Heater only working at maximum

Seems like it would be better to make a replacement using much higher rated resistors, these are clearly not up to the job and burn out.
I measured the resistors across from pointed end of fuse to pin3,2, and 1= Good resistor readings.
Measuring across the thermal fuse is open circuit. Will try a new fuse from ebay for about £2. I believe its a 192 degree unit at 15amp.
Original VW part £80, 2nd hand ebay about £45. £2 fuse gotta be worth a try.
Will try soldering after buffing away rust/ impurities- hopefully the solder wont melt when its on highest power. Will post results once done.
hopefully help others here if it works.
 
You're better off replacing the lot with a PWM controller, something like this:
I made an initial attempt at this a while ago but overcomplicated things by putting the unit in the same place as the resistor pack goes to cool the heat sink which required me to take out the blower motor cover which is an absolute PITA to get out. A small CPU fan would have worked fine, as would cutting a hole in the blower motor cover, as long as you make sure it's airtight when you're done.

I'm going to swap it out soon™ for one powered by a microcontroller (yes, I overcomplicated the installation and now I'm making it even more complicated). I can take some photos and do a little write up then, but the gist is that you replace the potentiometer with a small resistor pack hooked up to the same wires that go to the existing resistor pack and fan motor

It's significantly more energy efficient on low settings (I did this primarily so I could leave the blower sucking in fresh air in summer, running from my aux battery) but the real beauty is that you don't need to get the old resistor pack out, and I'm sure everyone that has tried to get those screws out will agree that's worth it!
 
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I measured the resistors across from pointed end of fuse to pin3,2, and 1= Good resistor readings.
Measuring across the thermal fuse is open circuit. Will try a new fuse from ebay for about £2. I believe its a 192 degree unit at 15amp.
Original VW part £80, 2nd hand ebay about £45. £2 fuse gotta be worth a try.
Will try soldering after buffing away rust/ impurities- hopefully the solder wont melt when its on highest power. Will post results once done.
hopefully help others here if it works.

ok guys, got the thermal fuse from interner for a couple quid. fitted and working fine. As suggested i used pliers as a heatsink so the fuse didnt melt while soldering. So snipped off old fuse, gently filed to fresh copper on both studs, tinned the studs, tinned the new fuse- holding with pliers- soldered fuse in place again holding with pliers. Tested the fuse each time i used heat on it. Jobs done and working fine. I measured each resistor= all good. hopefully all pics will load showing my sequence. Again hoping to help others save a buck or 2.
 
ok guys, got the thermal fuse from interner for a couple quid. fitted and working fine. As suggested i used pliers as a heatsink so the fuse didnt melt while soldering. So snipped off old fuse, gently filed to fresh copper on both studs, tinned the studs, tinned the new fuse- holding with pliers- soldered fuse in place again holding with pliers. Tested the fuse each time i used heat on it. Jobs done and working fine. I measured each resistor= all good. hopefully all pics will load showing my sequence. Again hoping to help others save a buck or 2.

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thanks to all ,, just repaired my T6 fan thermal cut out and couldnt have done it without this forum :)
It's annoying having to fix an issue that (IMO) should not happen, I too had to change mine some time ago (touch wood all's working fine at the moment).
Although I fitted a genuine VW replacement which came with a 2 year warranty I always think twice on how long I run the heater on anything other than the max setting in case it fails again!
 
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