the road from you buddy can certainly sort you out
 
If i fit a MFSW, can i change the stalks to do away with the trip function and do it all through the MFSW?

Cheers Lee
 
Yes mate you can we do this all the time so install looks OEM, if yours is EU5 cruise on stalk with out trip and then with or without wiper depending on your spec if it's euro 6 engine cruise on wheel with new stalk no cruise no trip and again with or without wiper
 
Hi There,

What version of VCDS do you need to code the cruise on an 17 plate Eur6, I've been told i need HEX-NET?

Thanks

Lee
 
2017 will be fine with any modern version of vcds, hex-can or hex V2 or hex net but the latter is by far the most expensive and not required
Around 2019 (that late T6 and all 6.1) require V2 or hex net for full functionality
 
Wow what a write up !. I’ve read through just about all of the posts and tbh I got lost in there.. it would be good if this was in a video tutorial. All I know is I have a spare G7R Steering Wheel with PS, Stalks, column and key (of no use) giving me the taste of fitting a Flat Bottom Wheel to my T6 Startline although possibly not this one unless @Dav-Tec can make it work ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

IMG_1622.jpeg
 
1000007552.jpg

Does this loom look ok? It's 3C8971584F as referenced elsewhere in this thread, but I notice some of the colours are different. I guess that doesn't actually matter but wouldn't mind confirmation from the collective!
 
Right then, just completed this on my 2017 Startline and wanted to add my opinions.
  • I started at the steering wheel removing the wire from pin 11 and adding the new wires to 9,10 and 11. Simple
  • Fitted my new loom from a Polo to the airbag, all looked OK.
  • As previously mentioned access to the BCM is a pain, so out with the clocks and pull the white plug off the BCM up through the hole. Even with the clocks out its a tight squeeze and I was hoping there was no wire in pin 36 so I could just clip the new one in, but no there was already a wire in 36 meaning I had to cut and shut the new wire in. Not a lot of space for a soldering iron, I needed three hands. Not so simple.
  • Power from being the light switch. Dead easy
  • At this point I was feeling good about the job and preceded to run the new wire to the E box through a grommet in the bulkhead on the drivers side and across the engine bay to the passenger side, all neat and tidy cable ties along the way. Battery out, battery tray out, ring of bolts around the E box lid but couldn't remove the lid! Now normally I am the type of guy to use brute force over thought, but for a change I took to YouTube and found the little fuse box on the E box lid, open the lid of said fuse box and remove the 'E' shaped piece of plastic letting the fuse board move to the right and push into the E box.Lid off Hurrah!
  • At this point I was confronted by the contents of the E box in all its glory! Now lets say at this point I was glad I had already run the rest of the wiring in as if I had have started at the E box I think I would have taken one look and said "Sod this" and walked away.
  • T10 oh T10 you little bugger you! With a bit of patience (not one of my best qualities) I managed to get the bugger out and into a position to put the pin in slot 1. At this point being an octopus would have been handy (no pun intended) but no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the pin in the plug. I had been watching Dan Chambers video on YouTube of him fitting cruise to his T5 and I noticed when he did the T10 bit he moved the little coloured clip across allowing the pin in. I tried this and Hurrah new pin in slot 1! Plug locked off and plugged back in, E box built back up, battery re-fitted and van started to make sure it was all ok, It was.
  • Coding went better than I thought, it's been a few years since I used VCDS but managed it.
  • I went out for numerous test drives but the CCS didn't seem to be working, I was confident in my wiring but unsure if the airbag loom was correct. I checked over the airbag loom it looked correct, I had also bought the Kauftech wiring kit for this job so I planned on changing the loom out for this one after picking my son up from school.
  • On the journey to school I was playing with the CCS buttons and all of a sudden it started working, little light on the right hand clock saying CCS was active. I must confess on my previous test drives I think I wasn't using it correct. Basically now once the main CCS button is pressed that's CCS turned on and all I need to do is hit 'SET' or "RES' depending on the situation. It turns off when the clutch or brake is depressed and comes straight back on should I press 'RES' or "SET'
Like I say if I had started at the E box I think I would have given up at the first hurdle but I am glad it's complete and working. I wouldn't have had a cat in hells chance without this forum and and Dans YouTube video.

Thanks for everyones time and effort on here trying this long before I did, allowing nuggets like me to get it sorted.

Lee
 
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